Dar Lazuli in Essaouira is a really tranquil, relaxing place to stay. It has a great location just inside the medina walls, a minute's walk from the beach, main square and cafes.

The riad is full of character and lovely white painted walls which just make the whole place feel full of light.

The beds are huge and really comfortable, and there are two terraces where you can sit and enjoy meals outside. Essaouira can be pretty windy and the terraces are really sheltered.

The Moroccan couple that look after Dar Lazuli are incredibly friendly, keep the place immaculate and can't do enough for you. Latifa can also cook delicious meals for you in your apartment which I thoroughly recommend!

Dar Lazuli
rue Moussa ben Noussair
Essaouira
www.darlazuli.co.uk

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A budget place (I haggled it down to 100dhrs in January 08) with predictably bare rooms (no heating), but a pretty patio and very helpful (if not English-speaking) staff. No ensuites, but bathrooms are clean and showers powerful. Thirty steps off the main tourist drag in a predictably scruffy alleyway, takes some time to locate.

10 rue Abdessalam Labadi www.riadessaouira.com 00212(0)24783323

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A lovely house in a quiet district of Essaouira's medina. We were one of the first guests to stay there as the house has recently been renovated and I have to say it is fantastic!

The owners have thought of everything, right down to an Alessi corkscrew and loads of other quirky details - but you can tell they also really care about the local community as they ask people to bring old clothes to give out to poor families and they give some of their profit to charity too. Although there are plenty of modern conveniences in the house the feeling is really Moroccan, but with a twist.

We loved the location too, as its a bit off the beaten track and it's great just to sit in the lounge and spy on the street below. The views from the terraces are fantastic, and to be honest we enjoyed staying here much more than the ultra-posh riad we'd just stayed at in Marrakech, because here we had the place completely to ourselves. It's also cheap!

www.moroccoholidayhome.com

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Light, airy and very good value; Taros Cafe next door is very good.

Hotel Riad Dar Ness, 1 rue Khalid ben Walid, B.P 640, 44 100
Tel: 00 212 24 47 68 04

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Ryad in the Medina with views of the crashing Atlantic waves from the roof as you tuck into your delicious breakfast.

Light, airy and spotless bedrooms with huge comfy beds, crispy white linen, great showers (double rooms and suites). Warm and welcoming host as well as very helpful and friendly staff. Evening meals by arrangment.

PERFECT - could have stayed for ever!

16 Rue Ceuta
Essaouira
Tel: 024 476204 (info)
Email: contact@ryadwatier.com
Web: www.ryadwatier.com

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A super-stylish converted riad hotel down a quiet alley (but not far from the seafront) in Essaouira. Think World of Interiors or Elle Decor cover shots. It's also got a great roof terrace and rooms are spacious and not overpriced, though the rates do seem to be on the rise since I stayed in summer 2005.

2, rue Souss - Médina
44000 Essaouira
Tel. 00212 24 47 53 46
Fax. 00212 24 47 53 48
www.darloulema.com/

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