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‘Muckydonia’ as it was known in a soldier’s book of the period, was too small for the headline news, yet troops on the Salonika front suffered the fog of war as much as troops in Flanders, the Somme, or Verdun. Casualties were borne from poor communications, malaria was endemic and life behind the lines (unlike in France and Belgium) was woefully unexciting.

The Salonica Front stretched from the Gulf of Orfano to Strumica, traversing Ohrid, Krusevo, Prilep, Gevgelia and Doiran, and even touching Skopje. The bulk of the British Doiran offensive in September 1918 was carried out by the forces of the 22nd Division. This division was made up of men from all over Great Britain but largely from Wales and the North of England. After tragic losses, 22nd Division survivors erected a memorial to their fallen comrades shortly after the war at the strong point and observation position they fought so hard to attain, which was known then as The Devil’s Eye on top of Kale Tepe, or the Grand Couronne.

The original memorial was rediscovered among thick undergrowth and vegetation in 2007. To mark the 90th anniversary of the end of the First World War, the British Embassy in Skopje, in conjunction with the Municipality of Doiran, decided to place a replica memorial, inspired by the original, on the site. Informative panel boards depicting the battle at Doiran have been erected, and the original memorial can still be seen, with the new memorial above it. The bunker complex at the memorial site served a supply and command system of trenches and defenses. It was known to the Bulgarians as the Ferdinand and was so named to commemorate the Bulgarian victory there of 1915. Dugouts and other strong points can also be seen.

Thanks to Simon, and Reuben (resident archaeologist) for all their tips and info.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21620 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6599
Another huge plus about Ohrid is the lake of the same name. This huge freshwater lake is in pristine condition due to the lack of industry on its shores. We saw water snakes right by the banks of the town, and beautiful old monasteries are dotted around its shores.

Ohrid: spend the night partying and the day taking a swim and exploring the beautiful old town.

Just across the border from Albania, Ohrid is easily accessible from Skopje with a frequent bus service, but transport is tricky from Albania. If there is a group travelling you can split the price of a minibus between you from Pogradec. This will take you to the border. From here there are usually taxis to take you to the town of Ohrid. This is okay in a group but can work out pricey if you’re on your own. Apart from that there’s always hitching. Get talking to someone at the border and you shouldn’t have too much trouble. The locals on both sides are always eager to help someone out.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6599 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3869 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3869 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3868 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3868 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3866 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3866 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3865 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3865 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3864 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3864 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4309 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4309 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4308 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4308 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3867 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3867 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3863 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3863 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/1508 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/1508