When you arrive in Kathmandu you will probably be ushered into a rather uncomfortable taxi and choke your way around hectic roads to one of the world's greatest tourist bubbles: Thamel. In this square mile of the city tourists have everything they could ever want. The narrow roads and alleyways are a maze of knitted goods, fake trekking gear, coffee shops, pizza places, internet cafes and hustlers. But don't be fooled. This introduction to Kathmanduis misleading. The city is crammed full with atmosphere, beauty, genuine culture and incredible architecture.
 
Wandering around Kathmandu is to walk back in time. Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan and Bhaktapur are the areas you want to head for to soak up this ancient charm. These areas are labyrinths of crumbling red brick and intricately carved wooden temples, palaces and shrines, all jumbled together in spaces that were once kingdoms of their own. And in lots of ways, they still are. Time has not eroded the purpose of these central points. Women still come to wash at the giant stone wells, old men still meet on palace steps to contemplate life, rice is still gathered and sorted at harvest and families still gather to present gifts and sacrifices to their gods.

The city is also full of intriguing religious sites, Nepal being a unique part of the world in which Buddhism and Hinduism co-exist. Pashupatinath lies in the East of the city and is the holiest Hindu site in Nepal. Here you can stumble your way through a haze of shrines, temples, cows and monkeys until you descend onto the ghats on the shore of the BagmatiRiver. A twenty minute saunter through urban sprawl and farming settlements will bring you to Boudhanath, one of the world's largest Stupas. In stark contrast to its Hindu counterpart, this area is a haven of Buddhist art, monks, mantras and peace. 
 
If culture and religion is not your thing then fear not. There are a surprising number of luxurious bolt holes in the city where one can spend a day or two lounging by a pool, eating the finest of Nepali cuisine and enjoying Indian massages. And then there's always shopping. Nepalnot only has its own impressive craftsmanship but is also home to many Tibetan refugees who have to craft their way to a living. Carpets, cashmere clothes, woolen goods, suits, silks, puppets, masks, bronze and turquoise are just a few of the delights you can find in the markets of Kathmandu.

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