PLACES TO STAY
We were happy with the Cherifa Suite (approximately $200/night) at Madada Mogador. Nice, contemporary style; convenient location (just inside the medina); pleasant manager who is happy to provide advice and answer questions; and a ginormous deck. And, the liquor store is only a 15-minute walk.

THINGS TO DO
- Have a drink at the Taros rooftop deck. Pretty people, pretty views.

- It's cliche but, see The Ramparts at dusk.

- Get scrubbed at the Hammam Lilla Mira. This was the (unexpected) highlight of our trip to Essaouira.

- Buy argan oil. You'll never find it this cheap in The States.

- Visit Galerie d'Art Damgaard. Stunning pieces by local artists on sale for reasonable prices.

- Treat yourself to aperitifs (and impressive, complementray hors d'ouevres) in the Heure Bleu lounge.

WHERE TO EAT
- Have a drink on the rooftop deck at Taros. Beautiful view; even beautiful-er people.

- Dine at Le Patio. Sophisticated, yet homey. DO order seafood.

- Lunch at Creperie for a safe, no-nonsense crepe in a convenient location.

- Aperitif It at the Heure Bleu's swanky cocktail lounge. The (complementary) "bar snacks" are first-class.

- Dine at Restaurant La Licorne. Charming. Order the Lyonnaise salad (trust me on this).

Full Essaouira trip report (plus Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains) at: www.travelmusings.net/morocco/

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Just off one of the main streets in Essaouira, take the narrow staircase to the first floor and you'll find a small restaurant full of 60s/70s retro memorabilia with a welcoming owner, laidback atmosphere and unbelievably good food. As a (free) appetiser you are brought flatbreads and delicious dips; the main courses are a mix of tagines and French-style dishes, all amazingly good; puddings - if you can fit one in - imaginative and indulgent. House wine is very good, prices fair, service deliberately relaxed - it's easy to spend a whole evening here and I recommend that you do. Definitely the best food we had in Morocco.

Le Restaurant Elizir
1 rue d'Agadir
Essaouira
Tel 024 47 21 03

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I have stayed several times with my in-laws in Essaouira so have learned some tricks on how to eat the best food cheaply (and stay well).

The best option is some form of self-catering to take advantage of the amazingly fresh fish, fruit and vegetables on sale in the local market in the medina. Shopping is a really fun, exciting experience and the locals will not rip you off.
The fishmongers will prepare the fish for a small fee.

Anything you cook from such brilliant ingredients, even if it is just salad and grilled fish, will taste brilliant.

The one and only off-license shuts at 8pm every day and is located just outside the medina at the north entrance.

For breakfast (if you don't mind the potential calories) everybody universally agrees the best is Patisserie Driss just at the rear corner of the main square. Get there before 11am for the best choice of French pastries, fresh orange juice and good coffee.

For snacks, the takeaway pizza stands near Driss are all good.

If you want a more elaborate, heavy, traditional Moroccan meal, visit one of the small restaurants in the 'dog leg' off the main square, near the carpet shops. All offer standard set menus with tagine, traditional Harira, etc. All are roughly the same standard and price (although I've recently heard bad things about Petit Pearl).

If you like fish don't miss the cafe at the back of the fish market. You buy your fish then pay them to cook it for you. If doesn't get fresher than that!

Avoid fish stalls around the port, well known to serve old manky fish to tourists and responsible for many a tummy upset.

Essaouira - medina

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This new restaurant serves delicious Moroccan food (by the cook formerly at Villa Maroc) in beautiful, simple surroundings. The chicken pastilla was by far the best we tasted anywhere on our trip - deliciously moist and worth going there just for this. This is a small restaurant which means we were able to pick and choose from all the various menus rather than feeling bound by one particular set menu. Very reasonable prices too. We got a table for two without reserving but as it becomes better known it may be preferable to book ahead, especially for larger parties. It's down a little street not far from Les Alizes (which was also an excellent restaurant choice).

6 Rue Med Diouri, Essaouira near the Musee L'Alliance Francaise. 024 78 58 54.

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