http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33077 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33077 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33059 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33059 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31441 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31441 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31336 On the large roof terrace you have views of the Atlantic Ocean, there is a gentle breeze blowing which is really nice on a warm day. In the evening you get a magnificent view of the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean from the roof terrace.
The riad is in a quiet area of the medina, it is a few minutes walk away from the main shopping area, the fish market and a five minute walk away from the main beach of Essaouira.
The staff at the riad were very friendly, they all spoke good English and were happy to help us with everything that we needed, they were always smiling which made us feel good.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31336 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30792 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30792 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/29282 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/29282 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27840 We were happy with the Cherifa Suite (approximately $200/night) at Madada Mogador. Nice, contemporary style; convenient location (just inside the medina); pleasant manager who is happy to provide advice and answer questions; and a ginormous deck. And, the liquor store is only a 15-minute walk.

THINGS TO DO
- Have a drink at the Taros rooftop deck. Pretty people, pretty views.

- It's cliche but, see The Ramparts at dusk.

- Get scrubbed at the Hammam Lilla Mira. This was the (unexpected) highlight of our trip to Essaouira.

- Buy argan oil. You'll never find it this cheap in The States.

- Visit Galerie d'Art Damgaard. Stunning pieces by local artists on sale for reasonable prices.

- Treat yourself to aperitifs (and impressive, complementray hors d'ouevres) in the Heure Bleu lounge.

WHERE TO EAT
- Have a drink on the rooftop deck at Taros. Beautiful view; even beautiful-er people.

- Dine at Le Patio. Sophisticated, yet homey. DO order seafood.

- Lunch at Creperie for a safe, no-nonsense crepe in a convenient location.

- Aperitif It at the Heure Bleu's swanky cocktail lounge. The (complementary) "bar snacks" are first-class.

- Dine at Restaurant La Licorne. Charming. Order the Lyonnaise salad (trust me on this).

Full Essaouira trip report (plus Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains) at: www.travelmusings.net/morocco/]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27840 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23472 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23472 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/22349
Like everywhere in the Medina itself, it can be a bit tricky to find so arm yourself with a decent map before you start looking (note: Lonely Planet’s offering doesn’t begin to cover it...). It’s small enough to feel like a house rather than a hotel and the French-style breakfasts on the roof terrace are a great way to start a lazy day in the sunshine.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/22349 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21658
Precariously strapping two surfboards to the roof of a taxi, driving some distance south of Essaouira and asking the driver to pick us up in a couple of days (and he showed up on time!) was a true adventure.

The surf was choppy with strong undercurrents, but we had the beach and dunes literally to ourselves. Keep a keen eye out for each other if you attempt this because there are no lifeguards!

We stayed on the "campsite" - a patch of stony ground with trees for cover and a tap. Sidi Kauki doesn't have much by way of facilities, but eating delicious tagine in a hut by the beach was a simple pleasure.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21658 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21025 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21025 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20928
Dar Lazuli is really close to the main square in Essaouira and we found it just a nice little place to chill out relax.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20928 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20160
The best option is some form of self-catering to take advantage of the amazingly fresh fish, fruit and vegetables on sale in the local market in the medina. Shopping is a really fun, exciting experience and the locals will not rip you off.
The fishmongers will prepare the fish for a small fee.

Anything you cook from such brilliant ingredients, even if it is just salad and grilled fish, will taste brilliant.

The one and only off-license shuts at 8pm every day and is located just outside the medina at the north entrance.

For breakfast (if you don't mind the potential calories) everybody universally agrees the best is Patisserie Driss just at the rear corner of the main square. Get there before 11am for the best choice of French pastries, fresh orange juice and good coffee.

For snacks, the takeaway pizza stands near Driss are all good.

If you want a more elaborate, heavy, traditional Moroccan meal, visit one of the small restaurants in the 'dog leg' off the main square, near the carpet shops. All offer standard set menus with tagine, traditional Harira, etc. All are roughly the same standard and price (although I've recently heard bad things about Petit Pearl).

If you like fish don't miss the cafe at the back of the fish market. You buy your fish then pay them to cook it for you. If doesn't get fresher than that!

Avoid fish stalls around the port, well known to serve old manky fish to tourists and responsible for many a tummy upset.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20160 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20064 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20064 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19125
The riad is full of character and lovely white painted walls which just make the whole place feel full of light.

The beds are huge and really comfortable, and there are two terraces where you can sit and enjoy meals outside. Essaouira can be pretty windy and the terraces are really sheltered.

The Moroccan couple that look after Dar Lazuli are incredibly friendly, keep the place immaculate and can't do enough for you. Latifa can also cook delicious meals for you in your apartment which I thoroughly recommend!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19125 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17766 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17766 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17764 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17764 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13374
The owners have thought of everything, right down to an Alessi corkscrew and loads of other quirky details - but you can tell they also really care about the local community as they ask people to bring old clothes to give out to poor families and they give some of their profit to charity too. Although there are plenty of modern conveniences in the house the feeling is really Moroccan, but with a twist.

We loved the location too, as its a bit off the beaten track and it's great just to sit in the lounge and spy on the street below. The views from the terraces are fantastic, and to be honest we enjoyed staying here much more than the ultra-posh riad we'd just stayed at in Marrakech, because here we had the place completely to ourselves. It's also cheap!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13374 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12430 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12430 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11495
Light, airy and spotless bedrooms with huge comfy beds, crispy white linen, great showers (double rooms and suites). Warm and welcoming host as well as very helpful and friendly staff. Evening meals by arrangment.

PERFECT - could have stayed for ever!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11495