I have been on the Norwegian Coastal Cruises twice and the first time I saw the Lights. They were wonderful to watch as we sailed silently between the snow-clad islands. Try a smaller boat as I enjoyed it more being on my own and they do trips with no single supplement.
Another of Trondheim’s claims to fame is that it is home to Norway’s national museum of musical instruments. The museum contains examples of both traditional ‘home grown’ instruments and international examples dating back to the 17th century. For those not interested in the museum, it is surrounded by 35 acres of very pleasant gardens from which you can also enjoy a panorama of the Trondheim fjord.
Lade Allé – about 3km north-east of the city centre; tel: 73 870 280;
Transport: Bus 3 and 4 from the centre of Trondheim;
www.ringve.com/english/start.html
Built in 1070, this is Scandinavia’s largest medieval building. Not just big, it’s quite beautiful too with a particularly impressive exterior west wall which features ground to roof statues of kings and religious characters. Not surprisingly, it’s a prominent landmark and if you approach the city by boat it stands out amidst the modern surroundings.
Inside you’ll see very formally dressed resident guides giving solemn and reverential talks to the usual tourist groups, but it’s good just to wander around the large, atmospheric space and watch the locals trying to ignore them.
Kongsgårdsgata
www.nidarosdomen.no/english/
This is mainly an outdoor museum, though there is an exhibition of local history and artefacts from the last 150 years or so. Outside, over a fairly large area, they’ve brought regional traditional buildings mostly dating back to the 18th century and constructed a ‘village’ containing houses and farm buildings.
It also features a tiny 12th century stave church – I had a very memorable experience here. I was on a guided tour of the open air buildings and our guide, a small blonde woman dressed in a typical peasant costume, took us into this small building which has no windows, so when the door shuts it’s pitch black. She stood in front of us and lit a candle, held it up to her face and then sung a hymn in Latin, as would have been done in this church hundreds of years ago to the ordinary churchgoers. She sung it very beautifully, and though we had no idea what the words meant, it was one of the most moving experiences I’ve ever had on a guided tour, so if you visit, ask for Elin and get her to give you her performance.
Sverresborg Allé
www.sverresborg.no/english/
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
Search Been there
