Getting to Essaouira

gives us the There’s no airport or train station at Essaouira but a decent coach service runs from Marrakech (where you’re likely to find the best deals on flights) four times a day. It’s surprisingly quick (the drivers really shift it!), although if you find yourself with a long wait until the next bus departs (booking tickets in advance is the best bet) then you could also take a taxi. Share with four or five others heading that way and it shouldn’t be more than 200dh each – only 60dh more than the bus.

The Fish Market

Every day (and into the evening), local fishermen set up their stalls along the harbour selling their super-fresh catch (the crabs are still wriggling, in fact). Head up when you get hungry and decide what you want – then they’ll throw it onto the barbeque and serve with salad and bread at the benches around each stall. It’s simply the best (and freshest) fish I’ve ever tasted! One word of warning, though, don’t let the guys on the outside catch you first – walk towards the middle of the group where you’re likely to get a better price.
Place Moullay el Hassan
The main square at the southern end of the Medina, Place Moullay el Hassan is full of reasonable restaurants serving tagine for around 50dh (and a strangely large selection of pizza?) and cafes with views over the harbour. Stop for a mint tea or cafe au lait and enjoy the bustle of tourists, locals and musicians going about their day.

Exploring by Bike

Although the beach at Essaouira is nice enough, it can get pretty full during the high season so you could hire bikes (from outside the shop opposite the police station near Bab es Sebaa) for around 80dh a day and head out of town. Go through Bab Doukkala and follow the coastline through some scruffy suburbs until you come to a track leading through the dunes... and head down to your own private beach, where you won’t see another soul for miles. Avoid swimming here, though – the rocks make it a bit rough.

Diabat

The nearby hippy village of Diabat doesn’t have a lot to recommend it beyond a legend which connects Jimmy Hendrix and a lot of dope to the area. You can head for a coffee at the Hotel Hendrix and look back to Essaouira but the biggest attraction actually lies halfway between the river inlet and Diabat; a ruined building in the dunes almost buried by sand. The same (unfounded) rumours have it that Castles Made of Sand was written here – but it’s a pretty inspiring place either way.

Surfing and Wind Surfing

Thanks to a strong wind and the Atlantic current. Essaouira has a reputation in Morocco and beyond for its excellent surfing. The main hub of the sport is actually about 20km away from the city but there’s still plenty of fun to be ahead on the stretch on beach just south of the Medina. Walk along the front and you’ll see surf schools that also hire out body boards, surf boards, wetsuits and windsurfs for around 50dh an hour.