You've emerged, blinking like a newborn, from the perilously touristic Damrak street which took you from Amsterdam Central Station to Dam Square. You are hungry and grouchy from a cramped discount airline flight, or maybe you just have the munchies since you stopped along the way at a coffeeshop. Either way, you're low on funds but not keen to try the gross tourist haunts you've seen so far.

Go west, young (wo)man, to Grillroom Sefa (or Sefa Grill-room, or... who knows? They don't even have a website). Sefa has a host of Middle Eastern dishes to take out or eat there, all from 5 to 10 Euros. Fresh, tasty, and served with uncharacteristic (for Amsterdam) friendliness, you can grab a shoarma, a doner, or kebab. Good-sized meals too (the 5 EUR Broodje Doner is all I usually need for the day).

Located at Westermarkt 25, it is only a few blocks from Dam Square, directly across from Westermarkt church, within 100 meters of the Anne Frank house and closer still to a canal where you can dangle your feet over the side and chill out with your meal. They're open until the wee hours as well. Better Sefa than sorry! (Sorry!).

Westermarkt 25, Amsterdam, Noord-Holland
+31(0)20 7739212
Google map: bit.ly/13ej6qp

* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter

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Psst. You. Yes you standing there in Dam Square, map in hand, wondering where to eat and not eager to sit down at the dozens of lousy tourist trap spots nearby. Over here. Down this non-descript street not much wider than an alley. Right off Dam Square, about 150 metres. It's Cafe van Kerkwijk.

It's surprising to find such a great, affordable, off-the-beaten path place so close to such a beaten path. My wife and I discovered it quite by accident; I've been in the city for years now and didn't even notice this street until last month.

There are no menus here - your server will come over and list the day's options. And then you'll be treated to a great homemade meal in a cozy environment - I'd call it comfort food but that might imply it is too basic. All the choices are interesting and they vary, from meat dishes to vegetarian options, sandwiches to full meals to great desserts and coffee. The at-home feel is enhanced by the two sisters who own it, one in the kitchen and the other on the floor.

It is busy - often packed with locals, which is a good sign in any city - and you can't make reservations. But wait a few minutes at the small bar and you will be rewarded, day or night.

www.caferestaurantvankerkwijk.nl/eng/11.html
Nes 41, 1012 KC Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 620 3316
Google map: bit.ly/XZWcfU

* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter

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Moeders is an excellent little eatery/restaurant located on the Rozengracht, not far form the Anne Frank House Museum in the centre of the city's beautiful Canal Belt district. What makes this place different is the decor. You will find wall upon wall packed with photos of customers' mothers. You are of course encouraged to bring along a photo of your own mum to add to their collection. High tea and cakes is served on charmingly mis-matched crockery and cutlery and you can also treat yourself to some authentic stodgy Dutch cuisine here. Bring your mother on her birthday and they will have a prize in store for her. Book online for a table to avoid disappointment in such cases.

www.moeders.com/
Rozengracht 251, 1016 SX Amsterdam
+31(0)20 6267957
Google map: bit.ly/Q70liJ

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Excellent food cooked by real chefs in a small and intimate atmosphere. The menu is not huge but the quality is really good and we had a really enjoyable evening meal. It's not the cheapest but it's great value when you consider the quality of the ingredients, the innovative dishes and excellent presentation.

www.restaurantspelt.nl
Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 5A, 1017 DB Amsterdam
+31 (0)20 420 70 22
Google map: bit.ly/UPe4g7

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If you're looking for a true Dutch feeling, Amsterdam can be tough - it does the bikes and canals to perfection, of course, but beyond that the tourist masses and the sheer mix of people from around the world (177 nationalities call Amsterdam home) can leave you wondering what being in real Holland actually feels like.
I would suggest hopping on a bike for a day trip (or even half a day - the pull of the evening's charms in Amsterdam may prove too strong) and heading down the Amstel river. Within minutes of leaving the center, along the road and cycling pathway known as the Amsteldijk, you'll suddenly yourself cycling along the high grasses and postcard-perfect banks of the Amstel. Halfway to the city of Oude Kerk, a very nice place in its own right, you will pass a huge windmill house, then a sculpture of Rembrandt, and then suddenly at the Kleine Kalfje (little calf.)
This very Dutch spot is only 20-30 minutes by bike from Amsterdam's Centraal Station and offers a feeling of really being in Holland. The restaurant itself is cozy and inviting, but the terrace that sits right on the water is the real gem. Boats slip past just meters away, and the glass surrounding this extended patio keeps you sheltered from the country's windy ways. Cyclists and joggers zip past on the other side, and it doesn't take more than a few sips of cappuccino, wine, or beer to imagine yourself moving here.

www.restaurantkleinkalfje.nl
Amsteldijk-Noord 355, 1083 AB Amsterdam
+31(0)20 644 53 38
Google map: bit.ly/TCVWjl

* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter

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A little better on the food side than De Koffie Salon, with a very fine coffee in its own right, is Anne & Max. The feel here is less retro and artistic than the Koffie Salon and perhaps more generic, but you still feel the ambience (gezelligheid, in Dutch) of Amsterdam when sitting by the window or at the big brown tables upstairs or downstairs. The food selection, with breakfast, lunch, even high tea on the menu, is quite nice and reasonable. You'll find them in Haarlem and Alkmaar as well. The Amsterdam location is well-placed just a block from the "bottom" of Vondelpark, away from the tourist hordes.

www.annemax.nl/
Zijlstraat 68 zw, 2011 TP Haarlem
+31 (0)23 7074535
Google map: bit.ly/Kw4FAh

* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter

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Perfectly situated at the intersection of local and tourist, Cafe van Zuylen is quintessentially Amsterdam. It’s located on a corner overlooking a canal in the city’s Jordaan area.
If you want to get away from the cringe-inducing ugliness of Rokin, the main tourist drag that leads straight to and from Amsterdam’s Central Station, this is the perfect spot. It’s only five minutes away by foot from Rokin and the almost equally garish Dam Square, but it’s as authentic and charming a place as you’ll find in the city.
Full of natural light, natural wood furniture, and naturally a fat house cat, van Zuylen is a great spot to fire up the laptop (free Wi-Fi) and waste away the afternoon with cheap beer and friendly service (a rarity in the city). Not to mention the decent Dutch snacks and pub-ish fare and a very decent cappucino and apple tart (There’s also a restaurant attached - haven’t eaten there yet - for a more intimate setting). And on a nice day, the seating spills over to a bench outside and a sizable collection of tables overlooking a canal.
Better yet, open up your map on the table and plot your next stop, or open the travel journal and watch the people going by - your first entry will likely start with “Maybe I should just move here...” It’s like a movie about Amsterdam, with more than enough interesting faces going by to offset the occasional hipster twirling his sad mustache while looking for jobs online.
How else to put it? It’s a cosy, unassuming, cool place. And it's one of those unique spots that is always busy, but somehow there’s always a spot for you.

www.cafevanzuylen.nl/
Torensteeg 4-8, 1012 TH Amsterdam
+31(0)20 639 10 55
Google map: bit.ly/xCUXte

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Albert Cuyp Market began in 1904, along a wide street in the area of Amsterdam called De Pijp, just a five minute bike ride south of the city center.
It has 300 stalls, from cheap chic clothing to fresh fish, from bike accessories to huge amounts of flowers (10 roses for 5 Euros. Guys - it's never been cheaper to buy your way out of trouble).
It's a classic outdoor market, with various vendors barking out their specials all day while locals and tourists amble along and scarf down a fresh stroopwafel (thin syrup waffle) or fries. What it lacks in aesthetics - cheap-looking stalls atop dark grey gum-imprinted asphalt - it makes up for in products and in characters.
I personally get to experience the best and the worst of it. The best being tons of fresh, quality food about 90 seconds walk from my door, one street north of Albert Cuypstraat. This also includes the roasted chicken dripping off the spit, and the butcher who always has a spare bit of smoked turkey for our dog.
Tied for the tops are the people. The characters are real-life, seasoned market-hawkers - mostly very friendly, some gruff, always authentic and fair (this is not one of those markets where you haggle). They'll switch to speaking English in a second too. The old salty dogs selling an awesome variety of fish look like they caught it themselves that morning, and a faulty bike lock is replaced right away. You never feel jobbed (ahem, Istanbul and Barcelona markets - looking at you here).
The worst? The clattering fish and flower trolleys at 5:30 in the morning as they get set up for the day ahead, 6 days a week (the market is closed on Sundays). Ear plugs are a must for this time of day if you sleep anywhere near the market.
And the trash - the street is remarkably clean after 7pm as the city cleaning crews sweep it all up, but between 5 and 7 you can't imagine the heaps of trash and heaps of stink. (Of course, time your trip right at the end of the day and snag deals like 10 kiwis for 1.50Euros, and the stink is less than you think).

The next day, from a blank, flat slate, it rises all over again from the pavement. This is one of those places that you can't experience in many parts of the world.

www.albertcuypmarkt.nl
Albert Cuypstraat, Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 201 8800
Google map: bit.ly/u1lhTR

* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
Google map: bit.ly/pO3GJS

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On Monday mornings there is a great flea market called Noordermarket which is fantastic for second hand retro clothing.

There is a general market on Saturdays on Lindengracht (parallel to Noordermarkt) selling everything from the mundane to the exotic and on Monday mornings the market specialises in cheap and cheerful materials.
Both are great places to mingle with the locals.

It's at the top end of Prinsengracht.

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Set in the Museum Quarter, the restaurant is only a stone's throw from the city's most popular museums and makes an ideal dinnertime stop. It is also fairly reasonably priced in what is otherwise a rather pricey area. The service was friendly, personal and relaxed. More importantly, the food was divine. Good quality, carefully cooked - relaxed dining as it should be on holiday.

Willemsparkweg 6, Museum Quarter
Tel: 020 662 62 06

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Full of character, situated in the trendy Jordaan area. Excellent Dutch apple cake, and a wonderful array of interesting lunchtime snacks with healthy options. Very reasonably priced as well. Sit outside on the canal and watch the world go by.

www.cafethijssen.nl/
Brouwersgracht 107, 1015 GD Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31(0)20 6238994
Google map: bit.ly/lJQBuN

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One of the best organic farmer's markets I've ever been to. Amazing cheese, bread, vegetable stalls, even a stall selling all sorts of mushrooms in season (bought some chanterelles and a black truffle last time). Smoked mozzarellas, huge focaccias, stunning veg - a truly superb market. 9am - 4pm Saturdays (the rest of the week it's a flea market).

Noordermarkt is in the shadow of Noorderkerk, about 10 minutes' walk from Centraal Station, on the edge of the Jordaan district.

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A restaurant of character and intrigue. Food like your Dutch granny made for you and served promptly and effectively. The liver and onions had just run out on the specials board as we arrived, so we settled for braised beef, giant meatball, saute pots, cauli and green beans (you select your veg from the specials board). Apple puree, rhubarb and rice pudding custard, rounded off the meal. All in the company of locals (mostly over 70). All great value for £22 with 2 bottles of beer and an apple sap. Only open of an evening though.

1e Helmerstratt, near Leidseplein and parallel to Overtoom. Tram stops on line 5 and 1 nearby

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Great meat feast and happy friendly service.

Reguliersdwarsstraat 57, 1017 BK Amsterdam, 020 626 50 80

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Just off the route of the #2 tram lie a number of interesting restaurants, notably, Le 4 Stagioni, a former butcher's shop, with antique tiles portraying the four seasons - le 4 stagioni.

- Palma, Johannes Verhulststraat 104, www.restaurant-palma.nl/do.php?lg=eng
- Oud-Zuid, Johannes Verhulststraat 64, www.restaurantoudzuid.nl
- Le 4 Stagioni, Johannes Verhulststraat 32, www.le4stagioni.nl
- Pulpo, Willemsparkweg 87, www.restaurant-pulpo.nl/index.php?pag=diner

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Yes, I know that Kilimanjaro is in Tanzania, not Ethiopia, but this little eatery specialises in Ethiopian-style dishes - and you can hold the predictable jokes too.

There's a limited but great-value repertoire here, and on an empty stomach the all-in get-your-hands-dirty dishes are to die for. If there's a group of you, order a variety of mains (all served on a stodgy bed of pancakes) and you can pull off a massive dinner for under 15 Euros per head.

Rapenburgerplein 6
+31 20 6223485
Bus no.22 from Centraal Station

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In Amsterdam, the former city glasshouse has been restored and turned into the light-filled, airy De Kas restaurant, with smaller glasshouses around the main room used to grow herbs and vegetables. Book for dinner in high summer and start with a glass of champagne flavoured with a basil leaf, followed by delicious, seasonal food like confit duck, grilled fish, fresh salads and tiny jellies made from fresh berries. They serve one daily, five course menu so all you need to do is book a table, turn up and relax - neatly avoiding both menu dilemmas and dinner envy.

Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3
1097 DE
www.restaurantdekas.nl/4menu_eng.php

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Eat smoked gerring with pickled cucumber in a roll.

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Fan of Gregorian chants ? Each Sunday from September to June there are Gregorian Vespers sung by the monks at St Nicholas Church, just 100 yards from Grand Central Station.

The service starts at 5pm, is open to all and free to attend. Having filled the soul, an easy two-minute stroll will take you to the Bird cafe on Zeedijk 77. Why is this tiny Thai snack bar always frantically busy ? Sit down and try the food. Then you'll understand.

www.bma.amsterdam.nl/adam/uk/groot/nicolaas.html

www.thai-bird.nl/

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Foodie tip: visit hospitable Amsterdam in May, when restaurants will offer the succulent white asparagus you can never find in the UK.

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