It may be hidden up the far end of Cuba Street but don't let that put you off. Walk that little bit further because this place has some fantastic coffee and food especially their iced chocolates and savoury muffins. It has a cool kitsch interior as well as outdoor seating so is a great place to hang out and relax. Check out the great local clothing stores on the way down Cuba Street too, especially Frutti and Carly Harris.

www.fidelscafe.com

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A pretty bay on the other side of the city harbour with cafes, beaches, and some lovely walks. Climb up through bush and look across at Wellington city. It's accessible by bus or car. Makes a nice day out if you want to get away from the city.

While you're there, you can carry on to the next bay, Eastbourne, where you can walk to the lighthouse and watch the ferries on their way to and from the South Island.

www.gw.govt.nz/story2919.cfm

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I stumbled across a little secret the first time I visited Wellington; Mount Kaukau.

Most visitors opt for the look-out point that is Mount Victoria but the locals will tell you that Mt Kaukau is the summit you really should visit, and how true I have found that to be!

Kaukau is on the western side of Wellington harbour near the pretty districts of Johnsonville and Khandallah. The summit is 445 metres above sea level and is the most visible point in the Wellington area.

It provides stunning views of the city, harbour and the Rimutaka and Tararua Ranges.

Every time I go back to Wellington I make a point of walking up Kaukau. I have also at different times run up it and biked down it - it's fantastic for mountain bikers!

The view is inspiring; the green rolling hills of Crofton Down, looking down into Wellington city and harbour, or looking across the Cook Strait to the snow-capped Mt. Tapuaeoenuku on the Inward Kaikoura Ranges in the South Island, Mt Kaukau demands solitude and silence to fully appreciate its glory.

On a sunny day the view is endless and majestic. When the storms roll into Wellington from across the Tasman Sea, the power of the wind and rain makes Mt Kaukau not for the fainthearted. Yet if anything, it adds to the mystique and grandeur of the place.

Go there and you won’t be disappointed; I never am whenever I go back.

www.wellington.govt.nz/services/resbelt/recreation/recreation.html

Train: Johnsonville Line train from Wellington Station to either Simla Crescent, Box Hill or Khandallah.

Buses: From Courtenay Place or Lambton Quay in Wellington. Services 43, 44, 45 to Khandallah or 53 to Johnsonville West.

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If you're after some wilderness, visit Kaitoke Regional Park, which is about 40 minutes drive from the city centre. Beautiful scenery, native bush, walks, river to swim in. Divine!

Within the city itself is Karori Wildlife Sanctuary. There are plenty of walks, and it's a great opportunity to see some of the rarer birds (and other wildlife) of New Zealand in a natural setting (there are no cages. The birds come and go as they please).

Kaitoke Regional Park: www.gw.govt.nz/story1371.cfm?

Karori Wildlife Sanctuary: www.sanctuary.org.nz/

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Highly recommended is Rasa (Malaysian) on Cuba Street. Take your own bottle of wine (BYO) for a cheap, but delicious dinner. Also, the Matterhorn where you can listen to local bands while eating delicious food and drinking cocktails. It's a funky place (but popular!).

Matterhorn:
www.matterhorn.co.nz/splash_flash.html

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Walk from Oriental Bay up to the lookout for spectacular views over the whole city and the coast.

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Started in Nov 2003, Susan McLeary's walking food tours of Wellington, Greytown and Martinborough are a tasty experience, whether you're a gourmet or just a foodie on tour.

On the Wellington Walking Gourmet tour, we sampled minced lamb kaftas and had a behind-the-scenes look at the kitchens in Meat on Tory, and took a choc taste test at Schoc Chocolate Therapy (the Earl Grey with dark choc was a pleasant surprise).

We tasted freshly-roasted flat white coffees at Mojo Coffee Cartel - coffee is big business in Wellington - enjoyed the variety of produce at Moore Wilson Fresh's food hall, and rounded the four-hour tour off with an excellent lunch at one of Wellington's best eateries, Logan-Brown.

Excellent value at $210 (just £70) per head.

Susan McLeary, Zest Food Tours, PO Box 6030, Wellington 6141, New Zealand, 0064 4 801 9198, www.zestfoodtours.co.nz

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