If you're taking a stroll (La Passegiatta - you'd better be expensively dressed) along the promenade at Viareggio, you absolutely must try some of the (takeaway only) pizza from La Rusticanella.

If you're walking from the south side, the harbour (darsena), then you've gone too far if you reach the gap in the front and the clock tower - it's just before there. Easy to miss, it's small and usually has a large crowd outside. Fight your way to the front, see what's available and order by the portion. Specialities include the potato pizza, the margherita is splendid, but my all time favourite is the onion pizza (cipolla).

A glass of beer from one of the bars to the right (they own the seating outside, but as long as you buy drinks you're welcome to eat your pizza there) and you're sorted. Not to be missed!

Viale Margherita 80
Viareggio (on the promenade)

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