The medina is still split into sectors of interdependent activity. One street is nothing but knife-grinders who sharpen knives for the next street, which is full of babouche (slipper) makers.

A hammering will lead you to a courtyard where gigantic tureens are made for weddings. In some streets you will see braid being made. Men also perform kaftan embroidery.

Unlike Marrakech, the Fes medina has no mopeds or vehicles, just mules carrying anything from gas bottles to wet sheepskins, and with a cry of Balek! (Arabic for 'get out of the way', the mules wear rubber soles for grip so you don't hear them).

In the tannery you are right back in the middle ages, where you can see, and more importantly smell, the entire process of flensing to washing to dyeing. The skins are cured with dog and pigeon poo amongst many other revolting things.

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