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The most beautiful town in the Kathmandu valley, Bhaktapur has a huge collection of beautiful temples which are a must-see. The area is closed to traffic, so everything is kept in excellent condition.
The entrance fee is a bit steep for Westerners, in comparison to prices in the rest of Nepal (800 Rupees, approximately £7), but definitely worth it. Apparently, this is where some of the film Little Buddha was shot.
Ask any taxi in Kathmandu to take you to Bhaktapur
Go to the Buddhist Stupa in Bodha, northeast from Kathmandu centre. It's a bit difficult to find, due to Nepal's lack of street signs, but once you're there it's a fantastic spot to watch Buddhist monks go about their usual business and just to contemplate life and the world in general. There's also a great restaurant run by an Italian lady where you can get a huge plate of vegetable chowmein for 15 Nepali Rupees, approximately 8 pence.
Northeast of Kathmandu town centre
When travelling or trekking in sensitive places use a solar powered battery charger for cameras/ipods/gps to avoid battery waste – some treks in Nepal are littered with old AAs, and there’s no need nowadays. Solio sell a really neat foldaway one for about £50.
A beautiful temple like many in Kathmandu but this one is inhabited by hundreds of monkeys that will jump at you and bite you if you catch their eye or annoy them as you try to climb the many steps on the way to the top. It is great fun and the views from the top of the city are breathtaking. Ask a rickshaw driver to take you there.
Swayambhunath temple, Kathmandu, Nepal
Tour company based in Kathmandu running escorted tours in Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet. Run by the indefatigable Shiva Dhakal for whom nothing is too much trouble. Very reliable and utterly professional - they're used by some of the international adventure tour companies to run services for them. Go direct, save yourself some money and put more of your stirling/dollars/euros etc into the local economy. We found them on www.responsibletravel.com
Royal Mountain Travel
P.O.Box: 8720
Durbar marg (Yak & Yeti Hotel entry road)
Kathmandu, Nepal
Phone: +977-1-4215364-5 / +977-1-4215371
Fax: +977-1-4215372
Mobile: 00977 - 9851021560
e-mail: royalmt@mos.com.np
e-mail: rmtrek@wlink.com.np
www.royalmt.com.np
www.royal-mt-trek.com
Probably the best pizzeria in Asia, and almost the world! I don't just say this because I was starved in Tibet and would have eaten anything. Instead, I lived in Kathmandu for 3 years and Fire and Ice never once failed me. We (and most other expats including Italians) used to go at least 3 times a week. Not only are the pizzas out of this world, but the atmosphere is great and the service is brisk and friendly. The place is always full of diplomats, NGO workers, Nepali and Indian families, Tibetan monks, mountaineers on their way to or back from the mountain, anthropologists etc. Run by an Italian lady, who has the Parmesan made in Lhasa. Unforgettable!
Sanchaya Kosh Bldg. 219, Tridevi Marg, Kathmandu (just at the entrance to Thamel, behind the carpark. Everyone knows it); tel: 01/250210
The most luscious and incredible curry in the world. Only two exist in the world, one in Delhi and the other in Kathmandu. The food is traditionally from north Punjab and blends foods from the border of India and Nepal, wholesome, meaty and very, very delicious. The naans are big enough to cover a table; the meat is so, so tender and delicious with tempting spices. Whenever l am in Delhi or Kathmandu l always go ... a full refund from me if you dislike it.
Soaltee Crowne Plaza; tel: 771 427 3999; www.soaltee.crowneplaza.com/dining/di03a.html
Swayambhunath is a Buddhist stupa atop a hill in the Kathmandu valley. It's best to get there before sunrise - you'll be unlikely to meet any other tourists, just crowds of Nepali and Tibetan people. Swayambhu is a hive of activity at this time, with chanting, meditation and worship playing alongside the pre-school karate class, police training up those steep steps, earnest young men doing their exercises, the games of the monkeys and dogs.
It's a wonderful place at any time, but I think you see it at its best and most natural at sunrise. Beautiful light for photography too, if that's your thing. And there's a lovely view across the Kathmandu valley. If you fancy a walk, there's a lovely peaceful monastery at the top of the next hill along.
It's an easy walk from the centre, but you could also take a bus from Sohrakhutte, or find a taxi. Ask to be dropped at the bottom of the steps, rather than at the top. Then walk up to the stupa
The land of Hindu animal sacrifices. Nepalis lead their offering to the slaughter tenderly, often whispering prayers in the animal’s ears and sprinkling its heads with water to help it shrug its assent. It is an amazing insight into their culture, if not a bit bloody.
While you are in the area, also visit the Buddhist monastery and Hindu temples. The locals are incredibly friendly. There are also a few hotels, if you stay overnight you can hear the beautiful sounds of chanting and large horns coming from the monastery. It is far more relaxed than Thamel.
You can take the tourist bus or just get a taxi. The action takes place on Saturday mornings from 6am, unless there is a Hindu festival, in which case the sacrifices happen all week.
Thamel's best kept secret (till now) ... Sam's Bar - run by Sam and his Austrian wife - is a great place to chill out and meet locals, backpackers, climbers, overlanders and loads of other interesting people. If you're lucky you'll start with a Sam special and who knows where it'll go from there!
Upstairs opposite the Hotel Mandap in Thamel
Have you ever wanted to be surrounded by snow-capped mountains? To face a challenge where the only path is a 5416 metre mountain pass? To smell the purest fresh air and eat the most delicious apple crumble? The Annapurna Circuit is an absolutely stunning trek through the Nepalese Himalayas. I would recommend this to anyone who enjoys the beauty of a landscape. It is a challenge; a physically and mentally exhausting 21 days but it was worth every blister and every tear shed along the way.
I went to Nepal, a lone 26-year-old female, with one goal in mind - the circuit. I was on a limited budget, so decided against a tour company, guide or porter. It was just me and my backpack at the start of my adventure but at the end I was surrounded by close friends and many happy smiling faces.
I am not recommending doing what I did; I was extremely lucky to find a group of travellers and a guide on the bus to the drop off point, Besisahar. Without these people I would not have made it, I owe my entire experience and possibly my life to those friends and Amore, a local guide from Pokhara. Amore had one client on the trek but took us all under his wing. Having many years of experience on the trail he took us to the best tea houses with the cheapest rates, he held our hands and led us down slippery ‘extremely icy downs’, he always had a smile on his face and a tune to dance to and by knowing the mountains he had every confidence that we would make the pass. Making the pass became more and more important each day we walked. Fellow trekkers were returning from the higher altitude with news that snow had closed the pass, making it too dangerous to cross. With this in mind, the group was scared, it seemed impossible to turn around on this path after we had got so far. Amore had no doubt. The pass day included a huge ascent up fresh snow and an early start in the pitch black freezing hours of the morning. Without Amore, if I had got this far on my own, I would have had no idea of what to do or where to go. That day was one of my best and worst days of my life. It was like the weather held out until that very moment when we reached 5416 metres, the beauty of sunlight glistening on the perfect white snow with a clear blue sky and incredible mountain scenery vanished. The descent was greeted by a blizzard and the snow became muddy slush, an absolute nightmare. However, this is not a story of my adventures on the trail. It is a recommendation for you to have your own adventures on the Annapurna Circuit. If you start like I did, then I send you the best of luck but if you want to be a little bit more prepared and make the most of your trek, send Amore a Facebook message- he might even invite you round for some ‘garlic buttered chicken curry!’
Annapurna Circuit, Nepal. Catch a bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara. Here you can chill out, learn Buddhism, paraglide or meet up with Amore for a Rakshi while you sort out trekking permits and snacks for the journey. Then it's a bus ride to Besisahar to start your adventure.
Amore: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000376132034&sk=wall#!/profile.php?id=100000376132034&sk=wall
Google map: bit.ly/wOQ4wB
Have you ever wanted to be surrounded by snow-capped mountains? To face a challenge where the only path is a 5416 metre mountain pass? To smell the purest fresh air and eat the most delicious apple crumble? The Annapurna Circuit is an absolutely stunning trek through the Nepalese Himalayas. I would recommend this to anyone who enjoys the beauty of a landscape. It is a challenge; a physically and mentally exhausting twenty-one days but it was worth every blister and every tear shed along the way. I went to Nepal, a lone 26-year-old female, with one goal in mind - the circuit. I was on a limited budget, so decided against a tour company, guide or porter. It was just me and my backpack at the start of my adventure but at the end I was surrounded by close friends and many happy smiling faces.
I am not recommending doing what I did; I was extremely lucky to find a group of travellers and a guide on the bus to the drop off point, Besisahar. Without these people I would not have made it, I owe my entire experience and possibly my life to those friends and Amore, a local guide from Pokhara. Amore had one client on the trek but took us all under his wing. Having many years of experience on the trail; he took us to the best tea houses with the cheapest rates; he held our hands and led us down slippery ‘extremely icy downs’; he always had a smile on his face and a tune to dance to; and by knowing the mountains he had every confidence that we would make the pass. Making the pass became more and more important each day we walked. Fellow trekkers were returning from the higher altitude with news that snow had closed the pass, making it too dangerous to cross. With this in mind, the group was scared, it seemed impossible to turn around on this path after we had got so far. Amore had no doubt. The pass day included a huge ascent up fresh snow and an early start in the pitch black freezing hours of the morning. Without Amore, if I had got this far on my own, I would have had no idea of what to do or where to go. That day was one of my best and worst days of my life. It was like the weather held out until that very moment when we reached 5416 metres, the beauty of sunlight glistening on the perfect white snow with a clear blue sky and incredible mountain scenery vanished. The descent was greeted by a blizzard and the snow became muddy slush, an absolute nightmare. However, this is not a story of my adventures on the trail; this is a recommendation for you to have your own adventures on the Annapurna Circuit. If you start like I did, then I send you the best of luck but if you want to be a little bit more prepared and make the most of your trek, send Amore a Facebook message- he might even invite you round for some ‘garlic buttered chicken curry!’
Annapurna Circuit, Nepal. Catch a bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara. Here you can chill out, learn Buddhism, paraglide or meet up with Amore for a Rakshi while you sort out trekking permits and snacks for the journey. Then it's a bus ride to Besisahar to start your adventure.
Amore: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000376132034&sk=wall#!/profile.php?id=100000376132034&sk=wall
Pokhara is a place of remarkable natural beauty. The serenity of Phewa Lake and the magnificence of the fishtailed summit of Machhapuchhre (6,977 m) rising behind it create an ambience of peace and magic. At an elevation lower than Kathmandu, it has a much more tropical feel to it, a fact well appreciated by the beautiful diversity of flowers which prosper in its environs. Indeed, the valley surrounding Pokhara is home to thick forests, gushing rivers, emerald lakes, and of course, the world famous views of the Himalaya.
www.nepaltoursdestination.com
www.friendshiptravels.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/342ovzu
The old square in Patan is beautiful. The museum is tranquil and a nice place for food. There are many cafes on the rooftops around the square for drinks/meals in the evening.
www.world-heritage-tour.org/asia/south-asia/nepal/kathmandu/patan/map.html
Hotel comprising separate chalets huddled on a hill with spectacular mountain views. Run by Sita and her husband with real affection and friendliness. They can organise treks (the hotel has been used by Everest teams) and will ply you with good local food and ensure you get up in time to catch the mind-blowing sunrises.
The Fort Resort - Nagarkot (City Office)
P O Box 3004, Lazimpat, KTM
Tel: 977 1 4432 960 / 4432 964 fax: 977 1 4432 958
e-mail: fort@mos.com.np
You either get a visa from your local embassy or make sure you have a passport photo, $30 dollars, a pen, and the form in arrivals. You can get a form from the Nepal embassy website in advance. There are computers in the terminal but it's all done by hand so be patient.
The Kathmandu Guesthouse is a Thamel institution. Rooms are clean and comfy and though they are not the chepest rooms in Kathmandu it's a lovely place with really friendly, helpful staff and a very chilled atmosphere. You can organise tours and change money - there is an ATM there too.
Thamel
www.ktmgh.com
Tel: 977 1 4700 800
Far Out Nepal is a small local trekking company that can organise treks, cultural trips or any kind of trip you would like to take in Nepal. They are really fantastic to deal with and on-the-ground arrangements are first class. My friend and I trekked to Everest base camp with them - two middle aged ladies - and they looked after us so well, to the point of providing hot water bottles when it got cold! They have now organised us a trip to Tibet, with a few days in the south of Nepal, a jungle adventure. Their prices are amazing, and even though your flights might cost a bit more to book independently, your trip will still be cheaper than going with another trekking company. I can highly recommend you contact Sunir in Kathmandu.
Vast amounts of stuff are on sale in Kathmandhu's bazaar - from masala tea to tie-dye T-shirts and all the tat, trinkets and treasures in between. But for bored chaps doomed to drag themselves after their shopaholic other halves, this is the place to come and buy a kukri, a traditional Gurkha knife.
Avoid the cheap and nasty ones on the market stands and try to find this marvellous little shop; there's a variety of different suberbly-crafted designs and the owner will gladly talk you through every detail.
Saat Ghumti, Thamel,
Kathmandu
Tel: 00 977 1470 1314
www.thekhukurihouse.com or www.khukurihouseonline.com
It might well have been because the week leading up to my visit had been extraordinarily tough, but this hotel was a godsend.
Greeted by musicians in Tibetan dress, you enter the main lobby decorated by miniature stupas: from the enormous main window you can see the eyes of the Boudannath peeping over the rooftops.
Fantastic buffet and underground bar too, all for about £70 a night.
PO Box 9609, Taragaon, Boudha, Kathmandu Tel: 00 977 1 4491234
kathmandu.regency.hyatt.com/
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