As its name suggests, simple and homely Koldunine specialises in koldunai, ravioli-like dumplings which are basically the Lithuanian version of Polish pierogi or Russian pelmeni. I popped in for lunch and tried koldunai filled with potato, which were much tastier than they sound. The service was quick and friendly, and if I had more time in Vilnius, I would have definitely gone back. Koldunai is not a gourmet restaurant, but it’s a good option for lunch or when you’ve built up an appetite after sightseeing. The food is tasty and authentic, and doesn’t cost much either.

Savičiaus g. 6,
+370 679 26259
Google map: bit.ly/U5X4gW

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Coffee Inn is ubiquitous in Vilnius (and in Riga too), and I stopped by a few times. I really enjoyed the coffee and filling hot chocolate, and the small range of snacks included cheesecake, which was some of the best I’ve ever eaten. Coffee Inn was reasonably priced, and the staff were friendly.
While I instinctively prefer individually-owned coffee shops, this establishment seemed a bit more than just another you-could-be-anywhere chain. For example, I visited two branches in Vilnius (and two in Riga), and each one was different. Most had a random assortment of very comfy, mismatched chairs, and some had a small but diverse collection of books, which you could read at large tables, giving the coffee shops a slightly Bohemian feel. And the branch at Gedimino 2 is actually inside a bookshop. A good place for a quick stop-off, but equally good if you’re in no hurry.

www.coffee-inn.lt
Branches throughout Vilnius including at Gedimino pr. 2, Pilies g. 3 and Vokiečių g. 18

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Be sure to visit the only synagogue in Vilnius and also the Jewish Museum about a mile away on the same street, where there is a room dedicated to the Righteous Gentiles. Before WW2 there were over 100 synagogues, and now there is only one.

Naugarduko g. 10/2, LT-01141, Vilnius
+370 5 231 23 57
www.jmuseum.lt
Google map: bit.ly/iM8QGO

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The National Gallery of Art in Vilnius is one of my favourites. Housed in a contemporary building on the bank of the River Neris, it traces the history of modern Lithuania through art. There is no forgotten Picasso or must-see Monet here to distract you, all the permanent works are 20th and 21st century Lithuanian. A combination of paintings, photography, installations, video and graphic art combine to show the effects that World War II, Soviet occupation, the Cold War and revolution had on art, and the Lithuanian people. There’s some really good stuff here, and all for 6 litas (£1.50).

Konstitucijos Ave. 22, LT-08105, Vilnius, Lithuania
+37 (0)5212 2997
www.ldm.lt/NDG/Index_en.htm
Google map: bit.ly/gvu18V

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