One of the best organic farmer's markets I've ever been to. Amazing cheese, bread, vegetable stalls, even a stall selling all sorts of mushrooms in season (bought some chanterelles and a black truffle last time). Smoked mozzarellas, huge focaccias, stunning veg - a truly superb market. 9am - 4pm Saturdays (the rest of the week it's a flea market).

Noordermarkt is in the shadow of Noorderkerk, about 10 minutes' walk from Centraal Station, on the edge of the Jordaan district.

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A restaurant of character and intrigue. Food like your Dutch granny made for you and served promptly and effectively. The liver and onions had just run out on the specials board as we arrived, so we settled for braised beef, giant meatball, saute pots, cauli and green beans (you select your veg from the specials board). Apple puree, rhubarb and rice pudding custard, rounded off the meal. All in the company of locals (mostly over 70). All great value for £22 with 2 bottles of beer and an apple sap. Only open of an evening though.

1e Helmerstratt, near Leidseplein and parallel to Overtoom. Tram stops on line 5 and 1 nearby

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Great meat feast and happy friendly service.

Reguliersdwarsstraat 57, 1017 BK Amsterdam, 020 626 50 80

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Just off the route of the #2 tram lie a number of interesting restaurants, notably, Le 4 Stagioni, a former butcher's shop, with antique tiles portraying the four seasons - le 4 stagioni.

- Palma, Johannes Verhulststraat 104, www.restaurant-palma.nl/do.php?lg=eng
- Oud-Zuid, Johannes Verhulststraat 64, www.restaurantoudzuid.nl
- Le 4 Stagioni, Johannes Verhulststraat 32, www.le4stagioni.nl
- Pulpo, Willemsparkweg 87, www.restaurant-pulpo.nl/index.php?pag=diner

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Yes, I know that Kilimanjaro is in Tanzania, not Ethiopia, but this little eatery specialises in Ethiopian-style dishes - and you can hold the predictable jokes too.

There's a limited but great-value repertoire here, and on an empty stomach the all-in get-your-hands-dirty dishes are to die for. If there's a group of you, order a variety of mains (all served on a stodgy bed of pancakes) and you can pull off a massive dinner for under 15 Euros per head.

Rapenburgerplein 6
+31 20 6223485
Bus no.22 from Centraal Station

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In Amsterdam, the former city glasshouse has been restored and turned into the light-filled, airy De Kas restaurant, with smaller glasshouses around the main room used to grow herbs and vegetables. Book for dinner in high summer and start with a glass of champagne flavoured with a basil leaf, followed by delicious, seasonal food like confit duck, grilled fish, fresh salads and tiny jellies made from fresh berries. They serve one daily, five course menu so all you need to do is book a table, turn up and relax - neatly avoiding both menu dilemmas and dinner envy.

Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3
1097 DE
www.restaurantdekas.nl/4menu_eng.php

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Eat smoked gerring with pickled cucumber in a roll.

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Enjoy an Indonesian banquet - spicy, sharp and fresh flavours and a change for the Guardian-reading Rushlome regular.

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Always try pea and ham soup - Amsterdam's finest! It's cheap and hearty, and far better for you than the city's other temptations ...

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Fan of Gregorian chants ? Each Sunday from September to June there are Gregorian Vespers sung by the monks at St Nicholas Church, just 100 yards from Grand Central Station.

The service starts at 5pm, is open to all and free to attend. Having filled the soul, an easy two-minute stroll will take you to the Bird cafe on Zeedijk 77. Why is this tiny Thai snack bar always frantically busy ? Sit down and try the food. Then you'll understand.

www.bma.amsterdam.nl/adam/uk/groot/nicolaas.html

www.thai-bird.nl/

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Foodie tip: visit hospitable Amsterdam in May, when restaurants will offer the succulent white asparagus you can never find in the UK.

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You just have to go to an Indonesian Restaurant and order the rijsttafel (banquet) which is a superb, diverse range of Indonesian food that brings your taste buds alive!

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The Pancake Bakery house in Amsterdam is a must!

www.pancake.nl/

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You have to try a 'Wok to Walk', they are so addictive and they taste great - I bet once you try one you'll pass this tip on!

www.woktowalk.com/en/find/

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Wait until 10.30am before eating, then order a Rijstaffel at an Indonesian restaurant - a marvellous start to the day.

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Check out Da Groene Lantaarn located on the canal (Bloemgracht 47) in the Jordaan district - this fantastic fondue restaurant is off the main drag, but well worth the trek.

Every kind of fondue is on offer, but no meal is finished until you have the chocolate fondue. It's a terrifically romantic place, and we were lucky enough to be there in the snow - it holds many happy memories.

Bloemgracht 47
1016KD Amsterdam

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Good vegetarian/vegan food at Green Planet, Golden Temple and the Maoz falafel chain.

www.greenplanet.nl/index2.htm

www.restaurantgoldentemple.com/

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Try the falafels.

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Make absolutely certain that you don't leave without tasting the Dutch take on chips and mayonnaise, which is superb and which - try as we might - we've been unable to reproduce at home.

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When visiting Amsterdam and doing the tourist thing, walk down the always-busy Kalverstraat untill you come to Vroom and Dreesman, the nicest and freshest restaurant in town.

Walk through the front area and up the stairs and choose your own food from one of the many cooking islands. You can see your food being freshly prepared in front of you, with the freshest vegetables. You also can wash it down with a bottle of chilled wine or beer.

Vroom and Dreesman is particularly good if you're a vegetarian like me, as the pick-and-mix approach is very convienient.

www.vd.nl/

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