Psst. You. Yes you standing there in Dam Square, map in hand, wondering where to eat and not eager to sit down at the dozens of lousy tourist trap spots nearby. Over here. Down this non-descript street not much wider than an alley. Right off Dam Square, about 150 metres. It's Cafe van Kerkwijk.

It's surprising to find such a great, affordable, off-the-beaten path place so close to such a beaten path. My wife and I discovered it quite by accident; I've been in the city for years now and didn't even notice this street until last month.

There are no menus here - your server will come over and list the day's options. And then you'll be treated to a great homemade meal in a cozy environment - I'd call it comfort food but that might imply it is too basic. All the choices are interesting and they vary, from meat dishes to vegetarian options, sandwiches to full meals to great desserts and coffee. The at-home feel is enhanced by the two sisters who own it, one in the kitchen and the other on the floor.

It is busy - often packed with locals, which is a good sign in any city - and you can't make reservations. But wait a few minutes at the small bar and you will be rewarded, day or night.

www.caferestaurantvankerkwijk.nl/eng/11.html
Nes 41, 1012 KC Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 620 3316
Google map: bit.ly/XZWcfU

* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter

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A little better on the food side than De Koffie Salon, with a very fine coffee in its own right, is Anne & Max. The feel here is less retro and artistic than the Koffie Salon and perhaps more generic, but you still feel the ambience (gezelligheid, in Dutch) of Amsterdam when sitting by the window or at the big brown tables upstairs or downstairs. The food selection, with breakfast, lunch, even high tea on the menu, is quite nice and reasonable. You'll find them in Haarlem and Alkmaar as well. The Amsterdam location is well-placed just a block from the "bottom" of Vondelpark, away from the tourist hordes.

www.annemax.nl/
Zijlstraat 68 zw, 2011 TP Haarlem
+31 (0)23 7074535
Google map: bit.ly/Kw4FAh

* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter

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While I may not be a total coffee connoisseur, I've downed some grounds. And this is the best coffee I've ever had. The creamy cappuccino is like a holiday in your mouth. The regular coffee is smooth and just strong enough to power you up for an afternoon on the bike. Sipping a latte in front of the rain-dappled stained glass window will have you pondering the good choices you've made in life to get you to this place at this moment. The snacks are decent, with supple croissants and some nice cakes. But you are here for the coffee.

www.dekoffiesalon.nl/
Utrechtsestraat 130, Amsterdam
+31 (0)20 3304314
Google map: bit.ly/LiATkF

* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter

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Perfectly situated at the intersection of local and tourist, Cafe van Zuylen is quintessentially Amsterdam. It’s located on a corner overlooking a canal in the city’s Jordaan area.
If you want to get away from the cringe-inducing ugliness of Rokin, the main tourist drag that leads straight to and from Amsterdam’s Central Station, this is the perfect spot. It’s only five minutes away by foot from Rokin and the almost equally garish Dam Square, but it’s as authentic and charming a place as you’ll find in the city.
Full of natural light, natural wood furniture, and naturally a fat house cat, van Zuylen is a great spot to fire up the laptop (free Wi-Fi) and waste away the afternoon with cheap beer and friendly service (a rarity in the city). Not to mention the decent Dutch snacks and pub-ish fare and a very decent cappucino and apple tart (There’s also a restaurant attached - haven’t eaten there yet - for a more intimate setting). And on a nice day, the seating spills over to a bench outside and a sizable collection of tables overlooking a canal.
Better yet, open up your map on the table and plot your next stop, or open the travel journal and watch the people going by - your first entry will likely start with “Maybe I should just move here...” It’s like a movie about Amsterdam, with more than enough interesting faces going by to offset the occasional hipster twirling his sad mustache while looking for jobs online.
How else to put it? It’s a cosy, unassuming, cool place. And it's one of those unique spots that is always busy, but somehow there’s always a spot for you.

www.cafevanzuylen.nl/
Torensteeg 4-8, 1012 TH Amsterdam
+31(0)20 639 10 55
Google map: bit.ly/xCUXte

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One of ‘the’ things to do in Amsterdam is visit one of the notorious coffeehouses. Although they are mostly good quality, Gaeper is one of the best in the city. It has a laidback but funky atmosphere and is usually crammed with an international studenty crowd.

Staalstraat 4

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