A great place to stock up on bargain souveniers and gifts before heading home. You can find anything from origami paper, crockery and toys not to mention all manner of household goods

They're everywhere. There's a nine story one in Funibashi on the outskirts of Tokyo.

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If you want to know what the Japanese do on a Sunday afternoon, then head off to Yoyogi Park. The whole of Tokyo seems to descend on this wonderful park. Families come for a picnic, unsigned pop bands play inpromptu gigs, theatre groups practise their latest plays and people just hang out letting the world go by! Everything seems to happen in this one place! When I went there a year ago, I felt like I saw the real Tokyo - seeing the Japanese at play.

Don't miss it!

Adjacent to Yoyogi-koen and Meiji-jingumae Stations on the subway Chiyoda Line, and Harajuku Station on the JR Yamanote Line

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Kiddy Land, one of Tokyo’s largest toy stores, is a shrine to all things “kawaii” (cute). Spread over six floors, the shop features all major global toy brands and characters, including Dick Bruna’s Miffy, Disney and of course Hello Kitty. Character-branded stationery, cards, stickers, stamps, and gift wrap can be found in the basement.

The first floor offers an eclectic mix of fancy dress gear, watches and accessories. The second floor features a fabulous array of stuffed animals, while the third floor concentrates of American characters such as Barbie and Spiderman. The fourth floor is geared towards pre-school kids and toddlers, and the fifth is full of games and gadgets. With such a fantastic range of toys, this Tokyo institution will win over even the most jaded of shoppers.

ADDRESS: 6-1-9 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku

PHONE: +81 (0)3 3409 3431

WEBSITE: www.kiddyland.co.jp/index2.html (Japanese language only)

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It is not so well known that Tokyo shelters geisha communities that are as old as their Kyoto counterparts. The streets behind Asakusa temple provide a glimpse of the 'flower and willow world’ and offer possibly the best chance you’ll get in this sprawling metropolis of spotting one of these elusive, enigmatic creatures.
Head down the nameless side streets that lead off the touristy Nakamise dori at Asakusa temple to discover high-class kimono parlours and discreet booths selling slender hand-painted bamboo fans, delicate tortoiseshell hair ornamentations, 10-inch-high ‘geta’ sandals and the white face make-up for which geisha are famed.

With a bit of luck you’ll also see a hooded rickshaw and black-clad puller with his distinctive wide brimmed hat and split-toed tabi shoes transporting one of these ethereal women to a nearby theatre or discreet teahouse. Squint your eyes and it looks like a scene from the 17th century.

Take the Ginza or Toei Asakusa subway lines - alight Asakusa station. If you feel like being more romantic take a boat-trip from Hinode Pier or the Hamu Rikyu gardens along the Sumida river alighting at Azumabashi bridge.

For more information about Tokyo's geisha district see www.asakusa-e.com

Asakusa Information centre (2-18-9 Kaminarimon) has English speaking staff 10-8pm daily)

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There are traditional coffee houses all over Tokyo. Small - usually air-conditioned - places of calm from the hustle, bustle and summer heat. Your glass of ice cool water is constantly topped up, a cloth to refresh you, coffee, cakes and in many perfect toasted cheese. Excellent people-watching places too. Don't even think about using Starbucks or any of the chains.

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Once you experience the service in Japan, going back to Britain will never be the same. Expect the finest courtesy and graciousness from bars, hotels, stores.

It is recommended we remember our manners in return, best to keep your irritations and road rage at home, it does not have any standing here.

We have lived here for 6 years and I have met 3 rude Japanese people compared to the useless attitude I experience when I come back each year to Britain.

I have walked home late at night after a Girls Night Out in Roppongi and never encountered any loud mouth louts, I could not do that anywhere in Scotland.

Tokyo is a wonderful place for those with a heart for adventure, we love it.

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Basically Tokyo-on-sea, a big slab of reclaimed land in Tokyo bay where you can go and chill out, eat/drink/shop, enjoy sea breezes, even go to the (artifical) beach! There are stunning views of Tokyo (especially at night), and it's one of the few places in Tokyo where you can enjoy the great outdoors. There's a massive ferris wheel for even better views and you can even rent a dog to walk!! One of the best things about it though is the journey there - it's worth going just to enjoy the monorail ride across the enormous Rainbow Bridge.

Yuirkamone monorail from Shimbashi. A one-day ticket gives unlimited travel on the monorail all day for around £7.

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One of dozens of department stores in the Ginza area; this is my personal favourite, mainly because of the food hall. You can find an absolutely stunning range of local and international delicacies here and best of all a lot of it is out on cocktail sticks for you to try - helpful where you're not sure what it is - so you can wander around, enjoy the frenetic atmosphere and have your lunch at the same time!

Ginza or Higashi Ginza subway

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Visit the Ginza district on a Sunday.The streets are closed to traffic and it's a great time to stroll around the area with it's many shops. Perfect for people watching!

Ginza is well connected to both underground and overland train services. The nearest station is, not suprisingly, called Ginza.

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Probably one of the largest expanses of gadget heaven on planet Earth. Think of anything electronic and you'll find it here. The current sterling/yen exchange rate also means that you'll pay around 15-20% less here (maybe a bit more if you bring your passport with you to get a further 5% off as a tax-free purchase).

On the Yamanote line (and others) two stops north of JR Tokyo station. For a preview of one of the biggest stores go to www.yodobashi.com (Japanese language only unfortunately).

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I'm thinking here of Isetan in Shinjuku and Tobu and Seibu department stores in Ikebukuro, although all the major dept stores at Shibuya and Tokyo stations should have similar food basements.

Always busy and noisy with the calls of the sales staff touting their wares, they give an insight into the astonishing variety and sophistication of Japanese cuisine. Also, they also frequently offer tantalising titbits to passers-by.

On an upper-floor, there is usually also a selection of reasonably-priced restaurants offering a variety of different styles of Japanese cuisine.

If you get off the JR Yamanote line at Shinjuku, you'll find Odakyu, leave by the East Exit, and turn right, Isetan is on your left about 200 metres.

Get off the JR Yamanote line at Ikebukuro and it will be hard not to find yourself in either Tobu or Seibu department store basement 1. Both have two whole basement floors of food.

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Once you get past the gothic beau peep schoolgirl horror-show that is Harajuku station on Sundays, you'll find many fantastic shops hidden away in the side-streets between Takeshita Dori (the one with three million kids walking down, you can't miss it) and Omotesando (Tokyo's 5th Ave.). You'll find something to buy no matter what your budget.

Nearest station: Harajuku (JR Yamanote Line).

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The world's biggest Tower Records is just a few minutes walk from Shibuya station. If they don't have the CD you're looking for, chances are it doesn't exist. The top floor is dedicated soley to English books and magazines, especially useful if you want to quickly browse through a few Tokyo city guides without having to buy one.

1-22-14 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku.
Nearest Station: Shibuya.
www.towerrecords.com

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There are hundreds of happening districts to explore after you've wandered around Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku and the like in your guidebook. You can take a subway a few stops out from Shibuya to Shimokitazawa - an alternative studenty type area with lots of music shops and live venues but well away from the tourist trail. Or else try Daikanyama with a more refined tree-lined kind of neighborhood feel, plenty of cafes and boutiques. Take the subway to Ebisu to get there.

Shimokitazawa - private subway from Shibuya
Daikanyama - Ebisu subway

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It's erm... either a back massager or a vibrator. Nothing really epitomises kitsch and the whole cult of kawaii (cute) better than the bubble-headed cat Hello Kitty. What could be a more appropriate souvenir of subverting this wholesome image? Just pray you don't get stopped at customs!

Kabukicho in Shinjuku and Shibuya have many ...ahem... shops for adult entertainment which are almost all staffed by sweet old ladies or young students making a yen or two. Hello Kitty products are easy enough to spot.

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This market, the biggest in the world, is a must-see for any visitor to Tokyo. Huge interest in the early-morning tuna auctions has led to restrictions on the number of observers, but the stalls that surround the market are heaving with sea creatures of every imaginable description. The later you go, the slower your progress as the number of shoppers builds up. But, in any case, this is a place to be savoured. And, amazingly, it doesn’t smell of fish.

Metro: Tsukiji (on the Hibiya line)

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You can find great folding bikes : shinjuku-ku, shinjuku 3-15-11, Matsudokuosan adhoc building 3F.

www.jitensya.co.jp/?menu=shop02&sid=13

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Atmospheric Buddhist temple leads into a colourful market selling food, clothes, souvenirs, etc. If you want to buy fans, wood-block prints, chopsticks, kimonos, Edo dolls, combs, incense burners or even a coat for your dog - this is the place to come. Many local craft shops and not a western designer store in sight.

Asakusa station

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An amazing underground world of... Manga and Anime cells, contemporary and vintage robots and tin toys, bizarre sci-fi costumes and movie props...

Even if you don't want to spend any money - you'll want to spend a couple of hours at least in this... THE MOST FASCINATING TOY STORE EVER!!

For map and other information
www.mandarake.co.jp/english/shop/sby.html

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No. 109 is a rocket ship shaped spiral of hell that doubles for a mass of girly clothes and accessory shops replete with staggering kitsch and the incessant shriek of teenagers replete with barking megaphones. My friend's girlfriend loves the place but after 5 minutes I ran out screaming into the slightly less insane mass at Shibuya. Truly surreal and very scary.

Come out of Shibuya Hachiko plaza exit, go forward and bare left at the crossing and you'll see the spaceship on the left. Be careful.

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