James Joyce lived in Trieste for 11 years and, always able to spend money faster than he could earn, scrounge or borrow it, he was the tenant from hell and moved flat many times. Now each of the places he lived (and some others, such as his workplaces or the hospital where his daughter was born) is adorned with a little plaque and if you string them together, they make an excellent ramble around the city. If you were very determined you could probably do the whole itinerary in a day, but in the various neighbourhoods you will come across enough things of interest that you can easily fill up two days or more. Cafes, pizza shops, restaurants and bars have a useful habit of cropping up just when you need them.

www.univ.trieste.it/~nirdange/netjoyce/e_netjoyce/e_index.html

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From one of the piers in the centre of Trieste's waterfront, little ferries chug across the gulf to the fishing village of Muggia. Fantastically well preserved old village centre, generally sleepy atmosphere (well, I was there on a Sunday) and no shortage of small and authentic eating places.

www.triestetrasporti.it/ttspa/cms/002/html/modules.php?op=modload&name=PostWrap&file=index&page=/ttspa/pages/ita/pages/indexsermar.php&height=800

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