Netherlands
Most travelers to Amsterdam will have heard about Vondelpark, the city’s answer to New York’s Central Park (on a much smaller scale, of course). We’ll revisit the pleasures of Vondelpark in a later post, but for now let’s fast forward to a lesser-known urban green space called Beatrix Park.
Located south of the city and nestled behind the RAI Conference Center, it’s an easy 15-minute ride from the city center along the Amstel River (or even quicker if you head down the center of the map along Ferdinand Bolstraat), Beatrixpark is an absolute gem. It is in direct contrast to the blanket-to-blanket crowd shoehorned into Vondelpark.
At Beatrixpark – named after the Dutch Queen Beatrix - you can park yourself on the grass along the canal, watching boaters on their sloops putter along, or head to the center of the park with more quiet corners, tree-lined trails and open space than you can imagine in this busy city. The park itself has quite a history, starting off in the 1930s and undergoing a brief identity change with the Nazi occupation before resuming its Beatrixness. It really feels like a neighbourhood playground, complete with the coolest swingset you or your kids have ever seen. It even has a group to ensure its heritage and beauty stay intact, the Friends of Beatrixpark: www.vriendenbeatrixpark.nl/html/nieuws/home.html.
Station-Zuid WTC, Amsterdam, Netherlands
Walk/Bike - from the RAI congress centre, facing the main entry to the right and turn left direction the Amstelhal of the RAI. Pass in front of this building and behind the canal you will see the park - it is located at the rear all exhibit halls.
Tram - line 5, exit on the Beethovenstraat - stop Stadionweg; walk left along Stadionweg, turn right into the Diepenbrockstraat. Cross the bridge. There will be two small passages into the park on your right – they are located at the number 15 and the number 9 of the street. It is about 5 minutes walking from the tram stop.
Car: exit the A10 ring on the RAI exit. Drive into the city in front of the RAI congress centre, turn left direction the Diepenbrockstraat; continue for 200m and you will see the park on your left. Metered parking in the street.
Google map: bit.ly/pmKgVv
Great for kids (9 and over, could be a bit scary for younger ones) and big kids - enjoy an afternoon of some pretty gruesome tales of Amsterdam, especially on Halloween.
Near Dam Square
We visited Amsterdam with our three year old daughter, while I was heavily pregnant.
Knowing that we would be having early nights in our hotel room, we upgraded to a room "with a view", using money saved from not using evening entertainment or so many museum admissions.
Our room overlooked on of the ubiquitous squares and we spent evenings eating a rather nice room service menu people watching.
It may not sound exciting,but we loved it and kept sane at the same timeR with no worries regarding baby sitting services.
Take the kids on 5th December for the arrival of "Sinter Klaas" by boat into the city.
The big Dutch Christmas celebrations are on St. Nicholas Day. A unique experience for all the family with street celebrations, treasure hunts, sweeties from Black Pete and clogs filled with carrots!
We had a great time in Holland on the family bike tour.
After a rocky start - we missed our flights out of Stansted by five minutes - we contacted the tour direct and arranged to meet them at their 2nd point on the itinerary, Hoorn.
Caught a later flight out of Stansted to Amsterdam, then a train straight from the Airport to Hoorn, taxi to the docks and then wandered about until we spotted lots of people on bikes coming off a boat.
The tour was well planned with no hiccups. It was very leisurely and even at four months pregnant and a four-year-old we managed to cycle the distances easily. We encountered a few rain soaked rides, some strong head winds but also some lovely sunshine.
We cycled through farm land, forests, canals, opening bridges, crossed on ferries, opened lochs, each day bringing a new challenge and scenery.
Our son Oscar loved his tandem bike and he had many people turning heads to see them ride.
The food on board the Amsterdam barge was of a fantastic quality and the hospitality was very generous.
The holiday was organised by UK company 2 Wheel Treks.
The cycle routes are so beautiful and plentiful in Holland, often set apart from other traffic, that I really recommend going on a cycling holiday. I have done it regularly since I was about 7 with my family and it is very exciting, safe and beautiful (the countryside in the east/south is magnificent).
There are also special 'trekkershutten', little wooden cabins at many campsites throughout Holland specifically for cyclists. It is cheap, basic but clean accommodation usually with 2 bunkbeds, a kitchen and a terrace. Even though I have been on holidays to far away places as a child, my best memories are still these cycling holidays!
www.trekkershutten.nl, it is in Dutch, but if you click on 'Contact' and then request information in English, you should be okay. Otherwise contact the ANWB, info was in Saturday's (16/06/2007) Travel section.
Something like the Dutch answer to Wetherspoons, this Eetcafe on the Spui enjoys a fair variety of Belgian beers and bar snacks. In the summer, sit out on the covered terrace and observe the daily battle between the trams and the cyclists - like watching a pack of sharks taking on a school of darting fish.
Spui 30
(0031) 20 6225110
www.beiaardgroep.nl/
Finding a hotel in Amsterdam during peak season can be a drag. This converted canal house has a prime location bang in the town centre on the Singel - but doesn't yet suffer from the curse of the Lonely Planet. The road at the back can be a bit noisy at night, and the stairs are steep, but that goes for a lot of places; the very efficient staff and most acceptable prices (single from 60 Euros) make up for it. There's also apartments to hire if you like.
Singel 310
(0031) 20 6266043
info@hotelhoksbergen.nl
www.hotelhoksbergen.com/
Sometimes you want to experiment, sometimes you want to splash out - but on other occasions you just need somewhere safe and simple (especially if the family's in tow). This tidy little restaurant just off Prinsengracht does the job, with friendly service and main courses from about 12 Euros. A lot of locals hanging out here, so it must be decent. There's a fair selection of fish dishes; check out also the pork sate.
Berenstraat 12
(0031) 206232373
restaurant@zwaantje.demon.nl
www.zwaantje.demon.nl
In a quiet canalside location a stone's throw from the Anne Frank Museum, De Prins is a lively English pub-style eatery with a limited number of tables and a warm, friendly atmosphere on a cold winter's night. The menu is limited but the food is top quality and perfectly prepared. The fondue is well up to Swiss standards and is a perfect protection against Amsterdam's cold winds. As in many restaurants in this enlightened city, smokers are still welcomed, so if you are not addicted to tobacco you may be better elsewhere.
Plancius, in the former Jewish quarter next door to the excellent Dutch Resistance Museum, is a busy modern restaurant popular with locals. We lunched on superb home-made soup and lighter-than-air omlettes, and had swift and friendly service.
De Prins: Prinsengracht 124, Amsterdam 1015 AE
Public Transport - Tram: 6, 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt and a short walk.
www.diningcity.nl/deprins/
Plancius; Plantage Kerklaan 61a, 1018 CX Amsterdam.
Tel: (020) 330 94 69
Public Transport - Tram 6,9, 14 (stop: Artis)
www.restaurantplancius.nl/
We have an 8 and a 5 year old, and really enjoyed half-term in Amsterdam. Van Gogh and Rijksmuseum are reduced scale due to building work, but that means all the best "must-see" stuff is more easily accessible, and 90 mins in each was sufficient. The Artis Zoo and Nemo science place are both worth seeing. Canal boat trips ease tired feet. Great food, lovely people, very child friendly and family orientated.
Fly with KLM, only c.£30 + tax each, but no hassle, really nice people and none of that easyjet scrum. We stayed with City Mundo (recomended in the Guardian) in a private apartment on the outskirts by the Vondelpark and a beautiful canal - very affordable, easy by tram into town. Good local amenities.
Huge park in the city centre (five minutes walk from Leidseplein). Lovely for walking/lazing/picnicking on warm spring/summer days. Bring your own food/drink or stop in one of the bars for snacks etc.
Amsterdam city centre
Two museums for the price of one. The Amstelkring shows a 17th-century canal house as it would have been, and is a fascinating place. Best of all, though, on the top (attic) floor, is a complete, secret, Catholic church, from the time of the Reformation, when Catholicism was banned in Amsterdam.
The museum also has a game for younger children - find the ladybird; there are a number of tiny ladybird models all over the museum - how many can you find?
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40; www.museumamstelkring.nl/
Mon - Sat 10:00 - 17:00
Sundays 13:00 - 17:00
Adults 7 Euros
Child 5 -18 1 Euro
Under 5s free
When you get tired of Amsterdam's endless artwork attractions, head for the Tropenmuseum for a surprising alternative. It wasn't just the Brits that were busy conquering the four corners of the globe back in the olden days - the Dutch were at it too and here is assembled a vast collection of artefacts from their colonies and other exotic locations around the world. On the ground floor right now there's a beautifully conceived interactive exhibit on Hinduism to explore; and for the kids, the museum has a special junior section with games and activities.
Linnaeusstraat 2 Amsterdam;
From Central Station: bus 22, tram 9.
From Muiderpoort station: trams 14, 3 and 6;
From the Dam: trams 9 and 14;
From Leidseplein: trams 10 and 7;
tel: +31 20 568 8215;
www.tropenmuseum.nl
Artis is Amsterdam's zoo. I'm not a big fan of zoos but if you're going to have one in a city you could do worse than this. It's amazing in spring - the breeding programme is phenomenal and there are loads of young animals. In general the animals seem happy and well cared for, and the architecture - both the modern buildings and what they have done with the 19th-century buildings - is pretty impressive. A good place to while away a few hours.
Plantage Kerklaan 38-40; tram 6, 9, 14; www.artis.nl/international/index.html
Spacious urban playpark located in an underpass near the town centre. There's a special play area for the under 3s and under 5s – it kept our 14-month-old busy for an entire morning. Looks great for older kids too, especially the inflatable climbing wall and football cage.
Mr. Visserplein 7, Amsterdam; tel: 020 6894300; trams 9 and 14;
www.tunfun.nl/engels.shtml
This is a lovely spot near the zoo and great for a quiet afternoon. They have an amazing building with three different climate zones (tropical, subtropical and desert) with walkways that stretch up into the canopy of the trees. There’s beautiful sculptures woven in giving a fantastic mixture of organic and non-organic form. They also have a fantastic butterfly house packed with hundreds of the little guys.
Plantage Middenlan 2a; 1018 DD Amsterdam; Trams 9 and 14.
www.hortus-botanicus.nl
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