Italy
This restaurant was located several blocks back from the Rialto Bridge and enroute to the grocery store. I passed it several nights and then a young man who worked there assured me a gluten free and garlic free spaghetti. He said they had served gluten free before to people who were sensitive. I took a leap of trust and ordered. The spaghetti came loaded with tomato sauce and veggies, and was delicious. One of the best meals I had in the 10 days I was there and will certainly go back.
I enjoyed the decor and also had free wi fi while I dined with a glass of wine.
www.ristorante-sabrina.it
Castello 5471, Salizada S. Lio
+39 (0)412411003
Google map: bit.ly/SSw0nc
A tasty Venetian snack of freshly made bites of bread topped with different variations of fish paste/cheese/onions/peppers/anchovies served with an 'ombre' or a glass of wine. The best places to go are off the beaten track. My favorite is Vini Al Bottegon otherwise known as Cantine del Vini gia Schiavi, a tiny standing room only wine bar, where you crowd around the food bar and wait for madame to patiently pick out the cicchetti you fancy. Each slice with it's topping is a reasonable one or two Euros and you ask for a full plate of five or just the number you want. Standing room only and a fab atmosphere!
992 Dorsoduro, Venezia, VE 30123 30123
+39(0)41 523 0034
Google map: bit.ly/ygctDw
This splendid 10-room gallery on the Grand Canal - inexplicably absent from many online Venice guides - houses a delightful collection of 19th and 20th century art (as well as a smaller Oriental Art Museum on the top floor). While the great majority of the works are by Italian artists possibly less well-known to a general audience, some big international names are also represented, with fine pieces by Bonnard, Chagall, de Chirico, Kandinsky, Klimt, Mirò, Tanguy.
capesaro.visitmuve.it/en/home/
Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna
Santa Croce 2076, 30135 Venezia
+39 041 721127
Google map: bit.ly/AlJDDG
This splendid 10-room gallery on the Grand Canal - inexplicably absent from many online Venice guides - houses a delightful collection of 19th and 20th century art (as well as a smaller Oriental Art Museum on the top floor). While the great majority of the works are by Italian artists possibly less well-known to a general audience, some big international names are also represented, with fine pieces by Bonnard, Chagall, de Chirico, Kandinsky, Klimt, Mirò, Tanguy.
capesaro.visitmuve.it/en/home/
Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna
Santa Croce 2076, 30135 Venezia
+39 041 721127
Vaparetto Number 1 to San Stae
Google map: bit.ly/ziJtvK
We wandered round the streets alleyways and canals. Venice is a great city to get lost in. Taking in the history and architecture while listening to the sound of opera coming from the shops. Stopping now and then for chicheti (bar snacks) or to share a deliciously thick Italian hot chocolate.
We eventually got to our destination, Rialto, and then it started to snow. Venice is romantic at anytime but in the winter it’s never bettered.
venice-tourism.com/
Google map: bit.ly/xXNiCl
There’s a secret that I’m hesitant to share as the rest of the year Venice is always overflowing with tourists, but at Christmas it’s a real joy. Not crowded, but enough people around to give it a magical Venetian atmosphere. You’ll stumble upon little Christmas markets in the squares, admire the crafted Murano glass tree baubles glistening from shop windows, and relish the beautiful fresh foods near the Rialto. This time of year there are no queues for the Acadamia Gallery or the Saint Mark's Basilica and we’ve even been in the vast council chambers of the Doge’s Palace with just us and the security guard. It’s cold there this time of year – but often with bright blue skies during the day, so a good coat is an essential. Then, by a tick of the Torre dell'Orologio clock, it’s time to ring in the New Year with the annual huge celebration and party in St. Marks Square. A great way to see Venice full of people again.
Google map: bit.ly/umO3Wi
A pleasure to read with no lists of "the best 10" places to see but lovingly based on a lifetime of walking around Venice. It will take you to where Canaletto stood to paint famous scenes, obscure alleys with Byzantine remains and will provide knowledge of things you will not otherwise know, e.g. the rio used by Casanova to asignations at Palazzo Bragadin, as well as giving a more thorough guide to both Venice's usual and to its beautiful but less visited trasures than any other book.
One of my favourite restaurants in Venice, Antiche Carampane, is one of the city’s most authentic – as the sign says outside the restaurant, you’ll find "No pizza, no lasagne, no menù turistico” here. Instead, expect stunning Venetian cuisine based on the freshest of seasonal produce. Owner Francesco and his chefs Lele and Adriano, who have worked at the restaurant for 20 years and 15 years respectively, head to the Rialto’s pescheria (fish market) every morning to seek out the finest seafood that local fishmongers have bought from Tronchetto’s wholesale market earlier that morning. Secreted away down a difficult-to-find lane in the San Polo sestiere, Antiche Carampane’s location is such that there’s little chance of anyone accidentally stumbling upon it and yet tables inside the atmospheric restaurant and on the terrace outside are generally always taken. Phone ahead to make a reservation. Service is warm, relaxed, and informed – order whatever they suggest – and the food is simply fantastic. My favourite dish is the crunchy fritto misto or frittura mista (fried seafood), served in a brown paper cone to absorb the cooking oil - washed down with a wine from the Veneto of course!
Rio Tera de la Carampane, off Ramo del Tamossi, San Polo
+39 (0) 41 524 0165 antichecarampane.com/
Google map: bit.ly/hxQ3sB
Tucked under the arcades behind the souvenir stalls at the Rialto, on the market side of the bridge, Pied à Terre sells handsome, handmade, brocade, silk and velvet slippers in bright colours. Inspired by 18th century Venetian styles – my favourites are the Venetian and Sabot designs – along with the famous Furlane slippers, these unique take-homes originated in the early 20th century in the Friuli Venezia Giulia countryside. There, the peasant-farmers couldn’t afford leather footwear, so they recycled rags, jute bags and old bicycle tyres to make their shoes. Following World War Two, the women, desperate to earn some income to feed their families, travelled to Venice to sell their shoes. The story goes that the gondoliers were the first to adopt the shoes after realizing their soft sole wouldn’t scratch their boats, and soon after everyone had a pair. Pied à Terre makes their soles from old tyres and uses rich (often recycled) fabrics for the uppers. You can also take your own material to the shop and order a bespoke pair.
www.piedaterre-venice.com/
60, S. Polo, Rialto, Venice, Italy
+39 041 5285513
Google map: bit.ly/dSAjE0
Bookbinder Paolo Olbi is one of Venice’s last great artisans. He has two lovely shops on Campo Santa Maria Nova and Calle della Mandola where he sells his beautiful handmade note pads, address books, photo albums, stationery, and business cards. If you don’t find Paolo at work in the backroom, embossing patterns into the leather covers of notebooks, he’s probably at his atmospheric workshop in the Castello, with his typesetter Beppi, where he welcomes interested visitors. We visited one Saturday morning, and he spent a couple of hours taking us through the fascinating process, from how they create the wood plates for the book-covers, inspired by old Venetian designs, to binding the books by hand. I already purchased half a dozen notebooks to give to friends, but he gave us a money-holder as a gift and took us for a glass of wine at the local bar to thank us for our interest. That’s Venetians for you!
Calle della Mandola, San Marco 3653, Venice: +39(0)41 528 5025
olbi.atspace.com/index_eng.htm
In Venice, Countess Enrica Rocca, known as ‘the cooking countess', runs cooking courses unlike any others.
Enrica meets her students (five of us in total) at the Rialto Bridge and after quick introductions at a local café takes us to the nearby markets to teach us about the ingredients, where and how to buy them, and how to treat the produce. Next, in true Venetian style, we take our shopping bags full of fresh seafood to a local bacari (Venetian bar) for a post shopping spritz (Aperol, prosecco, orange slice) and a lesson in Veneto wine from Lorenzo of the wine shop MilleVini.
Spirits buoyed, we stroll to Enrica’s light-filled home in the Dorsoduro for a full day of cooking, eating, drinking, and conversation. It's casual and relaxed, like spending a day hanging out in the kitchen with friends, yet still we come away having learned a tremendous amount. Enrica thinks that most cooking courses are too serious and that they should be fun. They are and this was!
Enrica Rocca Cooking School
www.enricarocca.com
The Venice Carnival is a photographer's dream with figures dressed in costumes ranging from the absolutely beautiful to the bizarre.
Most people go to St Mark's Square to take pictures on the last days of Carnival. There are many fantastic images to be found but the square gets incredibly crowded and shots have to be taken quickly and often onlookers get in the way. My tip therefore is to move away from the square to other, quieter locations where you will encounter some of the more professional models who will be prepared to give you much more time to pose them and to compose your pictures.
The best time to try is late morning and promising locations are outside the Salute Church, the walk between Accademia and S. Toma vaporetto stops (taking in Campo S. Baranaba) and the walk between San Marco and Campo Santo Stefano. Indeed, many of the main piazzas and campos are a good bet. This is a great opportunity to get away from the crowds and work with some good amateur models.
To take photographs simply ask politely and if language is a problem, indicating the camera is usually enough to start taking pictures.
Great family accommodation just moments from the Accademia and vapparetto. Rooms located in a 15th Century building. We had a gorgeous quad room, comfy beds and a wonderful breakfast included.
www.palazzoguardivenice.com
Dorsoduro 995, 30123 Venice, Italy
+39 041 2960725
Beautiful, romantic folk take note, the Rialto Bridge is an iconic pedestrian bridge that belongs to the medieval era. It spans over the Grand Canal and is acknowledged as the hub for commercial activities for centuries. You can even find the old stores, jewelry shops and various small counters still running their business. Lots of shops to buy your loved one a special present.
The enticing Rialto Bridge is the oldest and the most fascinating bridge in this beautiful city. The overpass consists of magnificent pillars and amazingly crafted arches. You can witness the stunning view of the Grand Canal while shopping and snuggling up to your lovely partner.
www.comune.venezia.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/EN/IDPagina/1
Google map:bit.ly/bqpjC9
This is an amazing little B&B in the Santa Croce district: it's a quiet part of town but in easy walking distance of pretty much anywhere you'll want to go. The beautiful rooms are very reasonably priced for Venice, breakfasts are great and the owners are absolutely lovely.
Santa Croce, 1725 Venice,
Salizada del Fontego dei Turchi
+39 041 2759177
www.casangiorgio.com
Fax +39 041 795542
www.casangiorgio.com
We stayed here for a week,the owner was very helpful, met us from the bus, made sure we knew how everything worked in the apartment and where the most convenient shops, restaurants, etc, were located (very close).He also allowed us to leave our cases in the apartment on our final day, when we left Venice in the evening. We liked the view of the canal bridge from the windows, with all its comings and goings. Cheap,in quiet zone and three minutes' walk from Piazzale Roma or train station, all the main tourist attractions were near and could be reached by foot or waterbus stop (very close).
www.joinvenice.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/38ouupg
Just stayed here for a couple of nights. A really convenient location, just a few minutes walk from Piazzale Romana where the airport buses arrive and opposite the train station, but down a quiet back street in a residential area. OK, it's not central but the location made it so easy to get in and out of Venice. It's no problem to wander into the centre from there in 30 minutes, or the Nr 2 vaporetto takes you to San Marco in 20 minutes as you're at the head of the Grand Canal. The other side of the Canal, the Station side was full of hotels and restaurants and packed with tourists, this side was quiet and pleasant.The staff were extremely helpful and recommended good restaurants and bars, breakfast was great and the hotel itself is very attractive.
www.albergomarin.it
Google map: tinyurl.com/36y85eb
Some of the greatest take away pizzas in Venice are to be found here at MauMa’s. The shop is just to the right, straight across the little bridge to the east of the Campo dei Frari (in front of the Frari Church).
It has no official sign – we only found out its real name after talking to the exceedingly friendly owners, Mauro and Massimo. Their English is limited but it’s possible to get by without having Italian.
It’s a tiny place with a shutter front which, when open, houses an appetizing display of bulging calzone and pizza slices. Calzone are around three Euros and pizzas start from four Euros.
Both are very generous; with a thin, crispy crust and delightfully herby and flavourful tomato sauce.
The place is tiny with no seating so everything is to take away. Buy a soda while Massimo prepares your pizza to order before your eyes; in the light summer months you could just take it across the bridge into the campo to enjoy.
There are no official business hours (whenever the guys feel like opening up!) but it’s usually open every day except Wednesdays.
Undoubtedly some of the best (and cheapest) pizza in Venice. I’ll definitely be going back next time I visit the city, as much to chat to the lovely owners as to sample the mouth-watering fare.
Campo dei Frari, San Polo 30125, Venice
Google map: tinyurl.com/ybmhccm
Flats in Venice is a website with a wide choice of accommodation in Venice Itlay. Private apartments to B&Bs, hotels etc all personally checked.
Amazing little eatery near the Jewish quarter. Moody chef Francesco Zorzetto turns out amazing hot and cold local seafood delicacies.
Best thing to do is to simply ask for a few of the chef's recommendations -as we did - and you're in for a treat.
Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, just off the Strada Nuova
Venice, Italy
Tel: +39 041 52 28 258
bit.ly/12oRlt
Google map: tinyurl.com/ybbheu8
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