Morocco
If you take a taxi to the Atlas Mountains (and why not, it's the best way to get there) check out the taxi's ability to climb hills. Ours conked out and rolled back into a ditch when faced with a steep hill...
...mind you the other option was the ravine, so we were lucky.
We thought it would be a good idea to rent bikes for a day and venture out to the Palmerai. Unfortunately, after cycling what seemed like the right number of kilometres in the requisite direction, we found nothing except for dusty building sites. Our time (and money!) would have been better spent catching a petit taxi to the palmeraie, or probably better, to one of the beach clubs to relax, rather than getting stressed out as motorbikes and cars whizzed past us, churning up dust. Not recommended!
We rented our bikes from a motorbike parking spot near the Hotel Ali, which is near the Place Djemaa Al Fna.
If it's daytime, and you are travelling within the medina or the New Town, insist the meter (le compteur) is on. It starts at about 1 dirham 60. If they say it's broken, tell them to stop and get out. There are lots of other taxis.
The only ones you negotiate with are the Grand taxis. Petit taxis only take three people. Taxis can be difficult to get during rush hours, 8 - 9.30, 12 - 2 (that’s when they change over drivers too) and 5 - 6.30.
At night, they charge 50% more. Rides in the medina are generally about six dirhams, from the New Town to the medina generally about ten dirhams.
Make sure you have small change.
Getting a taxi from the medina to the airport on the meter is about 25 dirhams, but getting one from the airport to the medina is negotiable. Published tarif is about 60 dirhams, but you may have to pay 100, depending on number of people and amount of luggage and time of day.
After that, how much you tip is up to you.
Negotiate a price first, particularly if going from the station to the Medina. There is a wide variation of prices when using the petit taxis.
Clean, comfortable, cheap and quick way to the coast, especially if travelling alone or in small group. 3 coaches a day leave from next to Marrakech railway stationn. Book at least an hourr before to ensure a seat. It was 65 dh (4 quid) one way at end of 2006. Takes 2.5 - 3 hours.
www.morocco-holidays.com/holidays/bus.htm
for timetable
We stayed at the Holiday Inn next to Casablanca's train station and then caught the train down to Marrakech. It was cheap and also really interesting. They run old French trains, which are in carriages for eight people, and we struck up conversation very easily.
Casablanca, Marrakech train stations
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
Search Been there
Your tips about Marrakech