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La Sombra is an eco lodge up in the Bosawas, three hours drive north of Matagalpa. It is a three storey wooden lodge with views from the hammock on the balcony over the mist covered forest. $30 per person per day gives three home cooked meals, twice daily guided hikes over the property's beautiful coffee plantation and forest and waterfalls. The lodge produces its own coffee which we were given a bag of as we left. The people who run it are lovely (no English spoken) and the place is relaxed with no phone, no TV and just a few board games to play - fantastic. The drive up goes along potholed roads through fantastic forests up to La Dalia from Matagalpa for three hours and then the drive then gets really gets hard going. Wonderful place
www.lasombraecolodge.com
A 177 km de Managua, Tuma - La Dalia, Matagalpa, Nicaragua
(505)455 3732
Do the Masaya 'combo' tour which takes in Masaya Volcano, Masaya Artisans Market, Laguna de Apoyo and the pottery making town of San Juan de Oriente.
Contact Maria Jose masayatours@gmail.com
She's from Masaya and speaks English.
Las Isletas - you can go down to the lake in a $2 taxi ride from Granada, get on one of the boats for a tour - you don't need a guide.
Another option is to see them on a kayak tour, lots of people in Granada do this tour.
Mombacho Volcano has a beautiful cloud forest at the top, well worth seeing for the wildlife and flower and fauna but take a sweater.
When you first get into Granada there are horses and carriages in the central square which will take you on a quick tour round the town for about $5 plus tips.
This gorgeous restaurant is the best in Granada. Beautiful house and garden create a warm romantic ambiance. Jardin d'Orion is a restaurant very near the old town (parque central.)
The food is great - best food we had in five weeks in Central America. Very fresh food.
The restaurant had a very nice wine selection.
This is a excellent restaurant at moderate price. You must go to jardin d'Orion if you are visiting Granda
Calle El Caimito, 1 Cuadra al Lago
505-84-29-64-94
www.jardindorion.com/
A private luxury eco-resort in a private bay next to San Juan del Sur, Morgan's Rock is the perfect romantic hotel in Nicaragua. My partner and I stayed here in October; we initially booked for two nights, and it was so amazing we stayed an extra two.
Reached by travelling several miles up a dirt road, only accessible to people who already have a reservation, and with only 15 private bungalows within 1,800 hectares of private reserve including a private beach and mangrove tributary, this is always going to be a quiet, exclusive and totally romantic resort.
The bungalows are built into the cliff side, with totally private and unbroken views of the bay. Luxurious and private, and only reachable by walking over a 100m suspension bridge (we loved having to cross this; it made the bungalows seem even more remote), each bungalow is built out of sustainable wood and has an amazing amount of romantic individual features, including king size swinging day beds on the terrace. None are overlooked by any of the others, and each has private outdoor terraces, as well as impressive unique design features. You can look out and watch the sun set or rise over the pacific ocean, before enjoying the day or night at this amazing resort.
Get fresh organic coffee delivered to your room to drink when you wake up, sitting on the terrace overlooking the bay. Fill the day on the beach in one of the private lounging areas; each with a hammock and sun loungers whilst staff from the hotel bring you fresh juices and snacks, indulge in some of the relaxing activities (like kayaking through the mangroves or walking through the forests) or complete relax yourself at the massage area, before filling up on fresh, organic 3 course meals, made entirely of food produced on the estate.
The resort is owned by a French family who also own a sustainable furniture company in Managua; the forest within the grounds provide the wood for their furniture, many of which are designed by the same designer who designed the hotel. The family invests heavily in eco-touristry, including investing in the local community via employment and training, so whilst indulging yourself and your partner, you are also investing in Nicaragua, and in sustainable forestry and tourism.
An added bonus is that in the off season the place is quiet; my partner and I ended up having the place to ourselves for two days. In many places this would seem strange, but at Morgan's Rock, it was an amazing experience that totally indulged us and totally left us loved up!
www.morgansrock.com
Nicaragua (505) 2254-7989
Playa Ocotal, San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua
Google map: tinyurl.com/y8rrbq2
Rosa's is a restaurant owned and run by Rosa. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The food is cooked fresh when ordered and there is a wide variety of vegetarian food, which I found limited elsewhere on the island.
On the path at the turn off between Casa Iguana and Grace's Place.
Set in a gorgeous colonial building next to Granada's market, you will get rooms that may be a bit dark, but in beautiful surroundings. They provide a kitchen, but most of all it is a safe place.
The couple that owns this place, and knows every customer, will be on their rocking chairs, with their radio. Somehow in a city where other places have armed guards, their presence is a better protection.
Calle Atravesada in front of the market.
While you are in Granada and if you are tired of Gallo Pinot, the ever present rice and beans, maybe you should try Pususas from Don Ramon.
It is a typical dish from Salvador that Don Ramon and his wife dish out from a grill located in the main street, Calle Atravesada, one and a half blocks up from the market.
At around 50 pence these pancakes can be served with a traditional filling of cheese, frijoles, or chicharon, or more modern ones such as spinach.
If you ask nicely they will explain to you how to make it, from scratch, and you will make your own one if they don't have many customers waiting.
Two of Nicaragua’s finest natural features are within easy reach of the travellers hub of Granada. Volcan Masaya National Park is home to two volcanoes with five craters, one of which is still active and emits dramatic but noxious clouds of steam. The remaining craters provide safe walking and bird watching territory and grant amazing views over the park. Laguna Apoyo, meaning ‘healthy water’, is a beautiful and quiet spot for swimming and walks on the surrounding paths. We had lunch at one of the simple local restaurants on the shoreline to a soundtrack of howler monkeys eerie calls.
Volcan Masaya is 20k north of Granada and Laguna Apoyo just 4k north, both along the main road to Managua. If possible hire a taxi as these are both rather remote. You can take a bus headed to Managua and look out for the signs at the turn offs but be prepared for a wait for a local bus or a long walk.
We took one look at the restaurant prices in central Masaya and were heading back to the hotel when we found Mariskeria, a permanent kiosk in the Parque octobre 17. Their ceviche was A1 and the prawns a plancha were the best we'd eaten since being in Spain in the 70s. The proprietor let us try a concha negra for free as we'd never eaten it before... more like a clam than an oyster, but we'll include them on our menu next time we visit Masaya.
Parque de octobre 17
Masaya
A spotlessly clean, reasonably priced hotel in the town centre. Nothing is too much trouble for the owners or staff.
It is well sited for exploration of northern Nicaragua by bus and, being in town, means you are not hostage to some over priced so called eco lodge or hotel miles from anywhere and can take full advantage of local restaurants and food stands.
Great little town with superb Sandinista memorial.
Frente Supermercado Matagalpa
Avenida Central
Matagalpa
tel 00 505 772 3140
San Juan is the most popular beach destination in Nicaragua,but the nearby beaches of Majagual, Gigante and La Flor are much nicer.
Base yourself in San Juan del Sur and visit these beaches for the day.
Photos below:
nicaragua.typepad.com/photos/nicaragua_beaches/playa-majagual-near-san-juan-del-sur-nicaragua.html
nicaragua.typepad.com/photos/nicaragua_beaches/playagiganteaugust2008.html
This restaurant is a few blocks off the main tourist trail and as such attracts a fair few locals as well as visitors. It's owned by a guy from Alabama and does the finest ribs I've ever tasted.
They were so good, we went back three times.
It also has live music at weekends.
Calle Consulado, 2 1/2 blocks west of Parque Central, Granada, Nicaragua
Managua despite its reputation is probably the safest city in Nicaragua.
While it lacks the attractions of colonial towns like Granada, it still has enough to keep any visitor interested for 24 hours.
A group of small beautiful islands on the lake that is an easy day trip from Granada.
You can even stay overnight on some of them.
Between Managua and Granada, Masaya is an overlooked town for visitors.
If you're there in Nov/Dec the town has almost daily festivals, the best is San Jeronimo. The rest of the year you can visit a volcano, arts market, baseball stadium and the enjoy the view from nearby Catarina which is one of the best in Nicaragua.
Viva Spanish School is a gay-owned Spanish language school in the capital of Nicaragua. The school was muy buena and the owner has all of the scoop on gay activities in Nicaragua.
www.vivaspanishschool.com
505-270-2339
On the NW Pacific coast Cosiguina is an extinct volcano with high biodiversity.
Chinandega Department, Nicaragua
A hostel close to the centre of Granada, the Bearded Monkey is friendly and lively without being dominated by hard-partying backpackers.
Arranged around a central courtyard lit with twinkling lights, the (public) bar sells local beers, decent food and its own compilation CDs, as well as running DVD nights from the owner's great selection, for a small donation.
Check the noticeboard for good value Spanish lessons by local teachers (Anjelica is recommended) and trips to the nearby Lago de Apoyo, where the Bearded Monkey has a cabin, the Monkey Hut, with terraces running down to the lake - an excellent swimming spot.
Avenida 14 de Septiembre, opposite the bomberos (fire station).
A locally produced, high-quality rum sold almost everywhere in Nicaragua.
It's more like whiskey in taste and comes aged up to 21 years or directly from the still.
Definitely worth buying at Duty Free as it's still hard to find outside Nicaragua and much more expensive.
Any large shop or supermarket in Nicaragua.
Still wonderfully remote border river between Nicaragua and Costa Rica connecting vast freshwater Lake Nicaragua to Atlantic Ocean. A long slow river journey through the jungle. Place to overnight is at the Eco Hotel in tranquil El Castillo about a third of the way to the Atlantic; no cars, only river traffic. They organise jungle trips and used to serve great tropical lunches.
Fly to San Carlos from Managua and pick up boat down river from there to El Castillo.
Alternatively a long uncomfortable overland journey by bus on un made up road round northern tip of the lake via Jinotepe - or cross the lake on a ferry from Granada to San Carlos
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