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This is a great little gem of a place that might be the only one its kind in the world. It has taken the boutique hotel concept and turned it inside out - with the design and coolness factor turned up high. The 'hotel' moniker is misleading; it has but one room. It's a very stylish and beautiful room, mind you. The rest of the place consists of an art space, a design and a 'product' shop full of interesting items for the home, a beauty/skin care boutique, a clothing shop, a cafe, and a small interior garden. Confused? That's normal. But just drop in and you will feel that it all somehow makes sense. The cafe in particular is a great spot to eat and re-charge during a day of sight-seeing.
www.hoteldroog.com/
Staalstraat 7B, 1011 JJ Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 523 5059
Google map: bit.ly/17Hy2Nl
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
You've emerged, blinking like a newborn, from the perilously touristic Damrak street which took you from Amsterdam Central Station to Dam Square. You are hungry and grouchy from a cramped discount airline flight, or maybe you just have the munchies since you stopped along the way at a coffeeshop. Either way, you're low on funds but not keen to try the gross tourist haunts you've seen so far.
Go west, young (wo)man, to Grillroom Sefa (or Sefa Grill-room, or... who knows? They don't even have a website). Sefa has a host of Middle Eastern dishes to take out or eat there, all from 5 to 10 Euros. Fresh, tasty, and served with uncharacteristic (for Amsterdam) friendliness, you can grab a shoarma, a doner, or kebab. Good-sized meals too (the 5 EUR Broodje Doner is all I usually need for the day).
Located at Westermarkt 25, it is only a few blocks from Dam Square, directly across from Westermarkt church, within 100 meters of the Anne Frank house and closer still to a canal where you can dangle your feet over the side and chill out with your meal. They're open until the wee hours as well. Better Sefa than sorry! (Sorry!).
Westermarkt 25, Amsterdam, Noord-Holland
+31(0)20 7739212
Google map: bit.ly/13ej6qp
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
Psst. You. Yes you standing there in Dam Square, map in hand, wondering where to eat and not eager to sit down at the dozens of lousy tourist trap spots nearby. Over here. Down this non-descript street not much wider than an alley. Right off Dam Square, about 150 metres. It's Cafe van Kerkwijk.
It's surprising to find such a great, affordable, off-the-beaten path place so close to such a beaten path. My wife and I discovered it quite by accident; I've been in the city for years now and didn't even notice this street until last month.
There are no menus here - your server will come over and list the day's options. And then you'll be treated to a great homemade meal in a cozy environment - I'd call it comfort food but that might imply it is too basic. All the choices are interesting and they vary, from meat dishes to vegetarian options, sandwiches to full meals to great desserts and coffee. The at-home feel is enhanced by the two sisters who own it, one in the kitchen and the other on the floor.
It is busy - often packed with locals, which is a good sign in any city - and you can't make reservations. But wait a few minutes at the small bar and you will be rewarded, day or night.
www.caferestaurantvankerkwijk.nl/eng/11.html
Nes 41, 1012 KC Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 620 3316
Google map: bit.ly/XZWcfU
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
A New York style beer bar in the heart of Amsterdam.
Just around the corner from Dam square is an American style beer bar with a whopping 30 beers on tap (unheard of in Europe, but common in many speciality bars in the States) and over 100 in bottles, the Temple specialises in US ales (and I don't mean Budweiser or Coors) but also has a good selection of UK, Dutch and Belgian beers.
On my visit (November 2012) they had all three Westvleteren Trappist beers in stock (some of the rarest and reportedly best beers in the world) and I was able to try all for the first time (an ambition of mine for several years), not sure if these are permanently available or if I just got lucky with my visit but many of the American beers are also particularly rare (Three Floyds, Stone etc) and Brewdog beers (from the UK) appear to be popular here.
If you are a beer lover visiting Amsterdam then this is a must, for the true connoisseur maybe even worth a special holiday.
www.beertemple.nl
Nieuwezijds voorburgwal 250, 1012RR
Amsterdam
+31 (020) 62 714 27
Google map: bit.ly/TD3rKU
Many visitors to Amsterdam don't realise how small the city really is. The open countryside really is only minutes away by bicycle and you can be home again in time for tea!
Hire bicycles at any of the reasonably priced hire shops in the city centre. I'd go for the 'obviously a tourist' bikes as local people will give you a bit more room on the cycle paths. Simply make your to the Hermitage (close to the Waterlooplein Flea Market) on the Amstel and cross over the famous Skinny bridge opposite. Now carry on cycling south. Eventually you will find yourself riding in a green open area. Just follow the river and you will pass by beautiful chocolate box houses and delightful windmills.
Stop off for an ice cream and a cold beer at the ancient town of Oude Amstel. It is also home to Beth Haim, the first Jewish cemetery in the Netherlands which is absolutely fascinating to visit too. It dates back to 1614.
Cross over the bridge and cycling back home along the other side the Amstel. It’s just as picturesque and considerably quieter along the road. You will be back home in no time at all.
River Amstel, Amsterdam
Moeders is an excellent little eatery/restaurant located on the Rozengracht, not far form the Anne Frank House Museum in the centre of the city's beautiful Canal Belt district. What makes this place different is the decor. You will find wall upon wall packed with photos of customers' mothers. You are of course encouraged to bring along a photo of your own mum to add to their collection. High tea and cakes is served on charmingly mis-matched crockery and cutlery and you can also treat yourself to some authentic stodgy Dutch cuisine here. Bring your mother on her birthday and they will have a prize in store for her. Book online for a table to avoid disappointment in such cases.
www.moeders.com/
Rozengracht 251, 1016 SX Amsterdam
+31(0)20 6267957
Google map: bit.ly/Q70liJ
Excellent food cooked by real chefs in a small and intimate atmosphere. The menu is not huge but the quality is really good and we had a really enjoyable evening meal. It's not the cheapest but it's great value when you consider the quality of the ingredients, the innovative dishes and excellent presentation.
www.restaurantspelt.nl
Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 5A, 1017 DB Amsterdam
+31 (0)20 420 70 22
Google map: bit.ly/UPe4g7
Amsterdam has a well-oiled (and downright oily) network of cheap hotels geared towards the weekend warrior from the UK, France, Germany, etc. These are places that serve as mere drop-off points for your backpack and as way stations for trips to the bathroom and a quick shower, where your fellow guests might include a mouse or two and various arthropods.
The Toren is not one these places. Located on the Keizersgracht canal in the heart of the canal ring, it is a luxurious oasis of a hotel, dripping with class and coolness. It’s pricey, as you’d expect from a four-star design hotel, but for good reason - the staff is first-rate (good service itself being something of a luxury in Amsterdam), the bar/restaurant is perfect, and the rooms are clean, cosy, and hard to leave on those days when the rain ceaselessly pelts the canal outside your window.
Even if you aren’t staying here, the small lounge is worth a visit during the day, when you want a break from the tourist hordes.. And at night you can slip into what feels like a movie setting, what with the candles going and hushed conversations happening on the couches and lush chairs. The only downside is that you might not ever want to leave.
www.thetoren.nl
Keizersgracht 164, 1015 CZ Amsterdam
+31 (0)20 622 60 33
Google map: bit.ly/OkxYLZ
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
Tucked away in a corner of the Max Euwe Plaza is a fascinating free museum, unique in the chess world, with a vast archive where you can play a game with the hosts while drinking coffee. Dr Euwe was Holland’s greatest player and a member of the Dutch Resistance. A recently donated chess board unearthed in a German attic depicts the white pieces as a strong heavily armed World War Two German army while the weaker black pieces are armed with mere hand grenades. Carved into the frame of the board are the names in chronological order of the conquered nations. Interestingly, the last name to be engraved is England. A short tram journey away is the ‘flea market’ in the old Jewish quarter which is not far from the Verzetsmuseum (Dutch Resistance Museum) where a chess set, handmade secretly in a safe house, is on display but this time the pieces show a different view of the war. The white pieces wear the soft caps of the Dutch Resistance, the black pieces the helmets of the invading army. The chilled October air on the canals serves to heighten the poignancy of these two museums.
www.maxeuwe.nl/index.php/english/museum
Max Euweplein 30a, 1017 MB Amsterdam
+31 20 6257017
www.verzetsmuseum.org/
Plantage Kerklaan 61-A, 1018 CX Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 620 2535
Google map: bit.ly/VUAA4X
If you're looking for a true Dutch feeling, Amsterdam can be tough - it does the bikes and canals to perfection, of course, but beyond that the tourist masses and the sheer mix of people from around the world (177 nationalities call Amsterdam home) can leave you wondering what being in real Holland actually feels like.
I would suggest hopping on a bike for a day trip (or even half a day - the pull of the evening's charms in Amsterdam may prove too strong) and heading down the Amstel river. Within minutes of leaving the center, along the road and cycling pathway known as the Amsteldijk, you'll suddenly yourself cycling along the high grasses and postcard-perfect banks of the Amstel. Halfway to the city of Oude Kerk, a very nice place in its own right, you will pass a huge windmill house, then a sculpture of Rembrandt, and then suddenly at the Kleine Kalfje (little calf.)
This very Dutch spot is only 20-30 minutes by bike from Amsterdam's Centraal Station and offers a feeling of really being in Holland. The restaurant itself is cozy and inviting, but the terrace that sits right on the water is the real gem. Boats slip past just meters away, and the glass surrounding this extended patio keeps you sheltered from the country's windy ways. Cyclists and joggers zip past on the other side, and it doesn't take more than a few sips of cappuccino, wine, or beer to imagine yourself moving here.
www.restaurantkleinkalfje.nl
Amsteldijk-Noord 355, 1083 AB Amsterdam
+31(0)20 644 53 38
Google map: bit.ly/TCVWjl
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
If you are heading to Amsterdam in August, be prepared for a) plenty of festivals and b) limited co-operation from the weather.
So on a dry, warmish night, you might want to head to one of the more unique fests known as Pluk de Nacht (loosely translated as "Seize the Night"). It's an open-air film festival that appears just a stone's throw from Centraal Station, arising somewhat magically from a patch of unremarkable grass called the Stenen Hoofd. Nobody knows this name and online maps don't provide much help, so it's best to walk or bike west of Centraal along the water and you'll see it within minutes.
It's the kind of low-frills, high-fun that Amsterdam seems to do very well. You're in for loads of people who are all in a good mood - because if you are all there it means it isn't raining - with home-brought food and beverages (a selection of food and drinks is for sale too). Oh, and you'll see some critically acclaimed international movies in English (or subtitled). The view over the water isn't too shabby either.
Arriving 45 minutes before nightfall last year (about 10:15pm is when it became dark), the crowds were massive and we were shoehorned in to a less-than-optimal spot though. So if you're feeling Plukky, arrive extra early, snag a beach chair close to the screen or spread a blanket out under the stars.
This year's version runs from August 22 - September 1
www.plukdenacht.nl/index.php?21
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
No trail to follow, no signposts marking your way and once you've set off there is no way back. If not one of the best hikes in Europe, this is definitely an experience of a lifetime: join a guided mud walk from the mainland to one of the off shore islands in the north of the Netherlands. Challenged by the upcoming tide, you wade through the mud and cross hip deep watercourses making you realise you are actually walking on the bottom of the sea. When you’re surrounded only by the sound of the wind and the sea birds it is not hard to see why the Wadden Sea was inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List.
A little better on the food side than De Koffie Salon, with a very fine coffee in its own right, is Anne & Max. The feel here is less retro and artistic than the Koffie Salon and perhaps more generic, but you still feel the ambience (gezelligheid, in Dutch) of Amsterdam when sitting by the window or at the big brown tables upstairs or downstairs. The food selection, with breakfast, lunch, even high tea on the menu, is quite nice and reasonable. You'll find them in Haarlem and Alkmaar as well. The Amsterdam location is well-placed just a block from the "bottom" of Vondelpark, away from the tourist hordes.
www.annemax.nl/
Zijlstraat 68 zw, 2011 TP Haarlem
+31 (0)23 7074535
Google map: bit.ly/Kw4FAh
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
While I may not be a total coffee connoisseur, I've downed some grounds. And this is the best coffee I've ever had. The creamy cappuccino is like a holiday in your mouth. The regular coffee is smooth and just strong enough to power you up for an afternoon on the bike. Sipping a latte in front of the rain-dappled stained glass window will have you pondering the good choices you've made in life to get you to this place at this moment. The snacks are decent, with supple croissants and some nice cakes. But you are here for the coffee.
www.dekoffiesalon.nl/
Utrechtsestraat 130, Amsterdam
+31 (0)20 3304314
Google map: bit.ly/LiATkF
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
So you're on vacation. You've decided to leave your old self behind for those few days abroad, and try something new, maybe even out of character. And you read about these peculiar Dutch people who have none of the hang-ups associated with being naked that you and your people have, so you are tempted to really shed your skin.
I would suggest there are far worse places to take the plunge than Spa Zuiver located in the south of Amsterdam, an easy 15-20 minute bike ride (bus, car, or cab does the trick as well) from the city center on the edge of a large wooded area called the Amsterdamse Bos.
A boss is hardly what you feel like when you experience - early - the shock of disrobing next to members of the opposite sex in the posh changing rooms. You can hardly get your fluffy robe on fast enough, in fact. Since you've come this far, though, you keep on going. You've spent a cool 35 Euros to get in, after all. Bear in mind, you can't wear your bathing suit - it is actually forbidden. (Though rumour has it - in Dutch - that Tuesdays is optional for bathing wear; best to call or email them for more info on this).
And once you step into the exceptionally well-designed sauna, pool, steam room, wellness area, relaxation beds (water beds!), restaurant, all framed by huge windows overlooking an outdoor pool and garden, with more saunas yet at the far end. This place is the most luxurious and biggest of the saunas you'll find in Amsterdam.
Enter the "special" sauna (in Dutch, opgieting). Common in Scandinavian saunas too, a sauna man creates an experience by waving a towel around the room, pouring ice chips on the rocks (and on the sauna people), and in our man Ado's case, cracking jokes while wearing a sarong. He was hilarious, and helped to ease any tension one might have about sitting nude in a room thigh-to-thigh with dozens of strangers.
The room was jammed, as the special sauna is only on schedule four times per day. The mood in the room was jovial, and not a stitch of clothing was to be seen. At the intermission, Ado led us outside into the 0-degree weather, where we stood steaming and chatting while a table of orange slices was awaiting us. Incredibly funny, unusual, and yet somehow utterly normal.
The rest of the afternoon was spent in various steams and saunas, as well as reading a book in the lounge chairs upstairs.
A summary:
Vibe: You will see some very attractive people here, wearing nothing more than a smile. Of course, you can't gawk - the Dutch don't, or maybe they are better at hiding it. The mix when I attended was around 70% female to 30% male, an excellent ratio IMHO.
Plenty of not-so-beautiful as well though, so no need to feel intimidated. It's like the real world - you'll look better than many, not as good as some. And when you want to cover up, just head to the restaurant or the relaxations beds, where a robe is mandatory.
Space: Very big - even on the busiest day, you have plenty of room.
Cost: Quite high, and with robe and towels costing extra, plus some food, you could easily spend 60-70 Euros here. Well worth the price of trying on a new side of yourself, however. They do have new hourly rates starting at under 10 Euros.
Overall, Spa Zuiver is worth spending a day-long visit for sure, and if you only have a few hours it is a great way to expel those toxins you might have picked up earlier in the trip. It's a first-class facility.
www.spazuiver.nl/
Koenenkade 8 (Amsterdam Forest)
+31 20 301 0710
Google map: bit.ly/GCQ3B6
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
Perfectly situated at the intersection of local and tourist, Cafe van Zuylen is quintessentially Amsterdam. It’s located on a corner overlooking a canal in the city’s Jordaan area.
If you want to get away from the cringe-inducing ugliness of Rokin, the main tourist drag that leads straight to and from Amsterdam’s Central Station, this is the perfect spot. It’s only five minutes away by foot from Rokin and the almost equally garish Dam Square, but it’s as authentic and charming a place as you’ll find in the city.
Full of natural light, natural wood furniture, and naturally a fat house cat, van Zuylen is a great spot to fire up the laptop (free Wi-Fi) and waste away the afternoon with cheap beer and friendly service (a rarity in the city). Not to mention the decent Dutch snacks and pub-ish fare and a very decent cappucino and apple tart (There’s also a restaurant attached - haven’t eaten there yet - for a more intimate setting). And on a nice day, the seating spills over to a bench outside and a sizable collection of tables overlooking a canal.
Better yet, open up your map on the table and plot your next stop, or open the travel journal and watch the people going by - your first entry will likely start with “Maybe I should just move here...” It’s like a movie about Amsterdam, with more than enough interesting faces going by to offset the occasional hipster twirling his sad mustache while looking for jobs online.
How else to put it? It’s a cosy, unassuming, cool place. And it's one of those unique spots that is always busy, but somehow there’s always a spot for you.
www.cafevanzuylen.nl/
Torensteeg 4-8, 1012 TH Amsterdam
+31(0)20 639 10 55
Google map: bit.ly/xCUXte
Hotel in the centre of town and next to the train station. Dead easy to find as the Jaarsbeursplein is even signposted from the station! But only five minutes away from the Oudge Gracht area with lots of bars and restaurants - again through the station.
www.nh-hotels.com/
Jaarbeursplein, 24, 3521AR Utrecht
+31 30 2977977
Google map: bit.ly/y6ziiU
Free wifi for 30 mins if you order a coffee
Go through Schiphol Plaza and take the escalator towards the parking lot...Sheraton is signposted
It's that time of year again, when the days darken early and Dutch parents still don't put hats or gloves on their kids.
It's also time once again for the International Documentary Film Festival, the best 10 days for movie geeks to sneak some peeks at the world's best un-Hollywood films.
I'm now on my third year of this cinematic feast, and as a seasoned vet I am all over this like Herman Cain on an assistant.
Want to make the most of the festival? Here's the lowdown:
- Get on the mailing list for the festival; they are not spammy, with only a few emails sent throughout the year, and you will get ample warned well in advance of the ticket sales and the overall program.
- On Day 1 of the kaartverkoop, go online and buy tickets for all your favourites. I bought 5 tickets this year, and it wasn't easy whittling down the choices. But waiting until the day before or day is risky. Although last-minute no-shows do happen; if you really want to see something, head to the cinema about 30 minutes before the show and talk to a ticket-taker or wait for a seller to start hawking.
- Bring your smartphone to the show - no need to line up to pick up pre-bought tickets this year, as the organizers have gone all smartphone-friendly.
- If you have any questions, be patient. The volunteers range widely from friendly and on the ball to friendly and way off the ball. It happens every year - some of them seem genuinely surprised to be there.
The lineup for each annual version is much the same - many films with a very strong social message, some with serious stomach-churning violence and sadness; some with beauty as their main feature; and others that are light and a bit wacky. Virtually all of them look great.
This year, I've got tickets for:
Cave of Forgotten Dreams
Just came back from this; it's a fascinating movie about the discovery of cave drawings in France dating back 32,000 years, directed and narrated by Werner Herzog - in 3D no less. This movie expands your brain, largely (I think) by making us realize how short a time we're really here and how close we are to messing it up.
Desert Riders
The very sad story of camel jockeys (yes, actual camel jockeys) in the UAE.
Happiness... a Promised Land
A look at a simple question posed to various people on a hike: What makes you happy? (These days? An awesome fiancee, dogs, Guinness, playing squash, and movie festivals. I suspect this movie will delve a little deeper).
POM Wonderful presents: The Greatest Movie Ever Sold
Morgan Spurlock, the guy from Super-Size Me, casts a light on the prevalence and absurdity of advertising and insidious product placement. Which seems like a good time to mention that this blog is currently sponsored by Lithuanian garlic, Simon Levelt Indian Chai tea, Etos cough syrup and Hema's Ultra Soft nose tissues.
The Last Dogs of Winter
The Canadian Eskimo Dog is the only dog that can survive a temperature of minus-60 degrees. Only a few hundred are left. We'll see if it's chilling or heart-warming.
So a full agenda of movie-viewing is on tap, and I am overly, geekily, excited about it all. Some other ones that I may even try to see are Four Horsemen ("What is created by humans, can be changed by humans" - check out the trailer) and G Spotting: A Story of Pleasure and Promise (oddly, the identical working title of the first movie listed above). Just hope I find the damn place.
www.idfa.nl/industry.aspx
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
An Italian breadshop, very tasteful in both design and baking. Fresh veggies, pretty cakes, firm breads, delicious cookies, they have it all. Did I mention it looks great?
It is on the Nieuwmarkt, near the central station. Walk down the famous Zeedijk and you will reach it.
Is this your business?