A budget place (I haggled it down to 100dhrs in January 08) with predictably bare rooms (no heating), but a pretty patio and very helpful (if not English-speaking) staff. No ensuites, but bathrooms are clean and showers powerful. Thirty steps off the main tourist drag in a predictably scruffy alleyway, takes some time to locate.

10 rue Abdessalam Labadi www.riadessaouira.com 00212(0)24783323

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A super-stylish converted riad hotel down a quiet alley (but not far from the seafront) in Essaouira. Think World of Interiors or Elle Decor cover shots. It's also got a great roof terrace and rooms are spacious and not overpriced, though the rates do seem to be on the rise since I stayed in summer 2005.

2, rue Souss - Médina
44000 Essaouira
Tel. 00212 24 47 53 46
Fax. 00212 24 47 53 48
www.darloulema.com/

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