We took one look at the restaurant prices in central Masaya and were heading back to the hotel when we found Mariskeria, a permanent kiosk in the Parque octobre 17. Their ceviche was A1 and the prawns a plancha were the best we'd eaten since being in Spain in the 70s. The proprietor let us try a concha negra for free as we'd never eaten it before... more like a clam than an oyster, but we'll include them on our menu next time we visit Masaya.
Parque de octobre 17
Masaya
A spotlessly clean, reasonably priced hotel in the town centre. Nothing is too much trouble for the owners or staff.
It is well sited for exploration of northern Nicaragua by bus and, being in town, means you are not hostage to some over priced so called eco lodge or hotel miles from anywhere and can take full advantage of local restaurants and food stands.
Great little town with superb Sandinista memorial.
Frente Supermercado Matagalpa
Avenida Central
Matagalpa
tel 00 505 772 3140
San Juan is the most popular beach destination in Nicaragua,but the nearby beaches of Majagual, Gigante and La Flor are much nicer.
Base yourself in San Juan del Sur and visit these beaches for the day.
Photos below:
nicaragua.typepad.com/photos/nicaragua_beaches/playa-majagual-near-san-juan-del-sur-nicaragua.html
nicaragua.typepad.com/photos/nicaragua_beaches/playagiganteaugust2008.html
This restaurant is a few blocks off the main tourist trail and as such attracts a fair few locals as well as visitors. It's owned by a guy from Alabama and does the finest ribs I've ever tasted.
They were so good, we went back three times.
It also has live music at weekends.
Calle Consulado, 2 1/2 blocks west of Parque Central, Granada, Nicaragua
Managua despite its reputation is probably the safest city in Nicaragua.
While it lacks the attractions of colonial towns like Granada, it still has enough to keep any visitor interested for 24 hours.
A group of small beautiful islands on the lake that is an easy day trip from Granada.
You can even stay overnight on some of them.
Between Managua and Granada, Masaya is an overlooked town for visitors.
If you're there in Nov/Dec the town has almost daily festivals, the best is San Jeronimo. The rest of the year you can visit a volcano, arts market, baseball stadium and the enjoy the view from nearby Catarina which is one of the best in Nicaragua.
Viva Spanish School is a gay-owned Spanish language school in the capital of Nicaragua. The school was muy buena and the owner has all of the scoop on gay activities in Nicaragua.
www.vivaspanishschool.com
505-270-2339
On the NW Pacific coast Cosiguina is an extinct volcano with high biodiversity.
Chinandega Department, Nicaragua
A hostel close to the centre of Granada, the Bearded Monkey is friendly and lively without being dominated by hard-partying backpackers.
Arranged around a central courtyard lit with twinkling lights, the (public) bar sells local beers, decent food and its own compilation CDs, as well as running DVD nights from the owner's great selection, for a small donation.
Check the noticeboard for good value Spanish lessons by local teachers (Anjelica is recommended) and trips to the nearby Lago de Apoyo, where the Bearded Monkey has a cabin, the Monkey Hut, with terraces running down to the lake - an excellent swimming spot.
Avenida 14 de Septiembre, opposite the bomberos (fire station).
A locally produced, high-quality rum sold almost everywhere in Nicaragua.
It's more like whiskey in taste and comes aged up to 21 years or directly from the still.
Definitely worth buying at Duty Free as it's still hard to find outside Nicaragua and much more expensive.
Any large shop or supermarket in Nicaragua.
Still wonderfully remote border river between Nicaragua and Costa Rica connecting vast freshwater Lake Nicaragua to Atlantic Ocean. A long slow river journey through the jungle. Place to overnight is at the Eco Hotel in tranquil El Castillo about a third of the way to the Atlantic; no cars, only river traffic. They organise jungle trips and used to serve great tropical lunches.
Fly to San Carlos from Managua and pick up boat down river from there to El Castillo.
Alternatively a long uncomfortable overland journey by bus on un made up road round northern tip of the lake via Jinotepe - or cross the lake on a ferry from Granada to San Carlos
It's a lovely tin roofed village stuck to the base of the best preserved colonial fort about a third way down the river San Juan. You can organise boat trips into the surrounding rain forest and there is an attractive (but very simple) eco-hotel in the village. Solentiname is a group of islands in the lake, near San Carlos. Fabulous painters and artisans and glorious setting.
It's a bit like Trick or Treating, except based around the Immaculate Conception of not Jesus, but his mother Maria. The whole city and country folk descend on Leon twice a year 14th August and 7th December going form house to house shouting 'Que Causa Tanta Alegria?' (What causes so much happiness?) and the people in their houses, ready with prezzies shout back 'La Concepcion de Maria' (The conception of Maria). After 10s of 1000s of people marching streaming the streets the whole town and nearby beaches break out into parties, dancing the night away ... It has to be seen and lived at least once in your lifetime!
León - one hour north of the capital, Managua.
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
Search Been there