There are some great cafes for seriously good coffee in Napier, better in my opinion than the much hyped and overpriced Auckland and Wellington. Too many to mention but Tannyson and Emmerson streets have many examples. Hawkes Bay is best known as a wine destination and there are also some great foods such as local Te Mata Cheeses, Esk Valley Asparagus, farmed abalone, peach and apple orchards - the list goes on. The Farmers Market - saturday at Blackbarn vineyard and sunday at Hastings - are good places to start.
I stayed just out of Napier in the vineyard region of Esk Valley. Great meal on friday night at nearby Crab Farm winery. Very laid back atmosphere with a monstrous log fire, later the guitars came out! And the food was outstanding.

Esk Valley lodge 15 mins north of Napier just past the airport www.eskvalleylodge.co.nz
Map tinyurl.com/eskvalley
www.crabfarmwinery.co.nz/catalog/

Food Hawkes bay guide www.foodhawkesbay.co.nz/index.cfm/our_activities/food_trail

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Right on Napier's sea front, Ocean Spa is a great place to spend a relaxing couple of hours. With the sea on one side and some of the city's best Art Deco buildings on the other, there are lots of distractions for swimmers doing their daily laps or for those simply taking it all in while having a hot soak. It's also an ideal spot to watch the sunset on a summer evening. If you've worked up a hunger after your swim, the onsite cafe does tasty snack food and good coffee.

42 Marine Parade, Napier, New Zealand
Phone +64 6 835 8553

Google map: tinyurl.com/2g79yg9

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Just north of Napier (the so called Art Deco capital of the world) is the Esk Valley. This is a beautiful valley covered with pine trees on its steep sides, quite distinct to the rolling river plains on which most of Napier is built. Where the river meets the Pacific there is excellent surf casting and further up the river, trout abound. Hunters shoot deer and pigs in the forest and garden lovers visit the renowned Trelinnoe Park that has been compared to Bodnant.

But it is the food and wine that make this small region special. There are many vineyards and you can sample the local red (mostly Merlot and Cabernet) and white (Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc)wines. The local cafes offer great coffee and cakes and in season you can buy a kilo of just picked asparagus for under £2. If you are staying at the nearby Esk Valley Lodge you might get fresh asparagus with a new laid poached egg for dinner or even (if you ask) for breakfast!

8km north of Napier airport on SH2 to Taupo.
www.eskvalleylodge.co.nz

Google map: tinyurl.com/yjctswb

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This is a stunning place with a huge garden surrounded by vineyards. The rooms are large, clean and well decorated. We were welcomed by the host with nibbles and wine like friends and not like paying guests. They provided us with all kind of information even for our way back home. I especially loved the breakfast with all kinds of hot and cold food, freshly picked out of the garden. It was a fantastic stay and we will definitely come back.

www.eskvalleylodge.co.nz

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This place was hard to find, at least later at night and in my state of mind, but it is a clean, stylish and a welcoming hostel with very reasonable rates. Since he seems to screen his guests a bit, it's also quiet and better for the more mature budget traveller which is exactly what I needed. I can't thank them enough for a real bed, comforter, and my two best nights of sleep in weeks.

www.wallysbackpackers.co.nz/

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Off the beaten backpacker trail, this truly unique, extremely well-equipped backpacker accommodation is located on the idyllic East Cape, just a ten-minute drive to art deco Napier, Hastings or sleepy Havelock North.

With only 11 beds, it is important to book ahead but well worth a few days' stay to relax and enjoy the surrounding award-winning vineyards.

Those who enjoy cycling and wine (or even just a good day out) should book themselves on the 'on yer bike' wine tour for a unique and entertaining wine tasting experience (bookable through the hostel). The relaxed owners with a small, toy, farm holding and soon-to-be vineyard are a pleasure.

Birdwatchers, or those who enjoy another good day out should try Gannet Beach Adventures to get a background to the area, excellent views and a chance to see around 17,000 gannets.

www.bbh.co.nz/ for the hostel
www.gannets.com/index.html

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