A funky 'hostel' (more like a boutique hotel) bang smack in the middle of Fes Old Town. Rooms are spacious and elegantly-furnished, and the shower room is so fabulous you don't mind sharing it.

There's a roof terrace full of sofas (and even an outdoor shower) and also a very useful kitchen and washing machine. Great breakfast, Wi-Fi, cheap rates.

www.darelma.com/

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Fes Youth Hostel is in the Ville Nouvelle, on a leafy back street. Its green courtyard is quiet, occupied by a cuddly black and white cat and some cynical tortoises. Book a twin room here and chill out - we found that though it's half an hour's walk from the medina, the change of atmosphere and the chance to relax were well worth it. And at 135 dirhams a night for the two of us, this is real budget accommodation, and very much better than any hotel we could find for the price. You don't need to be a YHA member either.

18 Rue Abdessalam Sergini, Fes - the back street near the Ville Nouvelle MacDonald's.

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A great oasis in the busy and fascinating medina, roof terrace with views over Bou Inania, great selection of snacks, meals, teas and coffees, cakes, and excellent lamb patties etc. Cheerful young local staff and an enthusiastic English patron. Restored courtyard house up a tiny alley by the waterclock, close to Bab Bou Jeloud Gate. Given the lack of eating places to occupy the gap between very cheap traditional cafes, and upmarket gourmet restaurants, this is a very welcome place any time of day. But the best thing is that the owner is determined to run a rare local cultural programme of arts and music with something on several evenings a week. And then there are the camel burgers, fresh from the camel butcher over the street...

off Tala Kebira under the water clock opposite the Bou Inania Medersa(a must visit)
www.cafeclock.com/home.html

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