Tower Records in Shibuya gleams like a beacon, calling out to music and book lovers across the city and its inhabitant nationalities. It has recently gone under construction, so that what was once a peaceful book haven on the seventh floor has become a cool, sophisticated book/coffee shop on the 2nd. There are spaces for you to sit and read, with chargers for your laptop or phone, wooden floors, the best foreign book selection I’ve yet to see, and music which makes you stop and say “I LOVE that track!” The coffee shop serves taco rice, cakes, make-your-own hamburger sets and is decked out in a comfy, earthy style.

www.tower.jp
apan, Tokyo, Shibuya, Jinnan, １−２２−１４
+81 3 3496 3661
Google map: bit.ly/11odpBl

* Hollie is our Been there local for Tokyo. You can check out her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/tokyo-local-hollie-mantle.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/HollieMantle

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Go down to Yoyogi park on a Sunday afternoon and prepare to feel as though you’ve warped into a land without inhibitions. Just a 2 minute walk away from Harajuku station, men of indistinguishable age gather in a circle, wearing leather jackets, leather trousers, leather everything, and rock out to old tunes for the astonished eyes of the onlooking public. At some points it seems as though they’ve all gathered randomly, but then suddenly one will take centre stage and perform a solo dance and it begins to seem like a rehearsed, if not well oiled, routine.

Google map: bit.ly/WYRCCA

* Hollie is our Been there local for Tokyo. You can check out her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/tokyo-local-hollie-mantle.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/HollieMantle

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Go down to Yoyogi park on a Sunday afternoon and prepare to feel as though you’ve warped into a land without inhibitions. Just a 2 minute walk away from Harajuku station, men of indistinguishable age gather in a circle, wearing leather jackets, leather trousers, leather everything, and rock out to old tunes for the astonished eyes of the onlooking public. At some points it seems as though they’ve all gathered randomly, but then suddenly one will take centre stage and perform a solo dance and it begins to seem like a rehearsed, if not well oiled, routine.

Google map: bit.ly/11r8B20

* Hollie is our Been there local for Tokyo. You can check out her profile here:
www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/tokyo-local-hollie-mantle.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/HollieMantle

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Interesting experience to cook seaonal Japanesefood. Excellent home visiting and talking with Mari.

mari-cooking.p1.bindsite.jp/

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All over the globe the world is seeing a rise in the ingenious idea of a book and coffee shop fusion. In a land where boundaries are pushed to the limits of imagination this idea goes one step further.
The three two-tiered Tsutaya bookshops in fashionable and serene Daikanyama are designed with a theme of ‘home away from home’ in mind. Read, relax, have a coffee, listen to music; this is a space in which you can be at home without being alone. Choose from “Ajin”; the lounge-bar where you can recline on a leather sofa and place a drinks order via ipad for a taste of life in the future, or Starbucks where you can sit inside at one of the breakfast bars and charge your laptop or phone, or alternatively outside with the patio heaters and cosy Starbucks blankets. If you enjoy a spot of people watching then you’ll enjoy this vantage point as the local well-to-do walk past with their dogs and offspring.
With the winter chill setting in and the outdoors becoming more and more a mission impossible, this is a place you can keep warm and toasty whilst relaxing in the cool breeze and early setting sun.

store.tsutaya.co.jp
+81 03 6738 3838
Google map: bit.ly/TUfgKi

* Hollie is our Been there local for Tokyo. You can check out her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/tokyo-local-hollie-mantle.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/HollieMantle

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There’s something about the word “Roppongi” which makes most expats in Tokyo shudder. It’s notoriety as a roaring, rowdy night spot is a reputation you approve of when you’ve had a beer or two and deplore when you’re sprawled on the pavement the next morning hoping you wont add any unwanted decoration to the pavement.
The Roppongi Hills Public Art and Design Project has seen to it that no more decoration is required here. Dotted around outside the glamourous Hills building (famous for the Mori art museum and high class boutiques) lie giant, endearingly haphazard sculptures which are spectacles worthy of tourist attention in themselves.
I’d recommend going at night when the backdrop of the office-light stars help create a perfectly melodramatic mood for viewing the giant spider, who rests his spindly, monstrous legs over one of the entrances of the Hills. Behind this, an enormous rose emerges from the ground, reminiscent of something from Disney’s Beauty and the Beast.
The fantasy world of art and sculpture follows this theme of random bursts of creativity through to the street outside. Rather than sit on a traditional wooden, plastic, or often as the case may be, no bench at all, the public seating areas surrounding the hills have also been transformed with a pinch of imagination. Choose from a giant ice cube, an ice chair, modern white and black seating pebbles or a marble sofa.
Morning or night, pavement or majestic marble couch, Roppongi is designed with going out in style in mind.

Google map: bit.ly/Tc6ERx

* Hollie is our Been there local for Tokyo. You can check out her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/tokyo-local-hollie-mantle.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/HollieMantle

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A garden designed and built after the 1923 earthquake. Five minutes walk from Oedo line station Kiyosumi-Shirakawa exit A3. The garden dates back to 1721 but was rebuilt by the founder of Mitsubishi. It is beautiful. Wherever you look you see something beautiful. It's the epitome of garden design where the path leads you to gorgeous vistas. Take your camera or painting equipment and visit at different times of day to enjoy the different light. The pond contains tame carp, terrapins and ducks who expect to be fed. It's an oasis of calm in a busy city. 150 Yen for adults, children free.

3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Koto, Tokyo, Japan
+81 3 3641 5892
Google map: bit.ly/WhOUHD

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Throughout Tokyo (and Japan) there are many, many small, independent coffee shops, normally run by one guy who's the owner and has been running the shop for decades. They often, but not always, have great coffee, often prepared in strange ways (siphon coffee for example) but are usually quite quirky. I've seen everything from old video arcade tables games used as tables to one dedicated entirely to James Brown. As the owners are one man shows, and often quite old, they do what they want and the decor, etc. reflects that. As many of them are quite old, they're slowly disappearing as their owners retire or die, and are generally not replaced so enjoy them while you can.
Smoking is mostly allowed (plus for me as a smoker) but don't let that put you off if you're not. Most have food of the coffee shop variety ( cheese toast, sandwiches, cakes, etc, some have lunch specials). Note: "oyagi" means something like "old, no-longer attractive, man". These are the kind of people who often go to these places, but it's not as bad as that sounds and these guys wouldn't go somewhere for years or decades if they weren't good.

Everywhere, just look for small signs advertising coffee (usually in English) on the street or shop windows. They're mostly on the ground floor.

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Originally a school to teach girls how to be free, this 1921 Frank Lloyd Wright building is low-slung and plain-style, and one of the must-sees of the ikebukuro district.

2-31-3 Nishi-ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
+81(0)339717535
www.jiyu.jp/index-e.html
Google map: bit.ly/kFaBCV

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This is one of Tokyo's best private art museums and was founded by Mr.Ishibashi (his name means stone bridge) the president of Bridgestone Tyres. It houses a small but impressive collection of French Impressionist art. It is also a rare opportunity to see Japanese paintings in the Western style dating from the Meiji Period onward. Since there are only 10 small rooms of displays, it makes a quick and worthwhile one hour detour if you're in the vicinity of Tokyo JR station (it's a short walk directly east). There is also the delightful, if expensive, 'Georgette' tearoom.

Bridgestone Building, 1-10-1, Kyobashi, Chuo-ku,Tokyo.
www.bridgestone-museum.gr.jp
+81 3-3563-0241
Google map: bit.ly/dKUb7i

Tokyo (Yaesu Central exit, 5 min.), Kyobashi (Meidi-ya exit, 5 min.), or Nihombashi (Takashimaya exit, 5 min.). On Chuo Dori (with an entrance around the corner on Yaesu Dori)

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Watch a sumo tournament if you are visiting Tokyo in January, May or September. These are held at the impressive Kokugikan stadium, which seats over 13,000 spectators. Obtaining tickets is much more straightforward now thanks to the Internet - booking ahead is advisable, although sometimes there are a few tickets available on the day. A really impressive option is to book a Masu-seki, which is a boxed area for four people close to the ring itself. These cost ten times the amount charged for ordinary seats, but you are - quite literally - in the centre of the action. Take a train or taxi to Kokugikan (nearest underground is Kuramae). Stop en route and buy a bento box to eat whilst you’re there - much better than the food sold on site. Although the wrestling starts at 10am, aim to arrive in the early afternoon. The most important bouts take place between 4pm and 6pm, and there is a special closing ritual to cleanse the ring after these matches have finished, which is worth seeing.

Kuramea Kokugikan 2-1-9, Kuramae, Taito-Ku
Nearest underground - Kuramae
www.sumo.or.jp/eng

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Part bar, part puppet show, this one-man-cabaret of a dining experience is for anyone who likes to eat out in truly surreal fashion.

It's the choicest blend of beer, bar snacks, party games and singing lavatory available in Tokyo, though definitely not recommended for the overly self-conscious.

Hanasada Bldg. B1F 5-12, Shinbashi 2 -Chome, Minato-Ku, Tokyo.

homepage: www1.ocn.ne.jp/~kagayayy/index_e.html

review: metropolis.co.jp/tokyo/448/bars.asp

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Like anywhere else, the Japanese smoke. Smoking, however is blanketed in the same courtesy and respect as many other aspects of the culture. If you smoke while walking around, don't toss your butt on the street. There are dedicated smoking areas around the city and there are ashtrays outside many buildings. Use them. If in doubt, follow the lead of other smokers.

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Go at night to pay homage to the statue of Hachiko the dog. Hachiko went to meet his master at the station every night,even for 9 years after his master died at work and didn't return. Great spot to people watch! Be amazed by the orderliness of the Japanese as they wait to cross the road into the Centre Gai. Nobody moves until the green man shows, then 300+ cross the road at the same time. Wander the pedestrianised streets and gawp at the weird, trendy fashions of the young Tokyoites. All this lit up by the 6-storey tall TV screens and neon lights.

Shibuya station

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If you go down to Yoyogi park on a Sunday, you‘re sure of a big surprise. The rockers can be found in the entrance to the park. Managing to dance and keep their sky-high quiffs in place at the same time is as much a testament to the architectural ingenuity of the Japanese as the Tokyo tower. They must be using some industrial strength hair gel that has not yet been introduced to the west.

Equally baffling is their ability not to crack into a smile as they sombrely strut their stuff whilst being gawped at by passers by. On hot days they slip out of their worn black leather jackets to reveal skin sexily embossed with red and green dragons. Nearby on the concourse next to Harajuku station you can catch gangs of teenagers dressed up in the latest outrageous trends. Don’t worry if they scowl at you when you take their photograph, it’s all part of the attitude.

Turn right out of Harajuku station.

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It is not so well known that Tokyo shelters geisha communities that are as old as their Kyoto counterparts. The streets behind Asakusa temple provide a glimpse of the 'flower and willow world’ and offer possibly the best chance you’ll get in this sprawling metropolis of spotting one of these elusive, enigmatic creatures.
Head down the nameless side streets that lead off the touristy Nakamise dori at Asakusa temple to discover high-class kimono parlours and discreet booths selling slender hand-painted bamboo fans, delicate tortoiseshell hair ornamentations, 10-inch-high ‘geta’ sandals and the white face make-up for which geisha are famed.

With a bit of luck you’ll also see a hooded rickshaw and black-clad puller with his distinctive wide brimmed hat and split-toed tabi shoes transporting one of these ethereal women to a nearby theatre or discreet teahouse. Squint your eyes and it looks like a scene from the 17th century.

Take the Ginza or Toei Asakusa subway lines - alight Asakusa station. If you feel like being more romantic take a boat-trip from Hinode Pier or the Hamu Rikyu gardens along the Sumida river alighting at Azumabashi bridge.

For more information about Tokyo's geisha district see www.asakusa-e.com

Asakusa Information centre (2-18-9 Kaminarimon) has English speaking staff 10-8pm daily)

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The 47 ronin are buried here with their Lord Asano Naganori. Very famous samurai story in Japan. The 47 retainers avenged their lord's seppuku and were required to commit seppuku themselves by the then Shogun. A famous and very popular kabuki play by Takeda Izumo II, Miyoshi Shôraku, and Namiki Sôsuke written in 1748. The graves are cared for by the temple priests. December 14th is the anniversary festival of their revenge - great historical atmosphere.

Shinagawa District
A few minutes walk from Sengakuji Station on the Toei Asakusa Subway Line

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Meiji Shrine is the second most important in Japan, and conveniently lies in the centre of Tokyo, near Harajuku.
If you go there on Sunday morning(ish) you can catch the kids in Harajuku dressed up as their favourite manga/anime characters AND visit the shrine! Bargain. The shrine is behind Harajuku station, across the bridge where the kids are hanging out, and lies in some woods at the end of long gravel path. It is free to get in, and there is lots to see/do. I recommend spending some time reading the prayer tablets written by Japanese and tourists alike, and even writing one yourself. You never know, you might get what you want! You might also be lucky enough to see an elite wedding going on in the courtyards of the shrine.

Harajuku stn. Turn right out of the station, and right again. Cross the bridge, take photos of kids in fancy dress, enter the shrine on the right.

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What else combines the privacy of a Swiss bank, the convenience of a public toilet and the gaudiness of Hollywood?

Love hotels offer beds (sometimes of the revolving or water variety) at about 4,000 yen for a couple of hours' "rest" or around 8,000 yen for the whole night. At the most basic, the automated mini-bars offer condoms and vibrators along with pep drinks and beer.

The more outlandish hotels offer steamy jungle rooms, S&M dungeons and even a full-scale replica of Queen Elizabeth's coronation couch.

Usually found close to entertainment districts or by the side of motorways and are easily spotted by their outlandish exteriors, which include such features as fairy castle ramparts, replicas of the statue of liberty and mock Spanish galleons.

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Dedicated to the work of animator Hayao Miyazaki and Studio Ghibli, the museum is a 15-minute train ride from both Shinjuku and Shibuya. Even if you've never heard of Studio Ghibli before it's worth a visit, and the nearby neighbourhood of Kichijoji has a slightly bohemian feel that is unusual to come by in Tokyo.

Ghibli Museum, 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-shi, Tokyo 181-0013.
www.ghibli-museum.jp
The nearest station is Mitaka (Chuo Line), but I would recommend walking there from Kichijoji station (Chuo and Inokashira Lines).

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