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Mystical Marrakech
Crenellated Wall in Marrakech at Sunset3

Zach, who runs the website www.riadreviews.com, knows Marrakech like the back of his hand. Here he shares his insider knowledge and his tops tips


Marrakech - the name dances out of the mouth like notes from the snake charmer’s flute. While parts of the city are surprisingly modern and metropolitan, the treasure of Marrakech is its ancient medina which has become an interesting panache of old world tradition and new world style.

In Jmaa Al Fnaa, the centerpiece of the medina, wonder abounds. Storytellers weave their tales to onlooking crowds. Acrobats flip, tumble and juggle fire. Men sell black magic offering cures for everything from baldness to infertility. From the stalls of the food-sellers come cries in broken English, “Hey, my friend, our snails are finger-licking good,” and “Hello Cowboy, we have been waiting for you.”

In the midst of it all, men with long beards come in and out of the Koutoubia Mosque at rhythm with the calls to prayer. Brushing by, shoulder to shoulder with them, partygoers rush hurriedly along to the clubs that await.

The big tourist seasons are around Christmas, Easter and the various school holidays. In August the blazing sun keeps the visitors at bay (but also drives down prices, making some great deals available.) Because of the budget airlines that service the airport and the city’s location, Marrakech is also a great launching out point for Moroccan exploration - camel rides and nights in the Sahara under the stars, hiking and camping at Mount Toubkal, and short ventures to cities like Fes and Essaouira.
Best view
Mount Toubkal (Adventurous), Terrace of any Jmaa Al Fnaa Restaurant (non-adventurous)
If you are wanting a great view and an adventure, Mount Toubkal, located about 60 km south of Marrakech provides the best views around. The climb to the top takes about two days. The best company to use is High Country. They have certified guides and are run by a British guy, so language is not a problem. www.highcountry.co.uk

If climbing a mountain is not your thing, climb to the terrace of any of the Jmaa Al Fnaa restaurants around sunset and take in the spectacle of the square. Look specifically for “Les Terrasses D’Alhambra” (Jmaa El Fnaa, 212 (0) 24 44 53 50) or “Café Argana” (Jmaa El Fnaa, 212 (0) 04 74 11)

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Best Thing to do for Free
Wander through the Medina Shops
Get yourself a little map- the best one is put out by Bab Sbaa and is abundant around Marrakech. Use it as a rough directional guide and wander through the various shops and neighborhoods of the medina.

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Where to watch the World go by
Jmaa Al Fnaa
The best place to people watch in Marrakech is anywhere around Jmaa Al Fnaa. If you want to watch for free, there are some benches by the Club Med hotel at the entrance to the square or some benches across from Koutoubia. If you want something to drink, find any of the plethora of cafes around the square. Most all have a section where the chairs face the square.

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Cultural Highlight
Cooking School
There are many in Marrakech but two of the top cooking schools are the one in La Maison Arabe and in Riad Merdoudi. The cooking schools range in activity from whole day events where you begin by buying the spices and food in the souks of the medina, cook all day and end with a feast in the evening, to briefer events where your Moroccan cook has pre-bought and prepared the food and then teaches you how to put it together. For whatever your level of commitment, this is a real treat and a first rate view into traditional Moroccan culture.
La Maison Arab- 1, Derb Assehbe, Bab Doukkala, Marrakech Medina : 212 (0) 24 38 70 10: www.lamaisonarabe.com/uk_content/ateliers-cuisine.php
Riad Merdoudi- Riad Zitoune Lkdim, Derb Jdid 81, Marrakech Medina: 212 (0) 24 44 27 25: www.riadmerdoudi.com

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Time for Love
Les Bains De Marrakech
Gorgeously styled with dim lighting and rose petals everywhere, it is a luxurious setting for a message and an afternoon of lounging around in plush white robes and slippers, sipping Moroccan tea and taking in a gorgeous view. All for about 30 pounds a person.
2 Derb Sedra, Bab Agnaou, Kasbah, 212 (0) 24 38 28. www.lesbainsdemarrakech.com

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Green Space
The Jardins Marjorelle
First planted by Jacques Marjorelle, a French painter and later owned by Yves St. Laurent, the gardens seem otherworldly to the dry, arid climate of Marrakech. Marjorelle Blue, Cacti, fountains, fish ponds, flowers, and bamboo abound. The garden is a very aesthetically unique experience.
Marjorelle Gardens, 212 (0) 44 30 18 52.

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Keep the Kids Happy
Oasiria and Terres d’Amanar
In the summer, Oasiria water park is a great place to take the kids. There is a lazy river, water slides, wave pool and lots of grass to play in. There is also a café and restaurant there.
Oasiria: KM 4, Amizmiz Road. 212 (0) 24 38 59 39. Open from 10 am to 6 pm everday . Closed in winter.
Another great spot is Terres d’Amanar in Toubkal National Park, 30 minutes outside of Marrakech. Scenes from the Sean Connery movie “The Man Who Would Be King” were shot here. There are rope bridges, adventure courses, professional guides, hiking trails, mountain bike trails and a swimming pool.
www.terresdamanar.com 212 (0) 24 43 81 03. Their office is 245 Avenue Mohammed 5, Office # 410, Gueliz.

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Where to eat
Budget: The options abound on this one. There are literally dozens of cheap restaurants tucked in and around the medina, as well as the food stalls in Jmaa Al Fnaa. One nameless restaurant that stands out is located about 200 meters after you exit Jmaa Al Fnaa on Derb Dabachi. It will be on the right hand side and smoke will be rising from its grill. Chicken or ground beef brochettes, bread, coke, and a great salsa costs about 3 pounds total.

Moderate: The restaurant at Jardins Marjorelle. This café/restaurant is tucked in the gardens and has really great food with great presentations.

Nice: Dar Zellij. This restaurant is in a 17th century riad. You can eat on the patio or in the lounges. The food is traditional Moroccan and much attention has been paid to the fine details. The specials are pastilla (pigeon or fish), chicken tagine with almonds, lamb tagine with figs or the Tanjia Marrakchia- the specialty of Marrakech. The menu changes weekly, so there is always something new to try. They are also open for brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. Prices will run about 30-40 pounds a person.
Dar Zellij: 1 Kaasour Sidi Ben Slimane. 212 (0) 24 38 26 27. www.darzellij.com

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Where to stay
Budget: Dar Nimbus. There are places that are cheaper, but with Dar Nimbus, you get the Moroccan riad experience, with great service that tries to give you good value for your money. This refreshingly modest riad is one of the most relaxing riads in Marrakech. Rooms for 3 people start at 35 pounds a night in low season.
Dar Nimbus: 35/40 Diour Jdad- Zaouia Abbassia- Bab Tarzout- Medina Marrakech. 212 (0) 24 38 58 57. www.darnimbus.com

Moderate: Riad Ariha: This riad is a combination of old world Morocco and modern Zen styling. The white décor is very fresh and clean. The owners are a Jordanian/British couple who live in Canada but frequent their riad. Their staff is top notch and this riad gives extra attention to customer service. A room for two starts at 60 pounds in low season.
Riad Ariha: 90 Derb Ahmed el Borj, Kaa Sour, Sidi Ben Slimane, Marrakech Medina. 212 (0) 24 37 58 50. www.riadariha.com

Posh: Riyad El Cadi and Dar Doukkala
Riyad El Cadi is absolutely stunning. It was owned by the former German ambassador to Morocco who was a collector of Berber textiles, Islamic and Byzantine Art and rare Moroccan artifacts. These museum quality pieces are on display in every room. Khadija, the receptionist, speaks flawless English so communication is never a problem. A double room starts at 115 pounds a night in the low season.
Riyad El Cadi: 86/87 Derb Moulay Abdelkader, Dabachi. 212 (0) 24 37 80 98. www.riyadelcadi.com

Dar Doukkala is an eclectic fusion of French and Moroccan styles. In many “fusion” riads the décor is “almost, but not quite.” When you enter into Dar Doukkala, you think to yourself, “this is the definition of a fusion riad.” The smallest details have been paid attention to in the style of the riad. With its swimming pool, fireplaces and spa services it is sure to delight. A double room starts at 140 pounds in low season.
Dar Doukkala: 83 rue de Bab Doukkala, Derb Dabachi, Marrakech Medina. 212 (0) 24 38 34 44. www.dardoukkala.com

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