For decades, Oman's former ruler Said Bin Taimur kept its borders tightly closed to western influence and visitors. Now that the country is starting to embrace tourism, this is a blessing, because its Arabian heritage remains largely intact. Whereas other Middle Eastern cities have succumbed to showy shopping malls, Oman's capital, Muscat, has largely kept its character.

That's not to say the capital has shunned new developments entirely. It now boasts a range of top-notch hotels, including the sumptious Al Bustan Palace InterContinental and the chic, minimalist Chedi. The greatest architectural statement, however, has been reserved for the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, the largest mosque in the world. A truly stunning construction, it took 600 workers eight years to complete; 12 million man hours were spent simply weaving the carpet in the main prayer hall.

The place to be on a sultry evening in Muscat is strolling along the Corniche, beside the Arabian Sea. As the light dims, stallholders set out their wares in the maze of passages inland of the main road. Here, you can buy sweet-selling frankincense by the kilo, get measured up for a dish-dasha (The traditional costume worn by Omani men), or shop for reasonably priced silver souvenirs. The Omani people ae both gentle and hospitable, although neither prevents them from driving a hard bargain in the souk.