Nestled high in the Moroccan hillside is Volubilis, the most far-flung post of the Roman Empire. Play at Roman warriors, cobblers and vestal virgins in this small-scale Pompei; wide carriageways, intricate mosaics, olive trees and awe-inspiring, if rather time-rugged, arches make for marvellous photos and a great place to listen to the call to prayer and donkey brays from neighbouring valley villages.

Take the train to Meknes and then get a grand taxi.

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A great oasis in the busy and fascinating medina, roof terrace with views over Bou Inania, great selection of snacks, meals, teas and coffees, cakes, and excellent lamb patties etc. Cheerful young local staff and an enthusiastic English patron. Restored courtyard house up a tiny alley by the waterclock, close to Bab Bou Jeloud Gate. Given the lack of eating places to occupy the gap between very cheap traditional cafes, and upmarket gourmet restaurants, this is a very welcome place any time of day. But the best thing is that the owner is determined to run a rare local cultural programme of arts and music with something on several evenings a week. And then there are the camel burgers, fresh from the camel butcher over the street...

off Tala Kebira under the water clock opposite the Bou Inania Medersa(a must visit)
www.cafeclock.com/home.html

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At the end of a tiny dead end lane in the very heart of the Medina, and looking distinctly unpromising with its collapsing and propped up buildings, is this painstakingly restored small and fabulous riad. With just three rooms available, the owners have lovingly brought every historic piece of timber, plaster and zelij tiling back to its original best. The house is intimate and beautifully furnished with an eclectic and stylish mix of period and contemporary pieces, bird cages, and fabrics including objects from Vietnam, Europe and elsewhere. the terrace looks out over the Medina and hills and is ideal to relax. The home made breakfast preserves, pancakes, juices and range of teas are the passion of the owners, as is the cooking if you have dinner in. The staff and Stephen and Bruno are helpful in the extreme, and will give you lots of honest advice on surviving and enjoying Fes. Rooms E100 to E200 with taxis to airport and that fantastic breakfast.

9 Djerb Lamsside, Souiket Ben Safi, Fes Medina
www.riad9.com/

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There are a series of signposted walking routes that take you through the medina of Fes, set up in 2005. Each one has a different theme with different coloured arrows to mark it, and there are information boards in English, French and Arabic at various points of interest along the way. A good way to explore the medina without getting completely lost.

Throughout the medina.

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