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Stilt chalets and comfortable longhouses made from natural and recycled materials are set along the perimeter of a hill top, offering panoramic views of lush jungle. The veranda of the longhouses and chalets are almost eye-level with the canopy of the forest. Great for watching birds and sunset/rise. The wooden doors and panels of the chalets slide back so you really can be part of the jungle. More spaces with hammocks and swinging chairs are located within the grounds to create your ‘own’ space to experience nature. An open air pavilion with three levels serves as a basic restaurant, bar and chill zone where one can read, connect wifi or converse with the resident owl. This place is designer rustic but comfortable with wonderful helpful hosts and staff.
This unique tranquil haven is well away from the rather shabby city of Sandakan and the well flogged tourist trails of Sabah. Simply the best place to stay in Borneo.
www.paganakandii.com/Home.html
TAMAN HIBURAN JALIL ALIP
Info@paganakandii.com
A perfect way to walk off the xmas excess. A one and a half day Mount Kinabalu climb, reaching the peak just before sunrise on day two, for some beautiful views of the national park, then if you still have the energy a three day trek in the Maliau basin, some of Borneos only remaining primary rainforest. Day one's grueling uphill climb into the basin is particularly tough, where some bits are so steep that they have strapped ladders to the rock face, the next day is a little easier until you reach the Maliau falls and have to walk back up the very steep and slippery way you came in. Then day three is a pleasant meander through the rainforest with a little more time to take in the beautiful pitcher plants and fend off the persistant leaches! All in all a very rewarding trip, which you will finish with a great sense of achievement and absolute exhaustion!
Sutera Sanctuary Lodges run Mount Kinabalu climbs, and Borneo nature tours (an excellent tour company, with great guides) do five day treks in the Maliau basin. Air Asia do very reasonable flights to Kuala Lumpar then onto various airports in Borneo.
Its a 20 minute taxi from downtown, but this place serve some fantastic food including the best barbequed pork ribs I have ever tasted. The Jamaican chicken served with plaintain and the Roasted duck (advance order only) are outstanding. Popular also is their breakfast for dinner.
Pick up a good bottle of wine from a supermarket and jump into a taxi. But do call early as the restaurant barely seats 25 max and they fill up fast.
19 Lorong Setia Bistari 2
Off Jalan Beringin
Damansara Heights
Kuala Lumpur
Tel 03 2095 3304
Mui Hiong is a hole in the wall restaurant that specializes in Cantonese and Hakka style dishes. Owner/chef George Lai speaks excellent English and will be happy to help with recommendations. Particularly outstanding are the steamed pork with salt fish, steamed pomfret or kurau (threadfin) fish, the bittergourd with salted egg yolk and the fish head in a sour spicy sauce. Also very good, but spicy, is the fish with black beans and chilli.
Not the most elegant place but excellent food. Acoustics are poor and it can be noisy on a busy night.
4, Jalan Medan Imbi, Off Jalan Imbi,
Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan 55100
Tel: 012-2993331
Its a seven minute walk from the Ritz Carlton Hotel
Almost reluctant to publicise it. In the Brickfields area of KL, on the ground floor of the Temple of Fine Arts - a charitable arts institution. Great vegetarian Indian buffet where you are encouraged not to take more than you can eat and pay what you feel it is worth.
116, Jalan Berhala, Brickfields 50470 Kuala Lumpur
www.annalakshmi.com.my/
Remember what you used to want in an island holiday? Without hawkers, cars, motorbikes... Just a golden beach, clear waters, good food, a few drinks at sunset and activities to do when you get bored of swimming, snorkelling, reading, sleeping and sun bathing.
I was recommended a great little island only three hours from Singapore by a friend. Pulau sibu (sibu island) is exactly what those who have a phobia about big commercial resorts need. This small island only 6km by 1km, no roads or mains power.
The beaches are deserted, the locals friendly and the scuba diving in the Mersing Marine Park excellent because there is only 1 PADI Dive Centre on the island.
Sibu Island Cabanas on Pulau Sibu is a really close to Singapore making it a great location for a weekend short break.
Anyone travelling in Asia or any other tropical countries should always pack a bottle of pure honey. It is the most natural defence against infection and inflammation. I used it after being bitten by an unknown insect in both Cambodia and Kuala Lumpa and both times without doubt the honey healed and restored in a matter of days, and in one case, hours.
Honey has natural antibiotics in it and was my saving grace against bacterial infection which would have curtailed what turned out to be a brilliant holiday. A small plastic bottle of honey tucked away in your backpack will be your best friend abroad!
Raw manuka honey is the best but any honey that has not been pasteurized will do the trick. Check out your local health food shops.
2 Days of Freedom gave birth to the electronic music festival scene here in Malaysia. This festival is held annually around the western coast and boasts DJs like Tiesto, Ferry Corsten, Cosmic Gate and many more.
The most important aspect of this festival is the Balearic vibe given by Tiesto during his set in Port Dickson Beach. After the festival ended, it gets the attention by the media and the press positively and negatively.
2 Days of Freedom will return again this year on May 29 & 30 with DJs like Above and Beyond, Ferry Corsten and Markus Schulz spinning more tracks and more freedom!
This festival has attracted not just Malaysians, but Singaporeans, Indonesian and Australian ravers and partygoers looking for an awesome time. Definitely a must see if you're into progressive house, Trance and Hard Dance.
Going there from KL is only about an hour and 20 minutes, while if you're driving from Singapore it'll take around 2 hours 30 minutes.
A'Famosa Resort
Jalan Kemus, Simpang Empat,
78000 Alor Gajah, Melaka, Malaysia
www.freedom-09.net/
www.afamosa.com/
(+6) 03-2781 8888
Naturalism meets eco-tourism at its very best. If you want to learn about and truly see the beauty of the nature around you on this pretty little island, I highly recommend taking one of these trips.
The knowledge and passion of the guides - in particular the founder, Irshad Mobarak - turn an ordinary nature trail or fun boat ride into something that will make you appreciate where you are and reflect upon what role you have as part of nature in this world.
Trendy, yet still informally friendly, this city-centre bar-restaurant is contemporary KL at its best, all crisp, cutting-edge design, moody lighting and some rather fine food and drink.
There's a great view of the Petronas Towers too, in case you spend so much time in there that you forget where you are.
Ascott Kuala Lumpur, No. 9, Jalan Pinang, KL
+603 2161 7789
www.sevenatenine.com
This is a great way to take in a bird's eye view of the city and eat a lovely meal at the same time.
The restaurant at the top of the KL (Menara) Tower is a revolving one, so within an hour you'll have enjoyed a 360 degree view of the city while eating a whole array of tasty food at the fixed-price buffet.
It's also excellent value - although I'd advise you to stick to water and avoid the overpriced drinks.
Book yourself in for a sunset meal!
No. 2 Jalan Punchak, off Jalan P.Ramlee, 50250 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603 2020 5444
www.menarakl.com.my
Sky Bar, Trader's Hotel, off Jln Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur:
This bar has incredible views and the best time to get here is around 6.30pm to watch the sunset and the fantastic views of Kuala Lumpur. It is expensive and when busy with all the wannabees and wannabeseens, service can be poor. But it is definitely worth a visit.
Hakka Republic Wine Bar, Level 2 Menara Hap Seng, 1-3 Jln P Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur:
This Chinese styled bar has everything going for it. Great music, incredible wine and drinks list and innovative Western food all at a reasonable price. They have a popular set lunch and a great value Sunday Brunch. Good crowd that is focussed on food, drinks and having a good time.
No Black Tie, 17, Jalan Mesui, Off Jalan Nagasari, Off Jalan Raja Chulan, KL:
This quaint little bar that serves Japanese food is a pioneer of live jazz and music in Kuala Lumpur. Great atmosphere though slightly pretentious crowd. Call to find what's on and charges if any.
Sky Bar Tel 03 2332 9888
Hakka Republic Tel 03 2078 9908
No Black Tie Tel 03 2142 3737
This wonderful Chinese style bar is certainly one of the best in this lovely city. With great music, the best wine list in town and some incredible food at very reasonable prices it is quickly becoming the insider's choice in KL. Located just around the corner from the ShangriLa, it has 20 wines and champagnes by the glass and a menu you will not find anywhere else. This includes a great burger, steamed Wagyu beef (absolutely delicious), a scrumptious cod in miso and some great solid staples as desserts.
Level 2,Menara Hap Seng, 1-3 Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03 2078 9908
www.hakkarepublic.com
Monorail staion:Sultan Ismail
Uncle Tan's is a very basic camp located in the heart of the rainforest near Sandakan. It can be quite tough - squat toilets, lots and lots of mosquitos and mud, long walks through jungle - but the chance to see the wildlife is unbeatable. I saw a dominant male orangutan from about 5m away, plus a reticulated snake, tarantula, scorpion, lots of proboscis monkeys, bearded pigs, hornbills etc. Fantastic place with brilliant fun staff and a lovely communual atmosphere.
On the main road to Semporna, a few miles outside Sandakan (quite near airport) - any bus will drop you off if you tell them where you're going. Make sure you get cash out first though, as there are no ATMs for miles.
www.uncletan.com/
Sipadan and nearby Mabul offer some of the best scuba diving and snorkelling in the world. I stayed at Uncle Chang's which is actually on Mabul, so you can dive in and snorkel straight off the front of the dining room.
The dorms are basic, but there's a fantastic open-sided dining room/common area with the sea lapping against the supports. The food is good and plentiful, and the price is really good value (50 ringgit per night, full board). Make sure you book in advance though, and tell them that you want to dive at Sipadan, as there are only limited spots on the trip each day and people had to wait a few days if they had just turned up.
You can fly to Tawau from Kuala Lumpur, then a fairly expensive taxi ride to Semporna. The mainland office is next to the large Dragon Hotel on the sea-front, and the boat leaves for Mabul every morning. www.sipadanbackpackers.com/
Roti cannai is a traditional dish and is a flat bread and a small bowl of curry. It is often seen as a poor person's dish but is really tasty and it is the one thing I remember from Malaysia and wish we had it here!
Uncle Tans run a 'jungle camp' with basic facilities and huts on the Kinabatangan river in Sabah. The camp represents a fantastic base from which to see an incredible amount of wildlife. As part of a very reasonably priced 3D/2N tour you also get to visit the Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre in Sepilok.
Other 'tour' options are becoming available. The people working at Uncle Tans are super friendly, informative and great with children. Uncle Tans can be reached easily from Kota Kinabalu or Sandakan.
Sabah is in easy and inexpensive reach from Kuala Lumpur through Air Asia for example (airasia.com).
This has to be one of the highlights of many trips to southeast Asia, a real fantastic, family-friendly opportunity to see crocodiles, wild pigs, gibbons, lizards, proboscis monkeys and if you are lucky, elephants and orang utans.
A lot of lower-end accommodation options in Kuala Lumpur for backpackers and people/families on a budget are quite poor (bed bugs being a common complaint). For £20-24 you can get a double room at the Swiss Inn, located right in the heart of vibrant Chinatown, close to Central Market and importantly, light rail inter-city transport links. It represents a great value option and comes with an excellent buffet breakfast. Room has TV and tea making facilities etc. Book online for some decent deals. No extra cost for children though they do not provide an extra bed.
Raju's serves south Indian breakfasts in the mornings and banana leaf tiffins (the Malaysian BLT - a pile of rice and curry served, as everything is at Raju's, on a banana leaf) in the afternoon.
Now, it is not on the tourist beat, it is not within sight of the Twin Towers, it's not even technically in KL but it is one of the best restaurants in the world.
It is situated next door to La Salle school on Jalan Chantek which is off Jalan Gasing which is off the Federal Highway heading towards Shah Alam. This is not the reason it's the best restaurant in the world though. It has a large outdoor dining area shaded by trees and with a charmingly bubbling storm drain running down one side. But this is not the reason it's the best restaurant in the world.
It is situated in a stand of shops which includes a picture framers, a photo shop and a barber's in a suburban residential area, populated by rather well off Malaysians, with Indians rather more plentifully represented than is perhaps the average. But this is not the reason it's the best restaurant in the world.
The reason it's the best restaurant in the world is because it serves, in the mornings, roti canai - which is the best breakfast in the world.
Basically a paratha-style flatbread of many calories, it is griddle fried freshly so that a crisp, friable crust forms on the dough, which is then punched and broken up before serving. Fairly boring, really. But then add some dal, some fish curry kuah (the gravy, not the actual fish) and perhaps a small piring (dish) of mutton curry, or a piece of fried tengiri, then add to this a teh tarikh (tea made with condensed milk which has been "tarikh'd", i.e. "pulled" through the air from one vessel to another to aerate and cool) and heaven, my friends, is a place on earth.
So. Be seated. There is no reservation, there is no plate captain, no "This way sir" - this is Malaysia old-style. There are many south Indian waiters in white shirts and blue trousers however. Call one over and ask for "roti canai" (pronounced "rotty chan-eye") and a teh tarikh. The dal, some carrot chutney and some coconut chutney are dumped unceremoniously in front of you along with a damp banana leaf. It is perfectly permissible to dry off the leaf with a tissue. I don't bother. And wait. A short time later (longer if at the weekend) and the roti, steaming, fragrant and - a sticking point for many - slightly smaller than average disc of bread is casually clapped onto your leaf. Serve yourself with dal, chutneys in small pools around the circumference. Some pour great ladlefuls of dal all over the roti, mash it into a mush and devour it sloppily in handfuls. A perfectly acceptable way to eat it in my opinion.
But we will choose the dainty option (though not the daintiest - forks and spoons are available, and widely used).
Tear off a small piece of roti, drag it through the dal (whilst arguing with your friends about whether or not the best nasi lemak is to be found in Ipoh or Penang) and pop it in your mouth. There is a faint cuminy, asafoetida tang to the dal, a faint sweetness (not too sweet, oh no) to the roti and a mouth feel (as Mr Blumenthal would have it) which is crunchy, soft, full-flavoured with mild spice (but not too mild, oh no) and completely satisfying. Tear off another piece. Pick up a perfectly tender piece of curried mutton - and although I never had a bad mutton curry when I lived in Malaysia, Raju's has to be the best - and once again, those curious contrasts are there. Crunchy/soft, spicy/bland, tangy/sweet. Take a sip of your scaldingly hot teh tarikh: it is foamy, sweet, strong and in combination with the roti and the curry as precisely perfect as any of the great pillars of Malaysian food when made perfectly. nasi lemak, laksa, prawn mee, char kway teow - roti canai. These are the five. Now you know one. Seek the rest.
Raju's Banana Leaf Restaurant, nearest LRT Taman Jaya, but it's quite a hike in the heat. Take a cab and ask for "Jalan Gasing, PJ" (pron. "gassing" pron. "peejay") then take the first left after the elevated LRT line. Raju's is at the end of the stand of shops on the right hand side of Jalan Chantek.
Stay at the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion if you like quaintness and history, stay at the g Hotel if you prefer hip and contemporary lodging.
Also, tour the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, eat at the Gurney Drive food stalls and sample everything.
Don't try to take out illegal CDs or DVDs. Read The Star. Visit Kek Lok Si temple. Take the cable car, but arrive early: the lines are awful. Walk the canopy walk. Buy a Makansutra food guide. Indulge in a MacWaffle at Red Garden.
Trip report, with photos, at www.travelmusings.net
Trip report, with photos, at www.travelmusings.net
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion:
www.cheongfatttzemansion.com/
g Hotel: www.ghotel.com.my/
Makansutra: www.makansutra.com/index.php
Travelmusings: www.travelmusings.net
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