Leave the ramparts, white washed blue shuttered buildings and the fish stalls behind and take a stroll along the endless golden sand. Sample the delights the cake sellers proffer while watching the sun set on the wild Atlantic Ocean. Rest on a log near the dunes and drift into your own magical world as camels, Arabian horses and kite surfers fade to silhouettes against the sinking sun. Round off your day with a traditional hammam in the medina and prepare for a new dawn.

Essaouira Beach, Morocco, Africa.
We sailed there and berthed in the fishing port, but most people travel by bus or hire car.
Google map: bit.ly/vfTQll

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Essaouira beach offers an amazing bohemian mix of experiences. Kick back and soak up the sun, or go surfing. Watch young Moroccan men play football and head-to-toe clad ladies supervise their children playing in the waves. Or ride by camel the length of the beach and gaze out at the ruined fort in the ocean that (allegedly) inspired Jimi Hendrix's 'Castles In The Sand'. When the sun gets too much head up into the (UNESCO heritage) town. Stop for fresh grilled fish by the harbour and then into the souks for mint tea and shopping, or walk the fortress ramparts and stop at the wood-carvers' workshops for aromatic Thuya wood items. Nowhere else on this planet offers such a unique beach experience.

Google map: bit.ly/sfYDBN

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Stayed for 11 nights in a room on the beautiful roof terrace. The riad turned out to be a delightful place, full of charm and character with very friendly and helpful staff. Felt more like home than a hotel. Took breakfast in the sun on the terrace amongst the gulls which was lovely.

www.riadmaisondusud.com
29 Avenue Mohammed ben Abdellah, Essaouira 44100, Morocco
+212 24474141
Google map: bit.ly/rpoWx6

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A fantastic riad in the middle of the old medina of Essaouira. This riad has recently opened and it is very luxurious. The riad is decorated throughout with one-off African artwork, it is amazing. We had a double room which was very nice, it even had a flatscreen TV in it. All of the rooms are en-suite and even have their own lounge area.
On the large roof terrace you have views of the Atlantic Ocean, there is a gentle breeze blowing which is really nice on a warm day. In the evening you get a magnificent view of the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean from the roof terrace.
The riad is in a quiet area of the medina, it is a few minutes walk away from the main shopping area, the fish market and a five minute walk away from the main beach of Essaouira.
The staff at the riad were very friendly, they all spoke good English and were happy to help us with everything that we needed, they were always smiling which made us feel good.

www.riad-bab-essaouira.com
35 biss, bd my Abd errahmane Eddakhil
Essaouira, Morrocco
+212 524 785 508

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I have had a good camera for years, but while I understood how to use it, my pictures were unremittingly dull. The course managed to combine the fun and relaxation of a holiday with a complete course in all the elements of the photography. We have toured the Moroccan countryside, visited souks, stood atop waterfalls, and walked the ramparts of fortified towns. Often we were the only Europeans in sight. From the technical to the artistic, we have covered everything, and have done so at my pace. I left the holiday feeling that, at last, I could compose an image which would not embarrass my camera. While the accommodation was superb, the food great, and the town lovely. The real highlight was that this course did what it said on the tin – I left a much better photographer than I was when I arrived.

imagesinthesun.com/
+212 6066 73395

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A wonderful collection of Marocco's thriving indigenous modern artists, illustrating the traditional thuja technique in a modern context. Vibrant colours and shape shock the senses. Particularly recommended is the work of Said Quarzaz and Trifis. Quarzaz makes warped furniture I wish I could own!

www.galeriedamgaard.com/
Avenue Oqba Ibn Nafiaa, Essaouira
+212 524 78 44 46

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Just off one of the main streets in Essaouira, take the narrow staircase to the first floor and you'll find a small restaurant full of 60s/70s retro memorabilia with a welcoming owner, laidback atmosphere and unbelievably good food. As a (free) appetiser you are brought flatbreads and delicious dips; the main courses are a mix of tagines and French-style dishes, all amazingly good; puddings - if you can fit one in - imaginative and indulgent. House wine is very good, prices fair, service deliberately relaxed - it's easy to spend a whole evening here and I recommend that you do. Definitely the best food we had in Morocco.

Le Restaurant Elizir
1 rue d'Agadir
Essaouira
Tel 024 47 21 03

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Essaouira is full of riads and hotels catering to the large number of visitors that make their way here each year. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay though, you can’t do much better that this cute little traditional guesthouse in a great location near the harbour and beach.

Like everywhere in the Medina itself, it can be a bit tricky to find so arm yourself with a decent map before you start looking (note: Lonely Planet’s offering doesn’t begin to cover it...). It’s small enough to feel like a house rather than a hotel and the French-style breakfasts on the roof terrace are a great way to start a lazy day in the sunshine.

www.hostelbookers.com/hostels/morocco/essaouira/16246/

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Spending a few impromptu September days in this relatively remote surf spot has to be one of my most memorable travel experiences.

Precariously strapping two surfboards to the roof of a taxi, driving some distance south of Essaouira and asking the driver to pick us up in a couple of days (and he showed up on time!) was a true adventure.

The surf was choppy with strong undercurrents, but we had the beach and dunes literally to ourselves. Keep a keen eye out for each other if you attempt this because there are no lifeguards!

We stayed on the "campsite" - a patch of stony ground with trees for cover and a tap. Sidi Kauki doesn't have much by way of facilities, but eating delicious tagine in a hut by the beach was a simple pleasure.

20km south of Essaouira

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