Tigmi was a complete nightmare. We arrived there after a sublime stay at the Kasbah de Toubkal and what a comedown it was. Service was appalling in every respect. The so-called spa offered only a handful of the treatments on the menu. The room was freezing and three heaters had to be hauled in before they could get one to work. They used cold water for the pedicure. But worse was yet to come... the heater in my niece's room burst into flames in the middle of the night and no-one came to help despite us all screaming and yelling. There were no fire extinguishers in the rooms. The owner's response? The heater was made in China. In my room, there was a leakage of water overnight flooding the whole room and staining my leather luggage. The owner's response? I must have left a tap on. They were quite defensive and accusatory. No discount was offered nor any apology. We were supposed to just shrug it off apparently - just as they did. The French manager is so arrogant it beggars belief. The only saving grace? The food was good and the beds were comfortable. A ghastly place stuck in the middle of an extremely poor village. Don't waste your time going there... and don't believe the brochure.

www.tigmi.com

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You can find great Indian curries on the street right behind the Djemma el Fna.

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We had a wonderful stay at Dar Tassa and enjoyed every second of it. What a beautiful place and what nice and kind people.

Mohammed guided us through the mountains. He spoke English very well and was very kind and told us everything we would like to know

The food was a highlight: they made us some of the best veggie tagines we've had in Morocco and only wish we'd had longer to savour the peace and tranquility of the place.

www.dartassa.com/

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For a cheap lunch, try the cafe in the Ensemble Artisanal shop, where tasty tagines, harira soup and couscous are served.

Ensemble Artisanal, Avenue Mohammed V, not far from the Koutoubia Mosque.

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The Bahia Palace is beautiful. So is Riad Tamsna, the food has always been fabulous when I have been there, but reports are varied: you can always have mint tea on the roof terrace (or a mohito if you need some alcohol in the medina).

A trip to the Ourika Valley is also a must.

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Recently renovated by French owner Christine Rio, Le Tobsil is set in a beautiful old riad in the Medina. Romantic, intimate, and richly decorated, the restaurant is considered one of Marrakech's finest. Guests are seated on two levels around an open courtyard, treated to the hypnotic songs of local gnawa musicians. The food is equally sumptous: a five course Morrocan meal, replete with vegetarian mezes, pastillas, tagine, couscous, pastries and fresh fruit. The set menu is 600DH a head, including apertifs and wine.

22 Derb Moulay Abdallah ben Hezzaien
R'mila, Bab Ksour
Marrakesh Medina
Tel: 024 44 40 52

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