- Essaouira
- (11)
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Morocco
This is a stunning riad made up of four self-catering apartments. All the apartments have access to a communal terrace and courtyard.
Dar Lazuli is really close to the main square in Essaouira and we found it just a nice little place to chill out relax.
I have stayed several times with my in-laws in Essaouira so have learned some tricks on how to eat the best food cheaply (and stay well).
The best option is some form of self-catering to take advantage of the amazingly fresh fish, fruit and vegetables on sale in the local market in the medina. Shopping is a really fun, exciting experience and the locals will not rip you off.
The fishmongers will prepare the fish for a small fee.
Anything you cook from such brilliant ingredients, even if it is just salad and grilled fish, will taste brilliant.
The one and only off-license shuts at 8pm every day and is located just outside the medina at the north entrance.
For breakfast (if you don't mind the potential calories) everybody universally agrees the best is Patisserie Driss just at the rear corner of the main square. Get there before 11am for the best choice of French pastries, fresh orange juice and good coffee.
For snacks, the takeaway pizza stands near Driss are all good.
If you want a more elaborate, heavy, traditional Moroccan meal, visit one of the small restaurants in the 'dog leg' off the main square, near the carpet shops. All offer standard set menus with tagine, traditional Harira, etc. All are roughly the same standard and price (although I've recently heard bad things about Petit Pearl).
If you like fish don't miss the cafe at the back of the fish market. You buy your fish then pay them to cook it for you. If doesn't get fresher than that!
Avoid fish stalls around the port, well known to serve old manky fish to tourists and responsible for many a tummy upset.
Essaouira - medina
This new restaurant serves delicious Moroccan food (by the cook formerly at Villa Maroc) in beautiful, simple surroundings. The chicken pastilla was by far the best we tasted anywhere on our trip - deliciously moist and worth going there just for this. This is a small restaurant which means we were able to pick and choose from all the various menus rather than feeling bound by one particular set menu. Very reasonable prices too. We got a table for two without reserving but as it becomes better known it may be preferable to book ahead, especially for larger parties. It's down a little street not far from Les Alizes (which was also an excellent restaurant choice).
6 Rue Med Diouri, Essaouira near the Musee L'Alliance Francaise. 024 78 58 54.
Dar Lazuli in Essaouira is a really tranquil, relaxing place to stay. It has a great location just inside the medina walls, a minute's walk from the beach, main square and cafes.
The riad is full of character and lovely white painted walls which just make the whole place feel full of light.
The beds are huge and really comfortable, and there are two terraces where you can sit and enjoy meals outside. Essaouira can be pretty windy and the terraces are really sheltered.
The Moroccan couple that look after Dar Lazuli are incredibly friendly, keep the place immaculate and can't do enough for you. Latifa can also cook delicious meals for you in your apartment which I thoroughly recommend!
Dar Lazuli
rue Moussa ben Noussair
Essaouira
www.darlazuli.co.uk
Argan oil is highly prized, used both in cooking and cosmetics. Some funny legends about goats - do ask. Shops in Morocco are full of it, but stories abound about fake or diluted products. You can go directly to places where argan nuts are shelled and milled. The cooperatives - usually run by women - are everywhere on the road from Essaouira to Marrakech. On recommendation from my hotel I went quite far - to Cooperative Feminine Argan El Farah in Hanchan, a 25-minute drive from E'ra. Don't know if I needed to go that far, but they had a girl with passable English, which doesn't happen everywhere, so I could ask questions. This was the only place where I could take photos of people at work, more importantly, women at work (they're kind of invisible otherwise). Drivers at the grand-taxi station in E'ra were proposing to take me there for 450 dhrs (30 quid!), but I haggled it down to 150 round-trip and 30 mins waiting (walk away until you really get it your way is one technique). So I talked to the coop lady, took my photos and they gave me a taste of the oil for cooking and some wonderful paste made with argan oil, almonds and honey. Be prepared for a bit of shock when shopping begins. Even at producers level it ain't cheap at all - 250 ml bottle of oil - cooking or massage - is about 10 quid, the paste costs the same. I've reasoned myself with thoughts of the money going directly to the people who work and not to 100 re-sellers in the chain.
El Hanchan, on the main road from Essaouira to Marrakech or any coop closer to E'ra
A budget place (I haggled it down to 100dhrs in January 08) with predictably bare rooms (no heating), but a pretty patio and very helpful (if not English-speaking) staff. No ensuites, but bathrooms are clean and showers powerful. Thirty steps off the main tourist drag in a predictably scruffy alleyway, takes some time to locate.
10 rue Abdessalam Labadi www.riadessaouira.com 00212(0)24783323
A lovely house in a quiet district of Essaouira's medina. We were one of the first guests to stay there as the house has recently been renovated and I have to say it is fantastic!
The owners have thought of everything, right down to an Alessi corkscrew and loads of other quirky details - but you can tell they also really care about the local community as they ask people to bring old clothes to give out to poor families and they give some of their profit to charity too. Although there are plenty of modern conveniences in the house the feeling is really Moroccan, but with a twist.
We loved the location too, as its a bit off the beaten track and it's great just to sit in the lounge and spy on the street below. The views from the terraces are fantastic, and to be honest we enjoyed staying here much more than the ultra-posh riad we'd just stayed at in Marrakech, because here we had the place completely to ourselves. It's also cheap!
Light, airy and very good value; Taros Cafe next door is very good.
Hotel Riad Dar Ness, 1 rue Khalid ben Walid, B.P 640, 44 100
Tel: 00 212 24 47 68 04
This year sees the 10th anniversary for Essaouria's Festival of Gnawa Music.
Set in a beautiful and historic port town (formerly known as Mogador) on the Moroccan Atlantic coast, the Gnawa and World Music Festival is well worth a trip.
Essaouria's charm has attracted travellers and artists worldwide, including Orson Welles, Jimi Hendrix, Mick Jagger, Maria Callas and Pasolini.
This superb fortified town has entered the international spotlight and has just been named a Universal Patrimony Site by the United Nations.
Fly to Marrakech and coach/taxi to Essaouria (about 3 hours).
Festival URL:
www.festival-gnaoua.co.ma/index.htm
June 22-25 - free
Ryad in the Medina with views of the crashing Atlantic waves from the roof as you tuck into your delicious breakfast.
Light, airy and spotless bedrooms with huge comfy beds, crispy white linen, great showers (double rooms and suites). Warm and welcoming host as well as very helpful and friendly staff. Evening meals by arrangment.
PERFECT - could have stayed for ever!
16 Rue Ceuta
Essaouira
Tel: 024 476204 (info)
Email: contact@ryadwatier.com
Web: www.ryadwatier.com
A super-stylish converted riad hotel down a quiet alley (but not far from the seafront) in Essaouira. Think World of Interiors or Elle Decor cover shots. It's also got a great roof terrace and rooms are spacious and not overpriced, though the rates do seem to be on the rise since I stayed in summer 2005.
2, rue Souss - Médina
44000 Essaouira
Tel. 00212 24 47 53 46
Fax. 00212 24 47 53 48
www.darloulema.com/
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