An excellent modern hotel in the Shidome district, with staggering views in every direction, and extremely helpful staff, this hotel is close to metro and JR stations, and within walking distance of the fish market, Ginza, and numerous reasonably priced restaurants. The hotel itself has a Michelin starred restaurant serving traditional Japanese food.

Our only quibble was that like many things in Japan the entrance to the hotel is so understated that it is easily missed, so it is rather hard to find when arriving jet-lagged from the train. Limousine bus would be better, as it goes straight there.

Shiodome Media Tower, Minato-Ku, near JR Shimbashi station. All details and a good map are on hotel website www.parkhoteltokyo.com

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If you want a good ryokan experience in Tokyo, this is the place. It's in the quiet, pedestrianised temple area of Asakusa, close to the markets and metro station. There are western rooms too, but if you want a more authentic Japanese experience you will get bamboo floor matting, paper shutters, unbelievably cosy futon beds, kimono robes, a low table and cushions and fresh green tea and rice crackers every day. Even the Japanese rooms have a small western-style bathroom with a shower, and the ryokan serves a traditional Japanese breakfast. The highlight however, are the hot baths on the fifth floor. Steam your travel troubles away while you lie back and gaze out over the golden illuminated temples and night skyline. Very friendly and helpful staff too.

phone 81-3-3843-2345
fax 81-3-3843-2348
address 1-31-11Asakusa Taito-ku Tokyo 111-0032 Japan
E-mail: info@shigetsu.com
Web site: www.shigetsu.com

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Often overlooked by western tourists, Manga cafes are a godsend to the poor and weary traveller. At large branches of "Manboo", for example, you can relax in a private booth equipped with a broadband-connected PC, a television, a games console and a comfortable reclining chair, all for a reasonable 200-300 yen per hour (about half that for girls). A vast library of games and comics (the former very often being perfectly accessible to non-Japanese speakers) is provided for patrons to use at their leisure, along with drinks, snacks, and showers for those planning to stick around. Indeed, a good 24-hour manga cafe is a more comfortable, more entertaining and above all cheaper place to spend the night than an overpriced capsule hotel. You can even get a two-person booth if you're travelling with a partner.

All over Tokyo; the best-equipped cafes tend to be found in Shinjuku and Shibuya, but smaller locations are as common as Karaoke boxes.

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Kimi ryokan is a 4-storey, old-style Japanese inn, complete with well-lit darkwood hallways, small tatami mat rooms, and a friendly bearded owner, who is constantly polishing the wooden floors, all in the heart of Tokyo! The rooms may be functional (small), but they are very clean. The shower stalls may be communal, but they appear to be made of marble, whilst the deep wooden Japanese bath on the 1st floor is a must for soothing tired limbs in the evening. Don't forget to take your sake in with you! In 2003, singles cost 4,000yen, doubles 7,000-8,000. Definitely book in advance. They speak English.

Kimi ryokan is in Ikebukuro, 5 mins from the underground stn. Tel. 03 3971 3766.

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What else combines the privacy of a Swiss bank, the convenience of a public toilet and the gaudiness of Hollywood?

Love hotels offer beds (sometimes of the revolving or water variety) at about 4,000 yen for a couple of hours' "rest" or around 8,000 yen for the whole night. At the most basic, the automated mini-bars offer condoms and vibrators along with pep drinks and beer.

The more outlandish hotels offer steamy jungle rooms, S&M dungeons and even a full-scale replica of Queen Elizabeth's coronation couch.

Usually found close to entertainment districts or by the side of motorways and are easily spotted by their outlandish exteriors, which include such features as fairy castle ramparts, replicas of the statue of liberty and mock Spanish galleons.

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Sawanoya Ryokan is a family-run budget ryokan/hotel in the Shitamachi area of Tokyo, near Ueno Park. Single rooms are available, at around 5,000 yen per night, double rooms at under 10,000 yen. It's a ryokan, so you sleep on a futon on the floor, and in most cases the bath and toilets are shared. (There are a couple of en suite double rooms.) This is where I always stayed in Tokyo before moving here; it's a budget place but there is absolutely nothing wrong with it; it's clean, the food is good, the location is convenient, and the owners are friendly and speak enough English to communicate. There are also some nice touches, like the wooden trays that breakfast comes on, that give it a bit more class.

www.sawanoya.com/ Address: 2-3-11,Yanaka,Taito-Ku,Tokyo, 110-0001 JAPAN Phone: +81-3-3822-2251 Facsimile: +81-3-3822-2252 E-mail: sawanoya@tctv.ne.jp Metro: Nezu, Chiyoda Line. Within walking distance of JR Ueno Station if you are feeling energetic.

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To stay at the Hotel Okura is to travel back in time. The hotel, a stone’s throw from the British and American embassies, is dark, and wooden and would probably bring on palpitations in contemporary interior designers. What it lacks in street credibility it makes up for in attentive service and a sense of detachment from the hustle and bustle of the nearby Kamiyacho government and business district. Prices start at 33,000 yen.

Hotel Okura, 2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku; home.okura.com/tokyo/index.html/

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Gues-T House is a backpackers hostel in Azubujuban, SW Tokyo. I recommend it because it gives excellent value for money, and is in a fantastic location for seeing Tokyo.
One night - Y2,900 (c.£15)

Azubujuban Station - exit 4. Head up the road to the left of 'Wendy's' to a cross road (c. 200m). Turn left, and go down the road 'til you get to a park on your left. Look for a coffee bean shop, take a right and the hostel will be on your right, the same side as the coffee bean shop.
Tel: 09048000791

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Stunningly stylish and high-tech hotel close to Tokyo Station and major shopping areas. (The chain has two hotels in Tokyo, and this one at Marunouchi is easily more convenient for access.) You are not supposed to nick the handsome kimonos and pyjama suits but you will no doubt take home a few ideas about modern interior design, and so its worth the extra money. Friendly and faultless service. Try the Four Seasons Executive Suite.

www.fourseasons.com

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Widely considered the place to be seen staying in Tokyo, the Park Hyatt is a favourite haunt of visiting VIPs and assorted celebrities. The hotel is housed in the Shinjuku Park Tower, three pointed towers designed by local architect Kenzo Tange. Room rates start at around 40,000 yen, and the impressive choice of bars and restaurants could leave you parting with at least as much again. But it’s unavoidable if you want the ultimate chic Tokyo experience.

Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; www.parkhyatttokyo.com/

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The rooms are clean, and an array of bars and restaurants is just a few minutes’ walk away. The hotel caters mainly for tourists on package tours so it can get noisy at night. Room rates start at 9,400 yen. A 24-hour convenience store is located on the ground floor for those given to late-night attacks of the munchies.

3-2-9 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; Tel : +81/(0)3 3343-3111; www.wh-rsv.com/english/

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