The archetype of a brown cafe, with a good selection of beers and cosily 'gezellig', despite its proximity to Leidseplein, it's a retreat from the lager louts.

Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 86
0031 206248901

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For unique and panoramic views over the city, within ten minutes walking distance of the station, visit the Metz cafe on the top floor of the Metz department store - and enjoy wonderful coffee and cakes at the same time!

Keizersgracht 455

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Academie OT301, the former Netherlands Film Academie, is a legalized squat featuring two large performance/rehearsal spaces, a cinema, cafe and gallery space with cultural activities and events. Check it out for the mega-cheap organic vegan restaurant. A meal costs €5 but must be reserved from 4pm on the day; dinner is served at 7pm.

Overtoom 301

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Find ‘De Erste Klasse’ on platform 2b of Amsterdam Central Station and be infused with years of rail travel atmosphere. This huge late 19th century wood paneled brassiere is the epitome of European railway romanticism: think ‘Brief Encounter’ without the tea urn.

Central Station

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Café Du Prins is a wonderful slice of Dammer life, on the Western fringe of central Amsterdam. When I visited, we popped in each morning as we strolled along the canals into the city, stopping by for a strong coffee, a glass of freshly-squeezed orange juice, or one of those very small beers that the Dammers seem to like so much.

By the third day, we were on first-name terms with the landlord and bar maid, and the old man on the stool at the bar would nod in a manner that seemed to say 'Well, if you must'. It was mid-March, and it rained almost every day, but inside Café Du Prins we always felt cosy, despite the rickety tables and bare brick walls.

I would like to know what percentage of my stay in Amsterdam was spent in Café Du Prins, admiring the artwork on the walls, poring over the flyer racks, listening to the atmospheric soundscapes from the stereo, or eating pancakes, ham and eggs, or little biscuits.

The other thing about Café Du Prins is that it conforms to the Dammer mould of tallness, narrowness, and shambolic order. Once this status quo dawns upon you, you notice it in many guises. Of course, the city is packed into the concentric semi-circles formed around the canals, and as the buildings teeter on their foundations, standing tall, narrow and tightly packed, the essence of the city somehow follows suit.

Tall men and women sat upright on high bar stools, Heineken drunk from narrow vessels, the streets densely packed with upright cyclists on high-seated bicycles, and of course the Dammers themselves … Café Du Prins is a beautifully welcoming retreat and is well worth a visit.

www.diningcity.nl/deprins/

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Cafe de Jaren on Nieuwe Doelenstraat offers delectable food (and staff!). It's the ideal cafe, with a reading room, restaurant and - my favourite spot - terraced decking right on the River Amstel.

The view takes in the University and Muntplein, and the cafe is only a short walk from Central Station. Their cocktails make the day and their apple tart is to die for, even in a city famous for them.

www.diningcity.nl/cafedejaren/nl/index.html

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Vertigo, the café-restaurant in Vondelpark, has a wonderful atmosphere at any time of the day and in any season.

www.vertigo.nl/

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Visit the Cafe Restaurant Amsterdam in the middle of an eco-friendly housing estate!

www.cradam.nl/

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Visit the M l Café at the top of the Metz & Co department store. Good food, excellent wine and a stunning view of the city.

www.metzenco.nl/restaurant.html

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American hotel is an extremely good place to stay, though a bit pricy. Fantastic location close to museums & night life. Very friendly staff, a real treat, and the hotel's cafe is a fantastic place to have a meal or just a cup of coffee, very beautiful with a distinctly old-times flavour. Excellent value for money. Strongly recommend both places.

Leidsekade 97, Amsterdam (close to Ledsplein);
tel: (0)20 556 3000;
email: info@AmsterdamAmerican.com;
www.amsterdamamerican.com

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Back in the 1600s Catholics and Protestants discovered that they were living side by side and strangely enough for the time hadn’t slaughtered each other. As it seemed to work reasonably well they invented a concept called “tolerance”. This has percolated down the years to modern times so that nowadays the Dutch don’t care whether you’re gay or put mayonnaise on your chips.
This is a delightful city to browse around and watch the people. Everyone is so relaxed, and not just due to the effects of strange substances. Amsterdam has a policy of tolerating the sale and use of soft drugs. These activities are centred around the euphemistically called coffee shops. Easy to recognise if you’re trying to avoid them as they are usually dark, have a characteristic smell and have words such as free, high, happy, dreams etc. in their titles.

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In spring and autumn, when the sun comes out but there's still a nip in the air, there's no better place for an al-fresco lunchbreak. En Zo serves a variety of home-made soups in weird and wonderful flavours (for example spicy peanut or spinach and cream) at prices from about 3 Euros - ideal for a hearty but healthy meal.

Jodenbreestraat 94A, near Waterlooplein and opposite Albert Hijn supermarket;
tel: 020-422 22 43;
www.soupenzo.nl/eng/index.html

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Berets and wristbands abound in the the place my mate Matt calls "Ebelingo" because there's so much chalk that the whole place is chattering. He's great. Anyway, come to the Ebeling for great service and even better house DJ's. A must.

Overtoom 50/52
1054 HK
Tel: 020 689 45 58
www.cafeebeling.com

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The best place to chill out early in the afternoon in true continental style. A grand café - with high ceilings to match its title - that is open all day as a café, bar and restaurant. Pick up one of the international papers and lazily drink your coffee with view on the canal. In the summer the terrace is open. Make a grand entrance by arriving by boat and hopping in for drinks.

Nieuwe Doelenstraat 20-22, 1012 CP Amsterdam;
tel: 20 62 55 771; nearest tram: Muntplein;
www.diningcity.com/ams/dejaren/index.htm

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Built in 1902, this hotel is well known for its Art Deco style café, which has large stained-glass windows and a terrace which overlooks the Leidseplein. A good place to pay a visit to, even if you’re not staying there.

Leidsekade 97

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