First of all, be aware that in Morocco, you really have to go down south to explore the real Sahara. Forget about Western Sahara for safety reasons at the moment.
You can also, in my opinion, skip the Merzouga region. There are the highest dunes in Morocco but the place gets incredibly crowded.
Instead, you should try to go to the end of the Draa river to eventually discover the largest dunes of the country. The dunes inspired the famous movie maker Bernardo Bertolucci for his masterpiece “Tea in the Sahara”. I would rather get there by plane from Ouarzazate or Marrakech through the stunning High Altas route.
There in Mahmid, you will be able to find camel riders to take you through these stunning landscapes. Unforgettable experience and away from the crowd.

I booked this trip with Morocco For You, a Marrakech based travel agency.
www.morocco-for-you.com
Google map: bit.ly/eMoHM1

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Zagora was the perfect stepping off point into the desert, having rented a car in Marrakech and loaded with a map it took us a full day to arrive at Zagora which while we hadn't planned to actually go to, it just seemed to be the accumulation of following where the road took us.
We decided to stay at the la Perle du Draa hotel, it was basic but had a pool which in the middle of august was a massive plus to say the least.
It was hot and we struggled to sleep, with the wind coming in off the Sahara burning your nostrils and the back of your throat.
That said, without any form of preplanning, it was the adventure I had wanted so without complaining we got through the night, although my friend got up during the night and slept by the pool while I had to have more than one cold shower during the night!
This said it was the best holiday I have ever had, pure fun and excitement from the very first moment, cheap as chips, no fixed planning or being dragged around from pillar to post by organised tours.
With days spent in the oasis in Ouarzazate, with trips out to the dunes we couldn't have wanted for much more.
Rising early on the first morning to drive out to see the sunrise over the dunes was one of the most enlightening experiences I have ever had.
The hotel was basic, but the experience made it all the while worth doing.

www.perledudraa.ma/
Route de M’hamid km 4 de Zagora
+212 524 846 210
Google map: bit.ly/eEA20g

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Restored historic kasbah, just outside Ait Benhaddou, set among mountains and palm groves. Rooms are set around a cool tiled courtyard and terraces overlook the unspoilt countryside. Half-board is compulsory, with fantastic food cooked by the French chef owner, and there are also sometimes local musicians in the evening. Good value with double rooms from €84 per night (half board).

Kasbah Ellouze, Tamadaght, Ait Benhaddou, Ouarzazate
www.kasbahellouze.com

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The Mercure hotel in Ouarzazate is really stylish. The bar is a stunning mix of Moroccan tradition and modern style, with great views of the kasbah. The breakfast is really generous. The staff are incredibly friendly. And massages of 30 minutes were less than £10. It also only cost about £30 per night for two.

www.mercure.com
Boulevard Moulay Rachid
+212 24 899100

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If you want to buy a carpet in Morocco, pay a visit to the lovely kasbah at Ait Benhaddou (which has appeared in many films including Gladiator) and go to Said's shop. He sells every type of carpet and is responsible for the cooperative of women who make them. You are buying directly from the berber community who produce the carpets, normally Said sells to shop owners etc so you're cutting out the middle man. We got a lovely carpet for about £30 - bargain!

Kasbah Ait Benhaddou
said.talha@caramail.com

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