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A New York style beer bar in the heart of Amsterdam.
Just around the corner from Dam square is an American style beer bar with a whopping 30 beers on tap (unheard of in Europe, but common in many speciality bars in the States) and over 100 in bottles, the Temple specialises in US ales (and I don't mean Budweiser or Coors) but also has a good selection of UK, Dutch and Belgian beers.
On my visit (November 2012) they had all three Westvleteren Trappist beers in stock (some of the rarest and reportedly best beers in the world) and I was able to try all for the first time (an ambition of mine for several years), not sure if these are permanently available or if I just got lucky with my visit but many of the American beers are also particularly rare (Three Floyds, Stone etc) and Brewdog beers (from the UK) appear to be popular here.
If you are a beer lover visiting Amsterdam then this is a must, for the true connoisseur maybe even worth a special holiday.
www.beertemple.nl
Nieuwezijds voorburgwal 250, 1012RR
Amsterdam
+31 (020) 62 714 27
Google map: bit.ly/TD3rKU
Moeders is an excellent little eatery/restaurant located on the Rozengracht, not far form the Anne Frank House Museum in the centre of the city's beautiful Canal Belt district. What makes this place different is the decor. You will find wall upon wall packed with photos of customers' mothers. You are of course encouraged to bring along a photo of your own mum to add to their collection. High tea and cakes is served on charmingly mis-matched crockery and cutlery and you can also treat yourself to some authentic stodgy Dutch cuisine here. Bring your mother on her birthday and they will have a prize in store for her. Book online for a table to avoid disappointment in such cases.
www.moeders.com/
Rozengracht 251, 1016 SX Amsterdam
+31(0)20 6267957
Google map: bit.ly/Q70liJ
Tucked away in a corner of the Max Euwe Plaza is a fascinating free museum, unique in the chess world, with a vast archive where you can play a game with the hosts while drinking coffee. Dr Euwe was Holland’s greatest player and a member of the Dutch Resistance. A recently donated chess board unearthed in a German attic depicts the white pieces as a strong heavily armed World War Two German army while the weaker black pieces are armed with mere hand grenades. Carved into the frame of the board are the names in chronological order of the conquered nations. Interestingly, the last name to be engraved is England. A short tram journey away is the ‘flea market’ in the old Jewish quarter which is not far from the Verzetsmuseum (Dutch Resistance Museum) where a chess set, handmade secretly in a safe house, is on display but this time the pieces show a different view of the war. The white pieces wear the soft caps of the Dutch Resistance, the black pieces the helmets of the invading army. The chilled October air on the canals serves to heighten the poignancy of these two museums.
www.maxeuwe.nl/index.php/english/museum
Max Euweplein 30a, 1017 MB Amsterdam
+31 20 6257017
www.verzetsmuseum.org/
Plantage Kerklaan 61-A, 1018 CX Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 620 2535
Google map: bit.ly/VUAA4X
If you are heading to Amsterdam in August, be prepared for a) plenty of festivals and b) limited co-operation from the weather.
So on a dry, warmish night, you might want to head to one of the more unique fests known as Pluk de Nacht (loosely translated as "Seize the Night"). It's an open-air film festival that appears just a stone's throw from Centraal Station, arising somewhat magically from a patch of unremarkable grass called the Stenen Hoofd. Nobody knows this name and online maps don't provide much help, so it's best to walk or bike west of Centraal along the water and you'll see it within minutes.
It's the kind of low-frills, high-fun that Amsterdam seems to do very well. You're in for loads of people who are all in a good mood - because if you are all there it means it isn't raining - with home-brought food and beverages (a selection of food and drinks is for sale too). Oh, and you'll see some critically acclaimed international movies in English (or subtitled). The view over the water isn't too shabby either.
Arriving 45 minutes before nightfall last year (about 10:15pm is when it became dark), the crowds were massive and we were shoehorned in to a less-than-optimal spot though. So if you're feeling Plukky, arrive extra early, snag a beach chair close to the screen or spread a blanket out under the stars.
This year's version runs from August 22 - September 1
www.plukdenacht.nl/index.php?21
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
It's that time of year again, when the days darken early and Dutch parents still don't put hats or gloves on their kids.
It's also time once again for the International Documentary Film Festival, the best 10 days for movie geeks to sneak some peeks at the world's best un-Hollywood films.
I'm now on my third year of this cinematic feast, and as a seasoned vet I am all over this like Herman Cain on an assistant.
Want to make the most of the festival? Here's the lowdown:
- Get on the mailing list for the festival; they are not spammy, with only a few emails sent throughout the year, and you will get ample warned well in advance of the ticket sales and the overall program.
- On Day 1 of the kaartverkoop, go online and buy tickets for all your favourites. I bought 5 tickets this year, and it wasn't easy whittling down the choices. But waiting until the day before or day is risky. Although last-minute no-shows do happen; if you really want to see something, head to the cinema about 30 minutes before the show and talk to a ticket-taker or wait for a seller to start hawking.
- Bring your smartphone to the show - no need to line up to pick up pre-bought tickets this year, as the organizers have gone all smartphone-friendly.
- If you have any questions, be patient. The volunteers range widely from friendly and on the ball to friendly and way off the ball. It happens every year - some of them seem genuinely surprised to be there.
The lineup for each annual version is much the same - many films with a very strong social message, some with serious stomach-churning violence and sadness; some with beauty as their main feature; and others that are light and a bit wacky. Virtually all of them look great.
This year, I've got tickets for:
Cave of Forgotten Dreams
Just came back from this; it's a fascinating movie about the discovery of cave drawings in France dating back 32,000 years, directed and narrated by Werner Herzog - in 3D no less. This movie expands your brain, largely (I think) by making us realize how short a time we're really here and how close we are to messing it up.
Desert Riders
The very sad story of camel jockeys (yes, actual camel jockeys) in the UAE.
Happiness... a Promised Land
A look at a simple question posed to various people on a hike: What makes you happy? (These days? An awesome fiancee, dogs, Guinness, playing squash, and movie festivals. I suspect this movie will delve a little deeper).
POM Wonderful presents: The Greatest Movie Ever Sold
Morgan Spurlock, the guy from Super-Size Me, casts a light on the prevalence and absurdity of advertising and insidious product placement. Which seems like a good time to mention that this blog is currently sponsored by Lithuanian garlic, Simon Levelt Indian Chai tea, Etos cough syrup and Hema's Ultra Soft nose tissues.
The Last Dogs of Winter
The Canadian Eskimo Dog is the only dog that can survive a temperature of minus-60 degrees. Only a few hundred are left. We'll see if it's chilling or heart-warming.
So a full agenda of movie-viewing is on tap, and I am overly, geekily, excited about it all. Some other ones that I may even try to see are Four Horsemen ("What is created by humans, can be changed by humans" - check out the trailer) and G Spotting: A Story of Pleasure and Promise (oddly, the identical working title of the first movie listed above). Just hope I find the damn place.
www.idfa.nl/industry.aspx
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
A bit of a nerd alert here ... the following post deals with a place many of us haven't visited since grade school - so feel free to fast-forward if you are not a fan of the literary arts. The rest of us will geek out at places like Bibliotheek Amsterdam - an architectural and bibliotheq-lical wonder located about five minutes walk from Amstedam's Centraal Station.
It's part of what might be called the "new" Amsterdam. "Old" Amsterdam buildings are the homes, bridges, and cobblestone streets from the past several centuries - beautiful, quaint, happily cramped, and the stuff that most of us see on postcards. What is less often seen is the really cool and modern interior/exterior design that also permeates the city.
Overlooking the water and the entire city to the south, the main central library cost 80 million Euros to build and is easily the coolest library you've ever seen, seemingly intended as much for the tourist as for the student.
The lighting and layout - seven floors in total - evokes an Apple store-ish feel, with several hundred Mac displays and hundreds of quiet corners to read or study.
Occasionally, you'll be able to catch a concert here, with a piano player or singer belting out tunes on a given afternoon, in addition to cultural events like art openings. If you're handy with it, you can simply sit down at the piano on the main floor and tickle the ivories.
Any time of day, you can head to the affordable chicness of Vapiano attached to the front of the building, or head to La Place on the 7th floor for all meals (tip: get the Thai stir-fry for lunch) or a dessert and a coffee, with sweet views and photo ops of the entire city.
www.oba.nl
Oosterdokskade 143, 1011 DL Amsterdam
+31(0)20 523 0800
Google map: bit.ly/qXStAK
ArTicks Gallery is Amsterdam’s first gallery focused on underground contemporary art. Now there is a place in Amsterdam for exhibitions from the progressive world of urban art and street art.
www.articksgallery.com
Singel 88, 1015-AD Amsterdam
+31 (0)20 737 1505
Google map: bit.ly/mCtZ5Z
It is a photography gallery in the centre of Amsterdam. Not only do they put on a variety of excellent shows but the gallery and the architecture is worth a visit too. I have memories of cycling through the snow in Amsterdam and arriving at the gallery, getting into the warm and spending the afternoon looking around the show, the shop, the library and the building - the whole package!
Keizersgracht 609, 1017 DS Amsterdam
www.foam.org/foam-amsterdam
+31 (0)20 5516500
Google map; bit.ly/h5s4VH
The Van Gogh Museum’s Multimedia Tour is a fantastic way of immersing yourself in the colourful life and work of Van Gogh.
Through the simple-to-use handheld device and headset you can delve deeper in to the stories behind many of Van Gogh’s famous pictures as well as giving you access to a wealth of extra information including photos, letters, film clips and drawings.
A great interactive experience that enhanced my visit and gave me a real insight in to the often tragic life of the man behind the paintings.
At the Van Gogh museum, there is a wall just outside the gift shop which has two built in cameras.
You can create your own 20 second video clip and send it for free to your friends and family (you simply enter their e-mail address).
Easy to use and quite handy when waiting for a while for the other half to emerge from the gift shop. You can even stand in the background and do a little jiggle or Riverdance when others are making their videos!
Take a break from the busy bars and coffee shops by visiting Hortus Botanicus in the Plantage district of the city.
There you will find the most amazing plants in giant greenhouses.
The red light district is where all the hotels are, but make sure you take a good walk out one of the spokes and take in a movie (with a Grolsh or two) and a proper local coffee shop.
If you want to see one of the best and most memorable art collections in Europe come to Amsterdam and catch a train or bus to Otterloo to make a visit to the Kröller-Müller Museum.
It has a remarkable collection of the best of a variety of great artists. The choice of the original collection was made by a very discerning art collector. The best Van Goghs are there which you can compare with those in the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam.
And there are many other artist’s works and sculptures in the park set in open countryside.
Academie OT301, the former Netherlands Film Academie, is a legalized squat featuring two large performance/rehearsal spaces, a cinema, cafe and gallery space with cultural activities and events. Check it out for the mega-cheap organic vegan restaurant. A meal costs €5 but must be reserved from 4pm on the day; dinner is served at 7pm.
ot301.nl/
Vereniging Eerst Hulp Bij Kunst
Overtoom 301, 1054 HW Amsterdam
Google map: bit.ly/n1HnzP
Every year Queen's Day is celebrated on April 30. It commemorates the birthday of the Queen Mother, Juliana, who reigned from 1948 until 1980.
In Amsterdam thousands of people go out to sell and buy, listen to music and dance in the streets from early in the morning until late at night. It is an excellent time to visit Amsterdam and get a real flavour of how the locals see their city.
Amsterdam itself is one of the most engaging and likeable cities in the world. A trip to the Rijksmuseum is alone worth boarding the Eurostar for.
But after your stay in Amsterdam, get yourself on one of the other best European train systems and make the trip to Maastricht. This is probably the most vibrant city of the Netherlands, likened to a miniature Paris with its cobbled streets and fantastic cuisine.
The city centre is excellent for the more contemporary shops while the older part of town contains high-class boutiques where the proprietors don't seem too fazed by the odd nose impression against the window.
After a hard day's shopping, fortify yourself with a coffee at one of the coffee shops (not that kind of coffee shop!) around the Wyck or Ceramique district before crossing the Hoge bridge and strolling around the Jekerkwartier area. Here you'll find romantic cobbled streets and a real sense of calm in this exciting city. But the best thing about Maastricht? You can get there easily from Bruges and Brussels too.
Get to see the picturebook version of old Holland by visiting the Zaanse Schans, which is just 20 minutes by train from Amsterdam Central.
This preserved village of windmills, old houses and workshops beside the river Zaan is an all-weather, all-year attraction. Admission is free, although there are entry charges to some buildings on the site.
It's fascinating to see where the old chap lived - not only do you get to see some of his personal artefacts, but this house does also give you a sense of what it was like living there at the time. Beds, for example, are in what look like cupboards in the walls - they only slept sitting up in those days. You also get to see the top floor studio and, if your imagination's up to it, the painter at work.
Jodenbreestraat 4
www.rembrandthuis.nl/cms_pages/index_main.html
With major renovation taking place at the moment (October 2005) and continuing until 2008 the main museum building is closed, however, a special exhibition entitled Masterpieces is on display in the Philips Wing.
This exhibition (containing over 400 exhibits – a fair amount for a lot of museums but hardly a scratch on the surface for the hundreds of thousands the Rijksmuseum contains) concentrates on the Golden Age of Dutch art – the 17th Century.
Exhibits include the amazingly detailed Dolls House owned and commissioned by Petronella Oortman – as well as representing a wonderful feat of artistry it is also a great historical record of life in a Dutch canal side house. There are pictures and artefacts illustrating Amsterdam and Holland’s standing as a world trading power (a very good accompaniment to many of the exhibits in the Amsterdam Historisch Museum) and paintings by Frans Hals, Vermeer and, of course Rembrandt including the magnificent “Night Watch”.
Beware that the galleries can get very busy, particularly at the weekend and you may find yourself avoiding tour groups and waiting, or jostling, to see some of the more well known paintings. It's worth it though.
Entry: 9 euro plus 4 euro or an audio guide
Opening Times: 9am-6pm daily
The website (www.rijksmuseum.nl) is a fantastic site and well worth a look.
The entrance is currently on Jan Luijkenstraat
The website (www.rijksmuseum.nl) is a fantastic site and well worth a look
The CoBrA Art Movement – situated in the Amsterdam suburb of Amstelveen - was founded after world war two by artists from Denmark, Belgium and the Netherlands in order to develop and encourage avant-garde and modern art. The name CoBrA is derived from the capital cities of the countries from which the artists came – Copenhagen, Brussels and Amsterdam.
The museum contains some permanent exhibits from its collection – including works by Karel Appel whose fountain sculpture stands outside the entrance - and also organises exhibitions by other artists in keeping with the avant-garde ethos of CoBrA. When we visited there was a very striking exhibition examining how African folk art has influenced primitivism in western art. Being able to see the exhibits side-by-side, for instance African carved masks and totems next to modern paintings and sculptures, allowed you to see how influences had been transferred and compare and contrast the different exhibits.
The art in the museum will certainly not be to everyone’s taste. However, what I really liked about the CoBrA Museum was that the exhibits provoked responses in me, challenged me and made me think. Not all to my taste but interesting nonetheless.
Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 11.00am-5.00pm
Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen; take Tram No 5 from Amsterdam Central Station to Amstelveen Binnenhof;
www.cobra-museum.nl
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