This is no holiday, but if you want to see Mongolia as the Mongolians do, you have to do it from a horse, and travel independently, staying and eating with nomadic families or kipping under the stars. The Adventurists have made this possible, having reinstated the 'pony express' postal network initiated by Ghenghis Khan in the 13th century, and created a very ambitious equine adventure race. You navigate using a GPS, changing onto a fresh horse at horse stations posted every 40kms, travelling 1000kms in around ten days. As well as allowing you to maintain a swift pace, this brings you into contact with a series of Mongolian herding families, an unforgettable experience. I crossed virgin steppe, pristine rivers, forest, flood plain, mountainous and even desert sections, braved storms and sunstroke, made friends for life and found an even deeper respect for horses than a lifetime around them had kindled. It was the journey of a lifetime and I would have ridden all the way home again if I could have! It's a completely inspired event, totally unique.

Next event, August 2011. www.mongolderby.theadventurists.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/35fqhvt

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Best veggie restaurant in the Mongolian capital. Excellent value and will cater for vegans/allergies on request.

+976 5515 9651.
www.lunablanca.org

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Why would you want to come all the way to Ulan Bator, only to end up drinking in an Irish pub? Good point. However this brand new bar is the place to be in Ulan Bator at the moment of writing. Packed every night with excellent live music (not just cover versions of Hotel California), the Irish Pub has very little Irish about it, aside from the token (bad) Guinness. Stick to local beers or indulge in sharing a bottle (or more) of Chinggis Black vodka like the locals. Nice outdoor patio in summer.

Opposite Khan Brau

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