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The Sacred Music Festival is excellent and well worth the trip, but is difficult to get to due to the limited, expensive and indirect flights to Fes from the UK. A UK company called Naturally Morocco arranges tailored trips throughout Morocco, including the Sacred Music Festival. They suggest flying to Marrakesh (with train to Fes) because flights are cheaper and nonstop. They will arrange all of that and they have a great selection of riads to stay at. Whilst in the north, it is well worth having time to see some of the mountains, coast or another city.
You can buy tickets at www.fesfestival.com/2008/index.php
Dar Lazuli in Essaouira is a really tranquil, relaxing place to stay. It has a great location just inside the medina walls, a minute's walk from the beach, main square and cafes.
The riad is full of character and lovely white painted walls which just make the whole place feel full of light.
The beds are huge and really comfortable, and there are two terraces where you can sit and enjoy meals outside. Essaouira can be pretty windy and the terraces are really sheltered.
The Moroccan couple that look after Dar Lazuli are incredibly friendly, keep the place immaculate and can't do enough for you. Latifa can also cook delicious meals for you in your apartment which I thoroughly recommend!
Dar Lazuli
rue Moussa ben Noussair
Essaouira
www.darlazuli.co.uk
Riad Tizwa is a gem of a Moroccan guest house located in the medina, the historic centre of Marrakech. Stylishly reformed with many original touches, attentive and friendly English-speaking staff, this Riad stands out as a first class oasis to seek refuge to for mint tea and pampering after a tiring day in the hustle and bustle of the souks. There's even WiFi and a hammam.
Riad Tizwa Marrakech
website: www.riadtizwa.com
email: riadtizwam@gmail.com
Telephone UK :
+447973 238 444
or +447973 115 471
Telephone Marrakech :
+212 68 19 08 72
Dar Najat is a beautiful cosy riad located in the heart of the medina in Marrakech, just 5 minutes' walk from the famous square, Jema El Fna, which makes it an ideal place to stay! The owner and his team are clearly dedicated to making their guests feel at ease and create an environment full of fun but also very relaxing.
The rooms are clean (I stayed there a few times and have never been disappointed), comfortable and quiet, ideal after a busy day in the souks! Olivier is available most of the day to give you tips and organise a guided tour of Marrakech if you would like one. I also loved the fact that there is an outdoor jacuzzi on the terrace where you can enjoy a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice or a mint tea (the berber whisky! Yummmmy!). Breakfast is delicious and served by the smiley and friendly staff who are always there to help and make sure you get the best!
Forgot to mention dinner is also available on request and Souad, the chef, is a gem in terms of cooking! I definitely recommend the riad for any kind of travellers - young, older, married or single you will just have an unforgettable experience at Dar Najat. Thank you again, I'm coming back soon and with friends this time!
Dar Najat
No18 Derb Lalla Chacha
Douar Graoua Kennaria
40000 Marrakech Medina Maroc
Tel: 00212 243 75085
Fax: 00212 243 84699
www.black-zitoun.com
email: black_zitoun@yahoo.fr
A shop where you will not be pestered, hassled or pressured into buying anything. If you do not have a well-informed guide, do not go into any carpet shops unless you are prepared to buy one, as you will be invited to have tea, and then be subjected to intense sales pressure.
Just above the harbour
A little gem of a riad, family-run by an Italian-Moroccan couple. Beautiful courtyard with luxurious vegetation, it feels like you've travelled back in time, and you forget you're right in the centre of the medina, and 10 minutes away from the Djemaa el Fna. The welcome is warm and homely.
When the owners are around, you get a chance to exchange ideas and hear more about the country. We really enjoyed the extended breakfast under the Berber tent on the roof terrace, looking out on the mountains. Yummy dinners cooked by Latifa (including veggie) when we were too tired to go out. On the whole, we re definitely visiting again.
Cool riad in the heart of Marrakech's medina, five minutes' walk from Jemaa el Fna with Jacuzzi on roof, solarium, wi-fi, air conditioning, oriental gastronomy and a lovely team!
I have just returned from Marrakesh with two friends. We had gone for my 40th birthday. The Riad was the most relaxing place I have ever stayed in and immaculate. The staff were fantastic and sorted everything for us from one lost suitcase (left at Gatwick), trip to the Atlas Mountains, restaurant bookings and taxis etc. They were very patient and had great humour. I thought that the Riad offered a good price and would definitely like to use it again, all the guests were English and one had gone on the recommendation of another previous guest. For my birthday a beautiful floral arrangement was presented to me whilst having breakfast on the roof terrace! They do wonderful dinners and the staff are a real asset, hotels in the UK could learn heaps from them. If and when we go back when finances permit, I wouldn't even investigate any other Riads. It was in the heart of the medina and just 20 minutes by taxi from the airport (all transfers included) and less than five minutes' walk from the souks and restaurants/bars. You can also buy wine in the Riad which was a bonus! We were given unlimited complimentary mint tea and mineral water. Breakfast is included. There was an iPod docking station in the room, internet access downstairs and free Babouches (moroccan slippers) to use and then take home with us. Definitely worth a visit.
Riad Zolah
E-mail Address(es):
info@riadzolah.com
Web address: www.riadzolah.com
Tigmi was a complete nightmare. We arrived there after a sublime stay at the Kasbah de Toubkal and what a comedown it was. Service was appalling in every respect. The so-called spa offered only a handful of the treatments on the menu. The room was freezing and three heaters had to be hauled in before they could get one to work. They used cold water for the pedicure. But worse was yet to come... the heater in my niece's room burst into flames in the middle of the night and no-one came to help despite us all screaming and yelling. There were no fire extinguishers in the rooms. The owner's response? The heater was made in China. In my room, there was a leakage of water overnight flooding the whole room and staining my leather luggage. The owner's response? I must have left a tap on. They were quite defensive and accusatory. No discount was offered nor any apology. We were supposed to just shrug it off apparently - just as they did. The French manager is so arrogant it beggars belief. The only saving grace? The food was good and the beds were comfortable. A ghastly place stuck in the middle of an extremely poor village. Don't waste your time going there... and don't believe the brochure.
We were in Marrakech early March and found out that many pools were still closed because the temperature of the water is too cold.
We found a place called Caravan Serai just outside Marrakech with a heated pool. We took a taxi (about £10 return) and arrived in a very quiet, lovely place. It is a hotel with a couple of rooms and a decent size swimming pool. We had to pay to use the swimming pool for the day (£15), but this included a very nice lunch. Worth a visit if you want to chill out a day in hectic Marrakech.
What a fantastic place...we stayed here for a week and absolutely loved it.
Wonderful host and staff, the owner organised everything for us - restaurants, day trips, hammams, golf. Fatima prepared us several amazing dinners - the quail tagine with apricots and the beef tagine with prunes and almonds are out of this world!
The riad itself is gorgeous, with arches and columns, very clean and tastefully decorated. Was a wonderful escape from the mad bustle of the medina. We stayed in the room on the terrace, so cosy and snug, and with a big comfortable bed that was divine. The roof terrace was precious, hot and sunny, with stunning views of the Atlas mountains.
Can't recommend this riad highly enough for a stay in Marrakech.
29 Derb Bouelilou
Sidi Ben Slimane
Marrakech Medina
40000 Morocco
www.darzaman.com
+212 11 26 69 98
You can find great Indian curries on the street right behind the Djemma el Fna.
Riad Alma is a great Riad situated away from the hustle of the main medina of Marrakesh. The Riad is at the end of a quiet alley in the Kasbah or fortified area of the old town. It has been recently refurbished and is built around two courtyards. Michelline who runs the Riad does a commendable job in ensuring the pleasure of the guests.
Derb Kbala, Kasbah, Marrakesh
I went to Marrakech for a girls' holiday last weekend, for four days and it was terrible. I had been before with my husband and really enjoyed it, but this time the annoying experiences outweighed the good ones. We were harassed to the point of being sworn at in Djemaa el Fna’s souks, especially the shops near to the square. We had a good idea of how to bargain; they quote a price, you quarter it, and the haggling begins. This was possible in the souks further inside, but the shopkeepers nearer the square were so hot tempered and arrogant that we couldn't be bothered to explore half the time.
Also, at the weekends, medicine is impossible to find. I fell ill and every pharmacy I walked past was closed. When I asked the hotel where I could find one that was open, they directed me to a pharmacist (a short walk away) and told me to read the sign showing which pharmacies were open. But not knowing French made it impossible to decipher this list. I walked 20 minutes in one direction with a hotel bellboy (who I requested to come with), only to find the pharmacy had closed down. And shops and supermarkets sell everything from TVs to nappies, but no aspirin or paracetamol! Our hotel was useless in this situation and showed no sympathy or support.
On our last night one of my friends was robbed as we were waiting for a taxi. Two young boys came up to her and with a knife while she was holding her camera, she gave it immediately. We tried to call for help but we didn't know who to trust. After making our way back to the hotel, the receptionist couldn't even call the police and ask them to come to the hotel to take a report (for insurance). Instead we were advised to get a taxi to the police station (bear in mind we didn't want to go back out because we all felt angry and upset). Having spent an hour in the police station we couldn’t wait to get back to London. We know robberies take place everywhere but the lack of support, care and sympathy in Marrakech was outrageous!
If you take a taxi to the Atlas Mountains (and why not, it's the best way to get there) check out the taxi's ability to climb hills. Ours conked out and rolled back into a ditch when faced with a steep hill...
...mind you the other option was the ravine, so we were lucky.
Our last trip to Marrakesh allowed us to get to know the city more and we are here now to share some of our tips we hope you'll find useful.
If you want to see more of the city, take the guided bus tours. These buses have just been introduced in recent years. They are red, double-deck buses and offer continuous tours throughout the day. Get a 24-hour hopper ticket and you can get off at major stops that take you to Djamaa Lfna, Menara, Saadieen Toms, Koutoubia, Bahia palace, Median, etc. The buses are equipped with recorded messages in multiple languages that provide major highlights of the bus route.
The horse carts might charge more, but have that leisurely stroll around town. May not cover as much of the city as the bus tours. You can however ask the cart person for a short tour that your bus did not cover.
As far as where to visit, start with Djemaa el-Fna or assembly place of the nobodies. This is the centre point of Marrakesh. It is a large square where many of the budget hotels and souks are located. In the evening, there are rows of open-air food stalls, jugglers, snake charmers, storytellers and magicians. Around the square there are rooftop cafes and restaurants with balconies, where you can watch the entire spectacle.
On the other side of the square outside Median walls is the Bahia Palace. It was built in the 19th century as a residence of the grand minister of one of the sultans. It has wonderful gardens, fountains and a shady courtyard. The walls are decorated with Moroccan mosaics, and hand-crafted artwork.
To the front of the square is the Koutoubia mosque. It is the tallest (70m) and most famous landmark in Marrakesh, and is visible for miles in any direction.
The bus tours will also tale you to the Menara garden, which is the most popular among the Marrakshis because it is peaceful and relaxing. It houses the oldest and best-preserved of the three most famous minarets, as well as the largest.
There are many other places we could not see such as The Saadian Tombs, Majorelle Gardens... but I recommend that you don't miss Ali Benmalah or what many call Chez Ali: an impressive memorable Fantasia Show, acrobat, traditional Moroccan folk dance and a dinner fit for a king. A traditional event, it includes an opportunity to see the Berber folklore, the jugglers' performance, the flying carpet, the belly dancing and finally the Fantasia show.
www.ilove-marrakesh.com/chezali/
We had our hotel reservation made through www.asiarooms.com/ which we found offer very good deal on five-star hotels, just make sure you book way in advance.
The bus tour company does not have a site, but was recommended to us by hotel staff, you can't miss it if you ask, some hotels sell their tickets.
We took our daughter aged six months to Marrakech and were surprised by the number of friends and fellow travellers who commented on how brave we were. What they didn't perhaps realise was that a baby or small child is like a passport to the real Morocco.
We (or more accurately our daughter Emily) were treated like VIPs and invited into homes, given tips on how to survive the souks and all because we'd been cunning enough to come with a child! Kids make travelling easier, if you have the right attitude.
Marrakech generally
Having been driven nuts by incessant requests to buy something or taste food at Jemma El-Fna I pulled my mobile and pretended I was talking. People are much less likely to pester you. Obvious, but I've seen a many distressed tourist trying to untangle themselves from the charms of 10,000 sellers.
For some reason or other, superstition or plain dislike of being actors in our holiday snaps, Moroccans hate being photographed. Makes any street photography a nightmare, although most people prefer to quietly step away or lurk in the shade as opposed to making a scene. If you need a close-up portrait, do ask and expect a request for money. I strongly suggest not tipping even at the expense of not having that colourful mint seller in your album. Some folks do agree to be photographed for nothing, but bizzarely, while tuning my lens on one seller I had a policeman coming by and checking that I've got my subject's consent. Children on streets are ready to put a price tag on their father's footprints, so expect some young chap proudly demanding a price. Gently send them away.
Argan oil is highly prized, used both in cooking and cosmetics. Some funny legends about goats - do ask. Shops in Morocco are full of it, but stories abound about fake or diluted products. You can go directly to places where argan nuts are shelled and milled. The cooperatives - usually run by women - are everywhere on the road from Essaouira to Marrakech. On recommendation from my hotel I went quite far - to Cooperative Feminine Argan El Farah in Hanchan, a 25-minute drive from E'ra. Don't know if I needed to go that far, but they had a girl with passable English, which doesn't happen everywhere, so I could ask questions. This was the only place where I could take photos of people at work, more importantly, women at work (they're kind of invisible otherwise). Drivers at the grand-taxi station in E'ra were proposing to take me there for 450 dhrs (30 quid!), but I haggled it down to 150 round-trip and 30 mins waiting (walk away until you really get it your way is one technique). So I talked to the coop lady, took my photos and they gave me a taste of the oil for cooking and some wonderful paste made with argan oil, almonds and honey. Be prepared for a bit of shock when shopping begins. Even at producers level it ain't cheap at all - 250 ml bottle of oil - cooking or massage - is about 10 quid, the paste costs the same. I've reasoned myself with thoughts of the money going directly to the people who work and not to 100 re-sellers in the chain.
El Hanchan, on the main road from Essaouira to Marrakech or any coop closer to E'ra
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