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Part bar, part puppet show, this one-man-cabaret of a dining experience is for anyone who likes to eat out in truly surreal fashion.
It's the choicest blend of beer, bar snacks, party games and singing lavatory available in Tokyo, though definitely not recommended for the overly self-conscious.
Hanasada Bldg. B1F 5-12, Shinbashi 2 -Chome, Minato-Ku, Tokyo.
homepage: www1.ocn.ne.jp/~kagayayy/index_e.html
review: metropolis.co.jp/tokyo/448/bars.asp
Like anywhere else, the Japanese smoke. Smoking, however is blanketed in the same courtesy and respect as many other aspects of the culture. If you smoke while walking around, don't toss your butt on the street. There are dedicated smoking areas around the city and there are ashtrays outside many buildings. Use them. If in doubt, follow the lead of other smokers.
Go at night to pay homage to the statue of Hachiko the dog. Hachiko went to meet his master at the station every night,even for 9 years after his master died at work and didn't return. Great spot to people watch! Be amazed by the orderliness of the Japanese as they wait to cross the road into the Centre Gai. Nobody moves until the green man shows, then 300+ cross the road at the same time. Wander the pedestrianised streets and gawp at the weird, trendy fashions of the young Tokyoites. All this lit up by the 6-storey tall TV screens and neon lights.
Shibuya station
If you go down to Yoyogi park on a Sunday, you‘re sure of a big surprise. The rockers can be found in the entrance to the park. Managing to dance and keep their sky-high quiffs in place at the same time is as much a testament to the architectural ingenuity of the Japanese as the Tokyo tower. They must be using some industrial strength hair gel that has not yet been introduced to the west.
Equally baffling is their ability not to crack into a smile as they sombrely strut their stuff whilst being gawped at by passers by. On hot days they slip out of their worn black leather jackets to reveal skin sexily embossed with red and green dragons. Nearby on the concourse next to Harajuku station you can catch gangs of teenagers dressed up in the latest outrageous trends. Don’t worry if they scowl at you when you take their photograph, it’s all part of the attitude.
Turn right out of Harajuku station.
It is not so well known that Tokyo shelters geisha communities that are as old as their Kyoto counterparts. The streets behind Asakusa temple provide a glimpse of the 'flower and willow world’ and offer possibly the best chance you’ll get in this sprawling metropolis of spotting one of these elusive, enigmatic creatures.
Head down the nameless side streets that lead off the touristy Nakamise dori at Asakusa temple to discover high-class kimono parlours and discreet booths selling slender hand-painted bamboo fans, delicate tortoiseshell hair ornamentations, 10-inch-high ‘geta’ sandals and the white face make-up for which geisha are famed.
With a bit of luck you’ll also see a hooded rickshaw and black-clad puller with his distinctive wide brimmed hat and split-toed tabi shoes transporting one of these ethereal women to a nearby theatre or discreet teahouse. Squint your eyes and it looks like a scene from the 17th century.
Take the Ginza or Toei Asakusa subway lines - alight Asakusa station. If you feel like being more romantic take a boat-trip from Hinode Pier or the Hamu Rikyu gardens along the Sumida river alighting at Azumabashi bridge.
For more information about Tokyo's geisha district see www.asakusa-e.com
Asakusa Information centre (2-18-9 Kaminarimon) has English speaking staff 10-8pm daily)
Meiji Shrine is the second most important in Japan, and conveniently lies in the centre of Tokyo, near Harajuku.
If you go there on Sunday morning(ish) you can catch the kids in Harajuku dressed up as their favourite manga/anime characters AND visit the shrine! Bargain. The shrine is behind Harajuku station, across the bridge where the kids are hanging out, and lies in some woods at the end of long gravel path. It is free to get in, and there is lots to see/do. I recommend spending some time reading the prayer tablets written by Japanese and tourists alike, and even writing one yourself. You never know, you might get what you want! You might also be lucky enough to see an elite wedding going on in the courtyards of the shrine.
Harajuku stn. Turn right out of the station, and right again. Cross the bridge, take photos of kids in fancy dress, enter the shrine on the right.
What else combines the privacy of a Swiss bank, the convenience of a public toilet and the gaudiness of Hollywood?
Love hotels offer beds (sometimes of the revolving or water variety) at about 4,000 yen for a couple of hours' "rest" or around 8,000 yen for the whole night. At the most basic, the automated mini-bars offer condoms and vibrators along with pep drinks and beer.
The more outlandish hotels offer steamy jungle rooms, S&M dungeons and even a full-scale replica of Queen Elizabeth's coronation couch.
Usually found close to entertainment districts or by the side of motorways and are easily spotted by their outlandish exteriors, which include such features as fairy castle ramparts, replicas of the statue of liberty and mock Spanish galleons.
Dedicated to the work of animator Hayao Miyazaki and Studio Ghibli, the museum is a 15-minute train ride from both Shinjuku and Shibuya. Even if you've never heard of Studio Ghibli before it's worth a visit, and the nearby neighbourhood of Kichijoji has a slightly bohemian feel that is unusual to come by in Tokyo.
Ghibli Museum, 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-shi, Tokyo 181-0013.
www.ghibli-museum.jp
The nearest station is Mitaka (Chuo Line), but I would recommend walking there from Kichijoji station (Chuo and Inokashira Lines).
Holds the world’s biggest collection of Japanese art – everything from samurai armour and swords to lacquerware and calligraphy. Admission is 420 yen.
The museum is located inside Ueno Park, about 15 minutes’ walk from Ueno Station; www.tnm.go.jp/
Houses one of the biggest collections of Japanese and Asian contemporary art, with added attractions made available through the museum’s tie-up with the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The 1,500 yen admission fee includes access to the observation deck on the 52nd floor.
52nd and 53rd floors of the Mori Building in Roppongi;
6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-Ku; Tel: +81-3-5777-8600
Just across the bay in Chiba this Holy Mountain is crowned by a 1,000-year-old temple and the largest Buddha in Japan. And it's relatively undiscovered, meaning it's crowd free for now.
Check out this for more details - written by myself I should add.
metropolis.japantoday.com/tokyo/recent/travel.asp
An exquisite park, used for weddings on the weekend, it's an enchanting way to experience a very personal side of Japanese culture. The brides are lined up in a holding pattern like jets coming into Heathrow. They marry somewhere nearby and come to the park for the photographs. The most fabulous thing is when the bridal party are in traditional Japanese clothing. Incredible, ornate, solemn.
The koi in the pond are ravenous and beach themselves in an attempt to get food, their lips rival Mick Jagger's.
Spend a morning or more here, the actual park is traditional and has a tea house, ducks, the aforementioned pond, and some beautiful stonework.
Don't miss it.
Shirokanedai metro
Today, only a few Shinto shrines continue to venerate the phallus, and a small shrine in Kanamara is one of them. Massive representations of the male member abound, and there is a yearly festival during which a phallus is paraded around the neighbourhood. Back in the Edo period, the shrine was popular among prostitutes, who believed it offered protection from syphilis. Today the shrine is active in HIV awareness and care for those afflicted.
From Shinagawa take a Keihan Kyuko (red) train toward Yokohama. Get off at Keiku Kawasaki, go down the stairs and take a Daishi Line train three stations to Kawasaki Daishi, walk across the street on for a few meters. The shrine will appear on the right.
The 47 ronin are buried here with their Lord Asano Naganori. Very famous samurai story in Japan. The 47 retainers avenged their lord's seppuku and were required to commit seppuku themselves by the then Shogun. A famous and very popular kabuki play by Takeda Izumo II, Miyoshi Shôraku, and Namiki Sôsuke written in 1748. The graves are cared for by the temple priests. December 14th is the anniversary festival of their revenge - great historical atmosphere.
Shinagawa District
A few minutes walk from Sengakuji Station on the Toei Asakusa Subway Line
A quiet haven close to the Tokyo International Forum where you can enjoy the museum's world-famous collection Chinese ceramics. When you tire of those, you can have a cup of tea while you gaze over the spectacular view of the Imperial Palace.
The following from the Japan tourism website:
The Idemitsu Museum of Arts opened in 1966 to display the works of art collected over a period of more than 70 years by Sazo Idemitsu, the founder of Idemitsu Kosan Co., Ltd. The museum provides a space where you can relax surrounded by Oriental art, with a wonderful view looking out over the Nijubashi area of the Imperial Palace.
www.idemitsu.co.jp/museum
Address Teigeki Bldg. 9F, 3-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku MAP
Telephone 03-3213-9402
Opening Hours 10:00-17:00, closed:Mondays
TCVB Tips A 5 minute walk from the Tokyo International Forum
Admission ¥800(Adults)
Look for the starship that appears to have landed next to the sumo stadium, and ascend the umbilical escalator into the belly. The next thing you know you're crossing a wooden bridge and a couple of centuries back to old Edo within this fascinating museum that brings the history of Tokyo to life. The displays range from entire city districts with thousands of miniature city-dwellers that you can examine through bincoluars, to a life-size kabuki theatre to be explored. Witness the changes in the life of the city brought on by increased contact with the world outside Japan, and finally by war.
Ryogoku on the Oedo or Sobu lines.
Great chance to explore Japanese theatre, the Kabuki theatre in Ginza, Central Tokyo sells tickets for whole or part performances. Bear in mind that whole performances can easily last 5 hours and the seats are packed in tight! You are also advised to get a pair of earphones to relay the action in English. One of the plays I saw consisted entirely of a group of noblemen sitting cross-legged on the floor and would have been meaningless to me if I hadn't been being told what was happening! There's often dancing and spectacular fight scenes too.
On the main Ginza strip - alight at Higashi Ginza station
If you can make yourself understood in Japanese, and you ask nicely in advance, you can go and watch asa geiko (morning practice) at a sumo 'beya' for free.
The stables themselves are fascinating, and worth the trip alone. Outside: normal-looking suburban houses, Inside: dirt floor, padded walls and a sumo ring. In exchange for getting there for about 8am you'll get to see the wrestlers run through their techniques and warm ups (when we went this included beating each other in the belly with a lightly-padded baseball bat) and you'll see plenty of short matches between rikishi of all levels without having to pay to see a whole basho and at far closer proximity than anywhere else.
Most of the stables (beya) are in the Ryogoku area, and lists and phone numbers can be found on the internet.
A theme park dedicated to Hello Kitty and a host of other supporting Sanrio cartoon characters. Young children will enjoy the (basic) rides and attractions; visitors with an appreciation for Kitty Kitsch will be in seventh heaven.
Sawai is out in the rural west of Metropolitan Tokyo and offers a perfect contrast from the wonders of downtown life. The sake brewery with its restaurants overlooking the River Tama is a great spot to take a breather from what thrills Tokyo has to offer. Tours are in Japanese only but the English pamphlet is well handy and doesn't get in the way of sampling the liquid on offer. There are 4 tours a day.
Sawai is about 90 minutes from Shinjuku Station. Take the Chuo Line to Tachikawa and change to the Ome Line. The Brewery is 5 minutes down the hill from the station. Reservations for a tour can be made on 0428 78 8215.
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