- Kingston
- (11)
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Jamaica
It's great fun, with a Caribbean feel, and the locals are really friendly. There's lots of music, dancing, and the people are always happy.
Lime Tree Farm, in the Blue Mountains and overlooking Lime Tree village, is a working coffee farm with 3 simple but luxurious cottages (huge bed, coffee machine, bathroom, view to die for). You eat (delicious and generous home-cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner) on the veranda (view to die for) with the farm's husband and wife team, Charlie and Suzie, whose relaxed, friendly and interesting stories will keep you entertained and ensure you'll feel right at home.
We saw birdlife galore (most often right outside our room), went for invigorating walks in the surrounding hills that were lush and in flower (and where the friendly residents of the village will point and often accompany you back on the right path should you get a tad disorientated).
Honestly, it was my third time to Jamaica and this was the best place i've been yet (including the beautiful beaches). Charlie or Leroy will take you on walks in the surrounding hills and mountains, or leave you to it, sort out day trips to the beach or to the botanic gardens and the whole family will just make you feel so relaxed you'll be sure to love it. And even the profits from the bar go to 2 local schools!
If you are looking for more from Jamaica than the usual all-inclusive, beach stuff and fancy relaxing among the hummingbirds with an occasional visit from Zulu (their huge but very friendly black dog) then make sure a stay at Lime Tree is included in your trip. Did I mention the view is to die for??? Oh, and the coffee, obviously!
Forrespark Lodge is situated on a coffee plantation with wonderful valley and Blue Mountain views, perfect for sunrises and sunsets. Exotic flora and fauna are a delight and on an early morning bird watching walks you will spy many species.
Bring your own G&T for there is no bar, but the verandah is the perfect place to enjoy a cocktail before dinner and observe the tiny Doctor Bird with its' long tail feathers, hover at the sugared water feeder. At dinner, which is al fresco, you may be joined by the large Jamaican Owl, who will sit on the tree branch above your table and hiss.
A short stroll along the road is the JABLUM coffee factory where local growers bring their beans for processing. The guided tour is casual but very interesting. Every bean is graded by hand! A calm and picturesque corner of the island well worth at least a two night stay.
A journey from Kingston to Forrespark Lodge in Mavis Bank cost about £80 in Feb 2006, and took 2 and a half hours to travel 60 miles, but worth it.
A mobile phone (adequately topped up if 'Pay as You Go') is a vital piece of kit for the independent traveller in Jamaica. Signals in even the remotest of places ease co-ordinating taxi journey plans.
JUTA Taxi's are quite safe and a very reliable mode of travelling, they might seem a bit on the expensive side and journeys on the poor road infrastructure are slow, but at least you are contributing directly to the local economy.
Drive just a few miles out of Kingston and you find yourself climbing into the beautiful Blue Mountains. Producer of some of the finest coffee in the world. Setting for spectacular mountain views. And, especially at the weekend, scene of countless dance parties. You can hear the music throbbing from miles away. You can smell the party atmosphere too when you get a bit closer.
For a blast of authentic Jamaican chaos, catch a minibus taxi and ride for a few miles. There are no stops – you just flag one down, cram yourself in, and hold on tight.
Lots of people will tell you it’s too dangerous or difficult to drive around Jamaica, but take no notice. Watch out for the pot holes and goats, and keep one hand on the horn at all times, and you’ll be fine. Road signs are almost non-existent, but there’s always someone around who’ll point you the right way. Island Car Rentals are far and away the best company to deal with.
17 Antigua Avenue, Kingston
Tel: 876 929 5875
www.islandcarrentals.com
This hotel is too rarefied to really feel like Jamaica, but the view from its terrace out over Kingston is worth making a trip fior. The road can be pretty perilous, and often flooded, but it takes you into the foothills of the Blue Mountains, and lush tropical rainforest.
Either go at dusk, for a sunset cocktail, so you can see the lights of Kingston come out beneath you like upside down stars. Or go for Sunday brunch, and get a rare glimpse of the Kingston elite at play.
Irish Town, St Andrew, 876- 944-8400
About a 50 minute drive from Kingston.
www.islandoutpost.com/strawberry_hill
Take a break from reggae and dancehall for one night and have dinner in this Louisiana-flavoured jazz bar in what used to be a private house, within an old walled garden. It’s a little Bohemian oasis in downtown Kingston, with live music and poetry readings at night, and an antique vinyl collection all over the walls.
21 Braemar Avenue, Kingston
Tel: 1 876 978 6091
www.redbonesbluescafe.com
If you have to stay in Kingston (and I recommend you try not to since other parts of Jamaica are so much nicer) then Red Bones is easily the best restaurant I found. Good food, arty atmosphere, friendly people...etc
Get out of the all-inclusives and take advantage of the Jamaican tourist board's Meet-the-people programme. It's a free service that matches you with locals who share a common profession, hobby or interest, who will then show you some true Jamaican hospitality. I ended up at a multi-generation housewarming party in the Kingston suburbs.
You sign up online at
meetthepeople.visitjamaica.com
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
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