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        <title>Been there | Tips</title>
        
        <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/</link>
        
        <description>
            Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love,
            live in or have just visited - are what make this guide.
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                <title>Riad Tizwa in Fes</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20485</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[This is a rather stylish, calm riad in the best part of the Medina owned by two Scottish brothers who have cornered the market in Moroccan hospitality (they also have  a property in Marrakech). The house has been painstakingly restored and tastefully decorated to include 21st century five star comforts without compromising on local craftsmanship and details.<br><br>Riad Tizwa Fes is a  personal and intimate Moroccan townhouse with charming and welcoming English speaking staff containing nine double bedrooms and WIFI in all the rooms. This place is an oasis we will definitely return to again and again !]]></description>
                
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                <title>Tangier day trip from Gibraltar</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20344</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[If you're staying in Gibraltar you might as well hop on the ferry and spend a day in Tangier, Morocco.<br><br>You could go there on your own, but it's probably best if you book a tour from Gibraltar. Loads of tour companies do the Tangier tour - they charge different prices and some of the tours are from the Spanish side, so you should check the itinerary to see whether they pick you up at the hotel or you have to make your way to the port (it's about 30-40 minutes' drive). <br><br>Once you land in Tangier, you'll be driving all sorts of places - I suspect some places are run by relations of the guides and they try to sell you goods whether you want them or not. I'm not saying you shouldn't buy - small items are good, but be careful how much you pay!]]></description>
                
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                <title>Riad Maizie</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20305</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Riad Maizie is a stunningly restored riad in the heart of the Marrakech medina owned by the author Miranda Innes. It is five minutes' walk from the main souks and 10 from Djemaa Fna, and is the perfect tranquil spot to retreat to after a long day of shopping and sightseeing. The English manager James was very helpful and very knowledgeable about what to do in Marrakech (and how much to pay). <br><br>They have five beautiful rooms to stay in, a lovely roof terrace and the traditional Moroccan meals were very good (especially the lamb and prune tagine).]]></description>
                
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                <title>Cheap eats in Essaouira</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20160</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[I have stayed several times with my in-laws in Essaouira so have learned some tricks on how to eat the best food cheaply (and stay well). <br><br>The best option is some form of self-catering to take advantage of the amazingly fresh fish, fruit and vegetables on sale in the local market in the medina. Shopping is a really fun, exciting experience and the locals will not rip you off. <br>The fishmongers will prepare the fish for a small fee. <br><br>Anything you cook from such brilliant ingredients, even if it is just salad and grilled fish, will taste brilliant. <br><br>The one and only off-license shuts at 8pm every day and is located just outside the medina at the north entrance. <br><br>For breakfast (if you don't mind the potential calories) everybody universally agrees the best is Patisserie Driss just at the rear corner of the main square. Get there before 11am for the best choice of French pastries, fresh orange juice and good coffee. <br><br>For snacks, the takeaway pizza stands near Driss are all good. <br><br>If you want a more elaborate, heavy, traditional Moroccan meal, visit one of the small restaurants in the 'dog leg' off the main square, near the carpet shops. All offer standard set menus with tagine, traditional Harira, etc. All are roughly the same standard and price (although I've recently heard bad things about Petit Pearl). <br><br>If you like fish don't miss the cafe at the back of the fish market. You buy your fish then pay them to cook it for you. If doesn't get fresher than that! <br><br>Avoid fish stalls around the port, well known to serve old manky fish to tourists and responsible for many a tummy upset.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Dar Aqiba</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20131</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[An amazing house (dar) in the medina. It's been beautifully restored by the very friendly owner Maria. During our stay in the house we were looked after by an amazing and friendly housekeeper Attaib. This place really has that wow factor and was a real 'home' to return to after a day in the bustle of the medina. <br><br>Meals can be prepared for you by a neighbour and it really is worth taking up this offer as her food was some of the best we had at some of the best prices!]]></description>
                
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                <title>Chefchaouen</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20112</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[A small andalusian-style nestling high up in the Rif mts. Charming old walled medina founded 1472. For those wanting peace &amp; calm (unlike Fez &amp; Marrakesh). I recommend as a fine holiday stop-off &amp; not only because I'm the British Consular Warden ( with house to rent)...!]]></description>
                
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                <title>Spana centre</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20065</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Spana (Society for the protection of animals abroad) works hard to provide veterinary care for donkeys, mules and horses in Marrakech. If you are interested in their work and in making a contribution to their coffers, it is worth a visit to their centre at Cite Mohammadi Daoudiat where they will show you what they do - and where you will be able to see some of the animals at first hand. There are also cats and dogs in need of adoption. If visiting, do bear in mind that it is not a place of family entertainment but of care and veterinary treatment for poorly animals. If, like us, you saw many mules and donkeys in the city that were overworked and undernourished, why not give something back by contributing to this extremely worthy organisation?]]></description>
                
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                <title>M'Riste Jouhar restaurant</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20064</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[This new restaurant serves delicious Moroccan food (by the cook formerly at Villa Maroc) in beautiful, simple surroundings. The chicken pastilla was by far the best we tasted anywhere on our trip - deliciously moist and worth going there just for this. This is a small restaurant which means we were able to pick and choose from all the various menus rather than feeling bound by one particular set menu. Very reasonable prices too. We got a table for two without reserving but as it becomes better known it may be preferable to book ahead, especially for larger parties. It's down a little street not far from Les Alizes (which was also an excellent restaurant choice).]]></description>
                
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                <title>Patisserie Al Jawda</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20063</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[This great little patisserie and juice shop is on Rue Dabachi about 50 metres west of Chez Chegrouni (the NW corner of Djemma el-Fna) - the sign is in Arabic only but you'll know it's the one because it's just at the corner of Route Kennaria D. It is open all day but particularly humming with life at about 10-11pm. Join the locals in choosing what to have in your freshly made smoothie/milkshake. Try milk and almonds (lait et amandes), or peach and plum (peche et prune), or a mix (panache - pronounced panashee). Ask for it without sugar if you prefer (sans sucre).  The fruit is wonderful. They also do pastries, yoghurts with fruit etc. And they'll make up boxes of Moroccan mini-pastries for you to take home for your friends - a big box holds up to 500g (the cost is very reasonable - think it was 60 dirhams per half kilo). Smoothies and milkshakes are around 9 dirhams each - excellent value even by Moroccan standards. And the staff were very friendly - we became evening regulars and were quite sad to leave. Why doesn't someone set one of these up in London?]]></description>
                
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                <title>Dealing with hassle</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20062</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[There are lots of young men who will accost you as you walk around Marrakech and try to act as your guide to take you to wherever you are going and then demand a fee. This is particularly so once you leave the main square and are heading out to somewhere less easy to find - for example the Bahia Palace, or the Dar Zellij restaurant. Be aware too that some of them will pretend that somewhere is closed when it is not, or will send you off on the wrong direction in order then to get one of their friends to set you right. This is a great shame because it means that, rather than interacting with people, you sometimes have to blank them or even pretend to speak a different language. If you do need directions to somewhere it may be preferable to ask a woman or an older man or a storekeeper - they are more likely to give you accurate directions out of common courtesy without then wanting to accompany you or expecting money in return. If you do end up being accompanied by a 'faux guide' against your will, you may want to explain that you are happy to talk to them along the way but do not wish to have a guide and will not be paying them any money if they accompany you. At least that way, when you reach your destination, you can feel comfortable sticking to your guns and refusing to pay - though be prepared to be pestered repeatedly and to have to hold your resolve. Of course there may be no harm giving a few coins to a boy who has taken some time to get you to the right place, but they should not expect to charge more than this and should be prepared to give you correct and honest information for free.  So when one lad demanded 20 dirhams (more than a taxi fare across town) just for telling us which door on the street we were looking for we robustly refused - pour decourager les autres.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Epic Morocco to High Atlas and Essaouira</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20056</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Trekking in the High Atlas Mountains<br><br>Just got back from a great trip to Marrakech, the High Atlas Mountains and Essaouira in Morocco. The trip was organised by a great locally-based company called Epic Morocco. We just gave them a rough idea of what we wanted to do and they organised a private tour including a three-day trek from Setti Fatma to Imlil with a trekking guide. These people are on the scene and they really know the best places to stay.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Le Pilotis - Tahiti Beach Club</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19977</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Le Pilotis is a bar/restaurant on the Corniche with wonderful views of the sea. Le Corniche is a beach promenade 5km west of Casablanca.<br><br>Le Pilotis was a complete contrast to what we saw earlier in the day in the medina of Casablanca and would not look out of place in Marbella. It is where the 'beautiful people' of Casablanca come yet to our UK pockets was not that expensive. It's fascinating to watch these people and there's wine and mediterranean food as well as some good music. <br><br>Plenty of seafood restaurants out here in the Corniche but one place we'd recommend is Le Pilotis.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Art Deco in Casablanca</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19976</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[The Cathedrale du Sacre Coeur on Boulevard Rachidi is an example of an art deco church. Designed in the 1930s, it is all the more remarkable when you consider that Casablanca is in an Islamic country.<br><br>Unfortunately when we went there the church looked  like it had been long closed. On Avenue Hassan II there is an Art Deco post office where even the letterboxes are tiled.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Rick's Cafe</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19961</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[OK... the famous 1942 movie Casablanca wasn't filmed in Morocco but on a Hollywood set.<br>However this bar/restaurant was based on the original set designs and really makes you believe you are sitting where Bogart ran his 'gin joint'.<br>A former US diplomat Kathy Kriger is behind this enterprise.<br><br>And yes... the pianist does play 'As Times Goes By'!]]></description>
                
                <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19961</guid>
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                <title>Use of Moroccan currency in Marrakech airport</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19960</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Departing from Marrakech airport: <br><br>Once you pass through airport security you can only use your dirhams to spend on food in the cafes. <br>All the other shops including the duty free shops are NOT allowed to accept dirhams and only accept hard currency such as euros.<br><br>If you did have excess dirhams you can change these in the airport before you go through security. <br><br>Especially when the cigarettes are so cheap in the duty free shops, you'd be kicking yourself if all you have is dirhams to spend.]]></description>
                
                <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19960</guid>
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                <title>Le Tanjia restaurant</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19959</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[One of the few restaurants in the medina that serves alcohol. The food was nice but to be honest the food in many of the places surrounding Djemma El Fna was equally nice and cheaper.]]></description>
                
                <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19959</guid>
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                <title>Jewish quarter</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19958</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Worthwhile checking out the old Jewish quarter in the Mellah area in the south of the medina. The number of Jews in the area now numbers about 260 compared to more than 15,000 at the turn of the century.<br><br>You can see the evidence with the  occasional Star of David and Hebrew lettering on buildings. There are still three active synagogues out of nearly 30. For a few coins the local kids will show you where the working synagogues are.]]></description>
                
                <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19958</guid>
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                <title>Café Extrablatt</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19955</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[For a totally different view of Marrakech not too far from the medina walls - this is a cafe serving coffee, tea, soft drinks and light snacks. As with most places within Marrakech this place does not serve alcohol.<br><br>The Hivernage is a neighbourhood of nice villas and five-star hotels so Café Extrablatt is an interesting contrast to the relative poverty of the medina. Watch as the customers pull up in their 4x4s dressed in their western fashions. Still not expensive from a western point of view but interesting to people-watch.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Cafe des Epices</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19954</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Pleasant spot in souks area for a refreshing soft drink or light snack (sorry no alcohol as with most places within the medina!). You can sit on the roof terrace watching over the spice souk. Young and friendly staff.]]></description>
                
                <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19954</guid>
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                <title>Train tickets from Casablanca to Marrakech</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19953</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[We travelled from Casablanca to Marrakech on second class tickets. Very crowded and some people had to stand in corridors during the three-hour jouney.<br><br>In hindsight we should have booked first class tickets a day or two before. First class does not cost that much more (Train fares are very cheap compared to UK fares). When we bought our tickets on the day of travel, the first class tickets were sold out.]]></description>
                
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