Very pleasant cafe, bookshop, and CD store in the heart of Condesa. I spotted Carlos Monsivais sipping coffee on a table opposite and felt very much the intellectual about town. Good selection of fiction, history, art books (in Spanish).

Nuevo León 115, in Condesa.

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Open 24 hours a day, this is the perfect place for an early or late breakfast - so long as you like churros! This is a cafe that sticks resolutely to what it does well. El Morro serves up excellent hot chocolate and coffee, and mountains of churros - hot, sugary, deep fried extruded doughnuts. Go on, give your arteries a rush.

42 Lazaro Cardenas, Mexico City - on the edge of the historic centre.

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Cafe Popular and Cafe Tacuba are both intsitutions and deliver the authentic DF experience. Cafe Popular is great for good value breakfasts with tons of food and coffee. Can get very busy as it's (as the name suggests) very popular with the locals. Cafe de Tacuba is a bit more expensive but a real experience with waiting staff in pinnies and 50's style head-dresses. Very colourful decor and delicious food. I recommend the hot chocolate and sweet breads. Great to people watch, especially on a Sunday when clans of "chilangos" head out for food.

Cafe Popular - 5 de Mayo Street; Cafe de Tacuba - Tacuba Street nr Allende Metro.

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On the sixth floor there is a terrace where you can dine, or if you're a cheapskate like me take a coffee (£2) and have a great aerial view of the Zocalo and cathedral.

Corner of 5 de mayo

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