Just as a beer tastes best after physical exertion so a hammam is blissful when muscles are weary and the body has a degree of grubbiness. So head for Jordan and spend a couple of days trekking in the desert at Wadi Rum, sleeping under the stars and enjoying Bedouin hospitality but no washing facilities. Then on to Petra where a hammam just before the site provides sublime refreshment. It may not be a world beater but it will certainly feel like it and the staff are skillful and welcoming. You leave cleansed and reinvigorated, ready to explore Petra; a much larger site than expected where it is easy to escape the crowds. As the sun sets walk on to a second Bedouin camp where a traditional meal awaits plus an untraditional beer. Perfick!

Google map: bit.ly/gcPnZs

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A visit to the Monastery is a must. While a bit of a trek (set off early morning to avoid the heat of day), the route can be walked, or you can be taken up by Donkey.

Either way, it's well worth it, with a cave cafe opposite the Monastery to relax, take in the atmosphere and recharge your batteries

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The giant red mountains and vast mausoleums of a departed race have nothing in common with modern civilisation, and ask nothing of it except to be appreciated at their true value - as one of the greatest wonders ever wrought by Nature and Man. Although much has been written about Petra, nothing really prepares you for this amazing place. It has to be seen to be believed.

www.links4travelers.com/blog/?p=255

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The Dana Guesthouse is perched on the edge of the spectacular Wadi Dana canyon in the Dana nature reserve in southern Jordan.

It one of the most peaceful and relaxing places you can stay in the whole country, with only 9 rooms and amazing views. You can hike in the wilderness by day and gaze at starry night skies whilst contributing to Jordan's foresighted sustainable eco-tourism.

You will also be greeted with very warm hospitality and fantastic local organic food. Simple, wild, luxury.

Dana Village, 45min drive north of Petra. +962 6 4616523, rscn.org.jo

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It's well worth staying the course and ending the day at Petra. The rocks take on a deep pink/red hue as the sun sets, plus as the site empties of people you are left to behold the beauty of the carvings in relative peace.

When I visited (April 2007) they were placing lit candles for a Petra At Night Walk - adding even more romantic beauty to the carvings and the walk back up the sique.

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Much more than the Treasury famously visited by Indiana Jones (fantastic facade but no interior), Petra is a whole hidden city later overlaid by a Roman town. The walk down the narrow siq gives no clue as to the scale of what's in store. It takes at least two days to see it all. The red and pink striped colours of the soft sandstone are astonishing. After a glass of mint tea make the climb up to the monastery, or hire a donkey or camel to get you there.

It's worth visiting Little Petra a few kilometres away with more intimate streets and cave houses. Plenty of hotels of all grades in the busy small town that has sprung up to cater for visitors, and excellant levante food.

A few hours north of Aquaba via Wadi Rum, or half a day south of Aman. Plenty of buses or tours

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