http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32822 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32822 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31190 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31190 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31183 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31183 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/29463 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/29463 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28572 I'd recommend staying a week or more here and checking in to one of the many Riad's within the Medina. By doing this you will almost immerse yourself in Moroccan culture and way of life; it never ceases to amaze me. I'd start by exploring your neighbourhood and meeting some of the locals. Hello (Salam), Goodbye (Beslama), Please (Afak) and Thank You (Shukran) will always go a long way as many people only speak the local dialect, not English or French. Ask the owner or manager of your Riad where the local Hammam baths are; they are well worth a visit! Some may offer a massage for en extra few Dirham.
Before starting to haggle in the Souks it may be worth talking to other tourists and staff at the Riad about prices to expect to pay for goods. Shopkeepers will always try to take you for a ride - don't give in too easily - if the price is too high for you, walk away, they'll soon run after you. Be sure to spend plenty of time in the Souks, especially in the evening as everything lights up - it almost seems magical. Don't forget to enjoy a freshly prepared meal in the stalls at Djemaa el Fna and to take in the various forms of street entertainment. Djemaa el Fna transforms into a vibrant hub at night for both local people and tourists.
As for things to do, I personally recommend visiting the El Badi Palace and the Saadien Tombs - all for a bit of local history. The Majorelle Gardens are also well worth a visit, I'd go in the morning when it's slightly quieter. There is a cafe there, but prices are rather steep, so take water and a snack. If you have the time to explore outside of Marrakech, take a Taxi (approx 1 hr) to the waterfalls at Ourika Valley. Wear sensible shoes and hire a guide when you get there.
As for Cafes, Restaurants and Bar's here are my top 3: Cafe Bourgainvillea - situated within the souks, perfect for afternoon tea and very reasonably priced. Cafe Arabe, is a restaurant just a bit further on and serves delicious food. After your meal, sit up on the rooftop terrace and enjoy views across the city. Expect to pay prices similar to those in the UK. African Chic, is cocktail and lounge bar in the Gueliz - the new part of the city. Most evenings they have a great live band playing, it's perfect to enjoy a classy evening.
All that's left to say is to enjoy it. You won't forget the Marrakech experience in a hurry!!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28572 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27832
30km away from Fes is Sefrou (take a shared 'grand taxi' from Bab Ftouh), where Berbers come from outlying areas to ply their wares at the Thursday souq.

The same distance away from Marrakech, lies the town of Ourika (Dar Caid Ourika) which comes alive on Monday with everything from Berber haircuts to giant haystacks for sale. You can take a bus from behind the tourist police in Marrakech.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27832 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27827
The initial shock for me was how time-consuming the whole ceremony of haggling is, starting with polite chat about “Where are you from?”, “Where are you staying?”, and many more questions. All I had in my head was “How much is it!”. But after a while I got used to this and understood that it was a new cultural experience and a different ‘shopping’ experience - although certainly it was not as sweet as presented in the last instalment of SATC!

If you visit those two places as we did, I recommend practising your haggling in the less hectic and crowded Essaouira as the stall holders seemed to be more relaxed and happier to chat and talk. In Marrakech the souk was an absolutely crazy experience and the sellers are more ruthless about getting good prices out of tourists. In my view the items on sale in Marrakech were less stylish and interesting than those in Essaouira.

For those who cannot see themselves haggling, there are shops with fixed prices (but you still can haggle in them if you like!). The shop I bought my favorite earrings in was Chez Abdou in Marrakech. Nice and short haggling and they were mine for a decent price. (Or at least that is what I thought.)

To sum up I would recommend Essaouira for more stylish, unusual items (pottery, lamps and candle holders), whereas I personally found the jewellery shops more interesting in Marrakech.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27827 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19960
Once you pass through airport security you can only use your dirhams to spend on food in the cafes.
All the other shops including the duty free shops are NOT allowed to accept dirhams and only accept hard currency such as euros.

If you did have excess dirhams you can change these in the airport before you go through security.

Especially when the cigarettes are so cheap in the duty free shops, you'd be kicking yourself if all you have is dirhams to spend.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19960 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17768 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17768 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10455 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10455 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10446 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10446 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10403
If you do want a map, the Rough Guide to Marrakech is by far the best around.

Don’t hurry or worry, expect the culture shock and accept the offers of mint tea sans sugar.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10403 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10402 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10402 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4597
In the daytime fresh juices are on offer. Orange for about 10p, mandarin/clementine for 20p.

The medina offers everything, from dried rose petals to the thuya wood ornaments, and sweets,but was the only place where I was groped and pestered.

And down the road from Djemaa el Fna (the Koutobia Mosque side) is a lovely hammam. Segregated times (so men go in the morning, and women in the afternoon). From Koutobia cross the main road as if you are going to Djemaa el Fna. Take the narrow side road, and follow it down. About 500m down on your left is the hammam. A very cheap, very interesting and relaxing experience.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4597