- Venice
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Italy
One of my favourite restaurants in Venice, Antiche Carampane, is one of the city’s most authentic – as the sign says outside the restaurant, you’ll find "No pizza, no lasagne, no menù turistico” here. Instead, expect stunning Venetian cuisine based on the freshest of seasonal produce. Owner Francesco and his chefs Lele and Adriano, who have worked at the restaurant for 20 years and 15 years respectively, head to the Rialto’s pescheria (fish market) every morning to seek out the finest seafood that local fishmongers have bought from Tronchetto’s wholesale market earlier that morning. Secreted away down a difficult-to-find lane in the San Polo sestiere, Antiche Carampane’s location is such that there’s little chance of anyone accidentally stumbling upon it and yet tables inside the atmospheric restaurant and on the terrace outside are generally always taken. Phone ahead to make a reservation. Service is warm, relaxed, and informed – order whatever they suggest – and the food is simply fantastic. My favourite dish is the crunchy fritto misto or frittura mista (fried seafood), served in a brown paper cone to absorb the cooking oil - washed down with a wine from the Veneto of course!
Rio Tera de la Carampane, off Ramo del Tamossi, San Polo
+39 (0) 41 524 0165 antichecarampane.com/
Google map: bit.ly/hxQ3sB
In Venice, Countess Enrica Rocca, known as ‘the cooking countess', runs cooking courses unlike any others.
Enrica meets her students (five of us in total) at the Rialto Bridge and after quick introductions at a local café takes us to the nearby markets to teach us about the ingredients, where and how to buy them, and how to treat the produce. Next, in true Venetian style, we take our shopping bags full of fresh seafood to a local bacari (Venetian bar) for a post shopping spritz (Aperol, prosecco, orange slice) and a lesson in Veneto wine from Lorenzo of the wine shop MilleVini.
Spirits buoyed, we stroll to Enrica’s light-filled home in the Dorsoduro for a full day of cooking, eating, drinking, and conversation. It's casual and relaxed, like spending a day hanging out in the kitchen with friends, yet still we come away having learned a tremendous amount. Enrica thinks that most cooking courses are too serious and that they should be fun. They are and this was!
Enrica Rocca Cooking School
www.enricarocca.com
Some of the greatest take away pizzas in Venice are to be found here at MauMa’s. The shop is just to the right, straight across the little bridge to the east of the Campo dei Frari (in front of the Frari Church).
It has no official sign – we only found out its real name after talking to the exceedingly friendly owners, Mauro and Massimo. Their English is limited but it’s possible to get by without having Italian.
It’s a tiny place with a shutter front which, when open, houses an appetizing display of bulging calzone and pizza slices. Calzone are around three Euros and pizzas start from four Euros.
Both are very generous; with a thin, crispy crust and delightfully herby and flavourful tomato sauce.
The place is tiny with no seating so everything is to take away. Buy a soda while Massimo prepares your pizza to order before your eyes; in the light summer months you could just take it across the bridge into the campo to enjoy.
There are no official business hours (whenever the guys feel like opening up!) but it’s usually open every day except Wednesdays.
Undoubtedly some of the best (and cheapest) pizza in Venice. I’ll definitely be going back next time I visit the city, as much to chat to the lovely owners as to sample the mouth-watering fare.
Campo dei Frari, San Polo 30125, Venice
Google map: tinyurl.com/ybmhccm
Fantastic restaurant and bar, very popular and full of locals so get there early. Lovely atmosphere, good food, reasonable prices, limited but satisfying menu including vegitarian option. Proper Venetian feel with uncomplicated service - not fleecing tourists.
Calle del Pistor 3912, Near Ca' d'Oro, Cannaregio
Fab takeaway pizzas from this little shop on Calle Mondo Nuovo in Castello. I'm not a great fan of the food in Venice - pretty overpiced and not really very good - apart from a little fish restaurant I know ...
But Cip Ciap is great if you want a quick bite on the run. You can buy by the slice or a whole pizza. I totally recommend the calzone con prosciutto.
Calle Mondo Nuovo, just off Piazza Santa Maria Formosa
Do Mori is simply not to be missed. It's a little hard to find but is near the Rialto market and worth the hunt. You should only find locals here - it's where the market traders go from mid-morning for their 'ombra' - a glass of wine and perhaps some ciccheti (little snacks).
There are no tables here and no waiter service, so simply go up to the counter of the little dark bar, choose your wine, choose some snacks and enjoy a taste of real Venice. Don't expect service with a smile but do expect to feel part of the real city.
San Polo 429 - Entrances on Calle Galiazza and Calle Do Mori, In San Polo, Venice
Osteria Vivaldi was the site of our first dinner in Venice. It was just around the corner from our hotel in San Polo, and there were several families dining there. The tantalising menu is online. The Risotto di pesce was a highlight! It was a great restaurant and not very expensive. I'd definitely go there again.
www.osteria-vivaldi.com
Osteria Vivaldi
san polo 1457
Venice
Veneto
30125
Osteria Vivaldi is located on the Calle della Madonnetta in San Polo. You can reach it from the Rialto vaporetto platforms or, more conveniently, from the No. 1 vaporetto's San Silvestro stop
I asked the guy at my hotel for a good restaurant, a place where locals go to, and he sent me to this place. It's near Rialto.
To be honest, we saw the queue and for a while we thought of not going in, but we waited (not for long, the service is very quick, maybe too quick) and the place was great. Fantastic food, good prices and a lot of locals.
Calle d. Madonna,San Polo 594
www.ristoranteallamadonna.com/
Popping into this cheap little Venice restaurant near the train station on the way home bought an unusual surprise.
I've been told since that it's a chain but it's not like places in England. The dishes are simple but tasty and my pasta was cooked fresh to order while I watched.
The salad was also good quality and (another surprise!) we had a reasonably priced beer to accompany it too.
Lista di Spagna, Canneregio 124
A Venice restaurant with a proper city feel! This eatery is trendy and fun – and a welcome change from the tourist haunts that dominate the city.
The food was interesting - as well as the usual pasta there were dishes like beef with nuts and plum - and also quite reasonable. I think it was about 30 euros for three courses.
We ended up staying here all night (with another bottle of wine, of course) as there was live music and were surprised to find ourselves staggering back to our hostel at nearly 1am!
Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio 2540
A fabulous 'garden' restaurant with a varied menu and some lovely people. We ate the best fish dishes in the lagoon here.
www.villa600.it
villa6000@libero.it
tel.e fax 041 52 72 254
Do Mori is simply not to be missed. It's a little hard to find, but is near the Rialto market, and worth the hunt. You should only find locals here - it's where the market traders go from mid-morning for their 'ombra' - a glass of wine and perhaps some ciccheti (little snacks).
There are no tables here and no waiter service, so simply go up to the counter of the little dark bar, choose your wine, choose some snacks and enjoy a taste of real Venice. Don't expect service with a smile, but do expect to feel part of the real city.
San Polo 429 - Entrances on Calle Galiazza and Calle Do Mori, In San Polo, Venice
Venice is magical, there's no denying it, but space on the main islands is at a premium and therefore accommodation tends to be very pricey. On our last visit we chose to stay on the island of Murano, and rented an apartment from a local there. It cost us less than £30 per night (for the apt, not per person!) and it was fabulous. For a start, the vaporettos (water buses) run all night, and it only takes 15 mins to get to Venice on the boat, on the most beautiful route you could imagine, past the stunning cemetery island. Secondly, although it is home to plenty of tourists during the daytime, (visiting the glass factories), they are absent in the morning and evening, and you really feel like a member of the local community. There are lovely grocery shops, a supermarket, and a fruit boat - to buy all your fresh food. And there are some great local restaurants to eat in should you not feel like venturing over onto mainland Venice for dinner. It's also really easy to get to from either airport, as the boats run straight there from Piazzale Roma. It's the perfect counterpoint to the chaos of Venice's main islands. Finally, it's also closer to Burano, the beautiful island nearby, which is home of the amazing restaurant Il Gatto Nero. Do it. You won't regret it.
Murano next to venice - go hunting on google, you'll find accomodation!
La Caravella is a historic restaurant in Venice, the decor recalls the famous vessel, but with an elegant touch. In summer the restaurant serves its delicious dishes in a typical Venetian courtyard. It's a first class restaurant with great dishes (turbot, filet of beef, risotto, pasta) and wide selection of wines. Cost is not obviously on the cheap side, however it is among the less expensive, considering restaurants of the same level, or even of a lower consideration! Remember to make a reservation especially on weekends.
La Caravella is on via XXII Marzo,
refer to its website
www.restaurantlacaravella.com/
One of the best bar-restaurants in Venice at San Marco.
Rio Tera degli Assassini
San Marco Venice
0039415287986
Venice Cream is a gelato shop located right on the canal between the Arsenale boat stop and San Marco square. You should avoid this shop at all costs.
I requested a taste of the gelato & was handed "chocolate" gelato that was terrible. When I requested a different flavor, the owner became obviously upset, and very reluctantly gave me my taste of mint gelato. Just as I was about to have a taste, I glanced in the case & noticed numerous bugs & flies on the front edge of the cooler. When I pointed them out to him, he became angry & began to yell at me in Italian. I was amazed that he would be angry with me when his shop clearly had major cleanliness issues. Nonetheless, he continued to yell and waved me out of his shop, still yelling as I walked away.
For cleanliness sake, I would avail myself of one of the dozens of other gelato shops around Venice. So many of them are wonderful (and CLEAN) and the people are very friendly. Unfortunately, Venice Cream is not one of them.
On the canal between Arsenale boat stop & San Marco square, near the Metropole Hotel.
Attached to the La Calcina pensione this wonderful restaurant has great food at a fair price, which is not bad in Venice particularly given the view here. A good mix of meals and light snacks and good for vegetarians.
In Dorsoduro by the Zattere vaporetto stop.
The island of Torcello, 45 minutes from Venice by Vaporetto, is where Venice began. A perfect antidote to palaces and high renaissance art.
This tiny windswept island in the marshes was the place where the first settlers, fleeing from Attila the Hun, found refuge and laid the foundations for the mighty Venetian republic. Incredibly it once had 20,000 inhabitants before malaria took hold. Now all that's left is a wonderful church with fantastic 11th century mosaics and a bell tower which gives stunning views over allotments, marshes and the distant towers and domes of Venice.
There's also a rather fine restaurant Al Ponte del Diavolo, serving (very) local rabbit and fine pasta with wild fennel sauce (on the day we went). A perfect place for a spring lunch and to reflect on the beginnings and end of the Venetian republic!
Take the Vaporetto (LN route) from Fondamente Nuove stop. Change at Burano for shuttle to Torcello.
This cosy wine house five minutes from the Rialto serves dozens of wonderful wines by the glass, starting at about 1.5 euros for a glass of prosecco.
Also serves delicious bar food - when it's gone, it's gone. The atmosphere is that of a private party - you can spill out on to the street or eat at little drop-down ledges, built into the walls of the shop.
A great alternative to an expensive and indifferent meal in a tourist restaurant.
Cannaregio 5984 / Salizada San Canciano
I recommend this restaurant if you fancy a Fawlty Towers experience. I went there with my family which included my two young nephews. The place itself is quite posh, however the mature waiter lost the plot.
We tried to order two Margherita pizzas with ham on. This sent the waiter into a rage with him srcatching frantically into his writing pad. He pronouced loudly he had a table of 20 booked which were coming any minute. We all felt intimidated by his behaviour.
After being told another pizza was off the menu we quickly left. Service with a smile it wasn't!
Calle Priuli, 106 Venice. Tel 041.8947958
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