- Marrakech
- /
- eating
- (18)
-
Morocco
Tigmi was a complete nightmare. We arrived there after a sublime stay at the Kasbah de Toubkal and what a comedown it was. Service was appalling in every respect. The so-called spa offered only a handful of the treatments on the menu. The room was freezing and three heaters had to be hauled in before they could get one to work. They used cold water for the pedicure. But worse was yet to come... the heater in my niece's room burst into flames in the middle of the night and no-one came to help despite us all screaming and yelling. There were no fire extinguishers in the rooms. The owner's response? The heater was made in China. In my room, there was a leakage of water overnight flooding the whole room and staining my leather luggage. The owner's response? I must have left a tap on. They were quite defensive and accusatory. No discount was offered nor any apology. We were supposed to just shrug it off apparently - just as they did. The French manager is so arrogant it beggars belief. The only saving grace? The food was good and the beds were comfortable. A ghastly place stuck in the middle of an extremely poor village. Don't waste your time going there... and don't believe the brochure.
You can find great Indian curries on the street right behind the Djemma el Fna.
Having been driven nuts by incessant requests to buy something or taste food at Jemma El-Fna I pulled my mobile and pretended I was talking. People are much less likely to pester you. Obvious, but I've seen a many distressed tourist trying to untangle themselves from the charms of 10,000 sellers.
We had a wonderful stay at Dar Tassa and enjoyed every second of it. What a beautiful place and what nice and kind people.
Mohammed guided us through the mountains. He spoke English very well and was very kind and told us everything we would like to know
The food was a highlight: they made us some of the best veggie tagines we've had in Morocco and only wish we'd had longer to savour the peace and tranquility of the place.
Souk Cuisine is run by the very friendly Gemma Van de Burgt, in English. She met us in Jemaa el Fna square at 10am and took us around the souks. As she knew all the stall-holders we were able to learn a lot from them and take photos, which can otherwise be quite difficult.
We bought the ingredients then went back to her house which is properly set up for up to five people. We learned to cook about six traditional dishes, including ones not found in restaurants. It was a whole day's entertainment for about £20 including lunch and wine - amazing value and the most fun thing we did.
info@soukcuisine.com
www.soukcuisine.com
+212 73 80 49 55
Charming and relaxing guesthouse. An authentic Morrocan riad with its courtyard and sunroof terrace.
Ideally based for pedestrians and market lovers due to its central location in the heart of the Medina, just five minutes from the very popular place Djemaa El Fna.
The whole team makes you feel at home: friendly and helpful with good local cuisine.
I particularly enjoyed sauna and massages at the end of day after exploring the city. I am looking forward to going back on October for another break.
Riad Dollar des Sables
13 Derb Deffa Ourbaa
Quartier Esmarinne
Medina
40000 Marrakech
website:
www.riaddollardessables.com
mail: reservation@riaddollardessables.com
Tel/ fax 00 212 (0) 24 44 43 14
portable: 00 212 (0) 71 38 95 35
A charming six-bedroom riad situated in the heart of the Medina.
Beautifully restored and decorated with hand-made Moroccan furniture.
A wonderful place to chill out and enjoy the spa, gym and hammam before treating yourself to a fantastic meal freshly prepared.
Owned and run by English expats, the hotel is managed superbly and service is perfect. A gem of a find.
www.riadelmansour.com
227 Derb Jdid
Bab Doukkala
Medina, Marrakech 40000
Tel: 212 (0)24 38 15 77 or from the UK direct on 0203 039 1626
Map: tinyurl.com/3249dr
You have to try it at least once. Most of the stalls are geared to tourists. These usually have large displays of food and hustlers persuading you to eat at their stall. Treat it as a bit of fun but keep control of what you want to eat. For not much more you can eat in one of the many restaurants around the square and get more for your money. The gem is probably the packed stall selling fish (and chips), mainly to locals. Squeeze in when you can & enjoy.
A taste of Japan in Marrakech.
Authentic Moroccan restaurant this is not. Some of the best Japanese food outside of Japan it most certainly is. As a great lover of all things gastronomic, with a soft-spot for fine Japanese cuisine, Tatchibana offered better Japanese food than I have eaten in London, Paris or New York, and what is more, the price tag is more attractive as well. Recently opened in an area of the Marrakech Medina that has not lost its charming madness to the tourist trade, this Japanese restaurant offers the tranquility of a Japanese garden, and savours of the highest quality Japanese cuisine. The chef, a Japanese native who now lives in Marrakech with his wife looks about 15 but prepares his dishes like a sage. This is a must see, not to be missed experience, even if your cultural senses are confused by a small haven of Asia in North Africa.
Tatchibana
38 derb Bab Ksiba,
Kasbah,
Marrakech.
Maroc
www.tatchibana.com
Tel # 024387171
info@tatchibana.com
Don't miss the food and street entertainment on offer in the main square - Djemaa el Fna at night. Try the snails and spicy local aphrodisiac 'tea'.
Les Premices is a great, cheap restaurant with an excellent location over looking the Djema el fna square. It has excellent service, food, and cocktails, and is the perfect place to watch the square come alive.
Overlooking the Djema el fna.
Buffet-style restaurant serving range of traditional Moroccan dishes. High quality, excellent choice, elegant dining room. In the evenings, you pay £10 and get a 3-course buffet meal, with as many repeat tastings as you like. Excellent for those that want to try a range of Moroccan foods.
In front of the Koutoubia, opposite the Place de Foucault.
For a cheap lunch, try the cafe in the Ensemble Artisanal shop, where tasty tagines, harira soup and couscous are served.
Ensemble Artisanal, Avenue Mohammed V, not far from the Koutoubia Mosque.
The best vantage point to sit and watch the world go by! It's directly on the Djemaa el Fna, with several tiers of balcony, depending on your desired viewpoint. A great place to sit in the sun in the morning with a cafe latte and write your postcards, an even better place to pitch yourself around an hour before sunset and watch as the square springs to life for the evening's activities and soak up the atmosphere. If you're a woman travelling alone it's one of the (sadly) few places to sit and enjoy where you'll feel relaxed and unhassled. Prices are reasonable, the food is pretty good and you won't feel rushed to leave. Be warned though, - get there early! It gets busy and in the evening you can only have a 'front row' seat on the balcony if you are eating.
Also, if you're in Marrakech for more than a few days, escape to the coast to Essaouira. It's a few hours drive away but well worth it, fabulously laid back, with a European hippyish feel to it, this is the place to chill with a beer and watch the sunset over the Atlantic.
Restaurant Argana - on the Djemaa el fna, Marrakech
The central square of Marrakech. It is fantastic, especially in the evening. Smoke rises up from the dozens of food stalls which all offer beautiful piles of vegetables, merguez sausages, kebabs, tagines and more. The cooks will call to you as you walk by, but take your time as you're protected by the watchful eye of the tourist police. When you've chosen, sit down and watch as they theatrically pour out mint tea for you. Bread and sauces are provided. Point out what you want cooked, and then prepare to be defeated. About £5 for much more than two people can eat.
In the daytime fresh juices are on offer. Orange for about 10p, mandarin/clementine for 20p.
The medina offers everything, from dried rose petals to the thuya wood ornaments, and sweets,but was the only place where I was groped and pestered.
And down the road from Djemaa el Fna (the Koutobia Mosque side) is a lovely hammam. Segregated times (so men go in the morning, and women in the afternoon). From Koutobia cross the main road as if you are going to Djemaa el Fna. Take the narrow side road, and follow it down. About 500m down on your left is the hammam. A very cheap, very interesting and relaxing experience.
The centre of Marrakech - you can't miss it.
Recently renovated by French owner Christine Rio, Le Tobsil is set in a beautiful old riad in the Medina. Romantic, intimate, and richly decorated, the restaurant is considered one of Marrakech's finest. Guests are seated on two levels around an open courtyard, treated to the hypnotic songs of local gnawa musicians. The food is equally sumptous: a five course Morrocan meal, replete with vegetarian mezes, pastillas, tagine, couscous, pastries and fresh fruit. The set menu is 600DH a head, including apertifs and wine.
22 Derb Moulay Abdallah ben Hezzaien
R'mila, Bab Ksour
Marrakesh Medina
Tel: 024 44 40 52
Restaurant run by an expatriate Frenchman. Lovely courtyard setting, very professional service by waiters in white gloves and superb food and wine. One of our best meals ever, and well worth the £90 for two as a lovely dining experience.
47 Derb Zaouia, Bab Doukkal (in an alley opposite the Culture delegation building in Rue Fatima). Tel 044-387040
The Café du Livre is a new place in the heart of Guéliz, the new part of town. It's a second hand bookstore, mostly English, great selection, with lots of magazines, newspapers, guidebooks for browsing and a very reasonably priced menu done by two michelin star chef Richard Neat of Casa Lalla (who hangs out there all the time, as do all writers and journalists because they have a wifi connection). It's hidden, very low key, very cosy and a great place to have breakfast, lunch or an early dinner as they serve non stop from 9.30 to 21.00. Not to be missed.
44 rue Tarik Ben Ziad (in the patio of Hotel Toulousain, just behind the old Guéliz market);
tel: 024 43 21 49
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
Search Been there
Your tips about Marrakech