Having been driven nuts by incessant requests to buy something or taste food at Jemma El-Fna I pulled my mobile and pretended I was talking. People are much less likely to pester you. Obvious, but I've seen a many distressed tourist trying to untangle themselves from the charms of 10,000 sellers.

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When buying leather goods, particularly bags and slippers, check the lining as paper is often used instead of leather. I know this from personal experience.

Over the last twenty years it is harder to find real bargains and the shopkeepers have wised up to European prices and will often ask outrageous amounts for their goods. Be prepared to spend a lot of time to barter the price down to a third of the asking.

This is worth doing for the experience even though you will still probably find the equivalent item in a fixed price shop cheaper.

Still, an amazing city to visit. Wander round and get lost in the souks to soak up the atmosphere.

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Shopping in the souks is an experience that no one ever forgets. But it is a shopping experience quite unlike any other. In order to get the best from the souks, haggling and shopping around is a must as the sellers significantly inflate their initial price for an item you want. There are no hard and fast rules just walk away from a price you are not happy with, but at the same time keep a smile on your face! Remember no trader will ever sell at a loss! Also take a compass to find your way out again - it is so easy to get lost!

Just off the Djamma el Fna

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This government-run craft shop has a wide range of souvenirs available at fixed prices. Whilst they may be a bit more expensive than the souks, at least no haggling is needed and the quality is good.

Ensemble Artisanal, Avenue Mohammed V, not far from the Koutoubia Mosque.

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Don’t worry about getting lost in the souk: the bigger paths may lead you to somewhere recognisable or more interesting than you had planned – there is no point taking a map, just ask someone. People are very happy to help and the area is very safe.

If you do want a map, the Rough Guide to Marrakech is by far the best around.

Don’t hurry or worry, expect the culture shock and accept the offers of mint tea sans sugar.

Marrakech

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For textiles - bedspreads, cushions, clothes and lovely suede bags - there is a great factory just off the Rue de Banques: great quality, very friendly and they will make something to your own design. Art Ouerzazarte in the souk is a shop of the factory.

Rue de Banques, Marrakech

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The central square of Marrakech. It is fantastic, especially in the evening. Smoke rises up from the dozens of food stalls which all offer beautiful piles of vegetables, merguez sausages, kebabs, tagines and more. The cooks will call to you as you walk by, but take your time as you're protected by the watchful eye of the tourist police. When you've chosen, sit down and watch as they theatrically pour out mint tea for you. Bread and sauces are provided. Point out what you want cooked, and then prepare to be defeated. About £5 for much more than two people can eat.

In the daytime fresh juices are on offer. Orange for about 10p, mandarin/clementine for 20p.

The medina offers everything, from dried rose petals to the thuya wood ornaments, and sweets,but was the only place where I was groped and pestered.

And down the road from Djemaa el Fna (the Koutobia Mosque side) is a lovely hammam. Segregated times (so men go in the morning, and women in the afternoon). From Koutobia cross the main road as if you are going to Djemaa el Fna. Take the narrow side road, and follow it down. About 500m down on your left is the hammam. A very cheap, very interesting and relaxing experience.

The centre of Marrakech - you can't miss it.

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