When in Bocas del Toro you've got to stop by Toro Loco bar and restaurant. It's an American-owned bar that offers free Wifi, darts, delicious bar food including burgers, quesadillas, chicken fingers and wings and chili - all $6 and under. They also have five televisions around the bar that carry sports all day long! Free popcorn for everyone and happy hour is everyday from 3-6pm. A great place in town to have a cold beer and catch up with old friends or make new ones.

Located on Central Avenue, just behind the park in the middle of town.

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The lodge is situated on Wichub-Wala island about five minutes' boat trip from El Porvenir airport. It is a rustic, two-storey, bamboo structure and they feed you three meals a day and provide all transport. The price (c$40-50 per night per person) includes a trip for most of the day to the remoter islands for swimming, snokelling etc and then, on the return leg, a sidevisit to a more populated island to see more of the Kuna islanders flogging their locally made molas. The beaches were superb and the lodge was fine - it's not luxury, but there is a cold shower, running water and the hosts are very friendly. So a bit like camping but under bamboo. During my stay the other guests tended to be the more adventurous types of traveller and spanned all ages and nationalities. Recommended for a two-three day visit, especially as there are no mosquitoes here.

My hotel in Panama City made the reservation on my behalf but we went through three different phone numbers. Try 507-2275308 (the host speaks Spanish) Fax: 507-2252568.
Address: Kuna Niskua Lodge, Wichub-Wala, Porvenir, Kuna Yala, Apdo 280 Zona 1, Panama. For flights, www.airpanama.com although another airline does fly from Albrook airport as well.

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Getting around Panama City can be tricky at certain times of the day. There are several bus routes that essentially go along the city but the queues for these can be enormous during the rush hour (as many as 100 people). In addition, the buses tend to go to places you don't really want to visit.

The only other alternative is to travel by taxi and while these are numerous during busy periods taxi drivers are picky over where they take you: I have frequently spent between 20 minutes to more than an hour trying to flag one from Ancon to the El Cangrejo area. They also overcharge, especially if your grasp of Spanish is weak, and will not issue receipts so I suggest (a) agree a fare before you get in, and (b) if you need receipts, buy a receipt book from Office Depot or the Rey supermarkets. Taxis hovering outside big hotels will charge at least two to three times the 'normal rate' but they will provide receipts (usually). In summary, just be patient!

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Stay at La Coralina. The owner is most hospitable, there's a baby monkey onsite, it's home to a fun deck, and the views can't be beat.

Book a catamaran tour with Catamaran Tours: the captain will take good care of you, the snorkeling is excellent, and you'll most likely spot dolphins.

Book Erwin for a personal tour: Erwin has the best stories in the world. Plus he knows the islands and their inhabitants inside and out.

La Coralina: www.lacoralina.com
Catamaran Tours: www.bocassailing.com
Erwin: www.heliconiidae.com
Full Panama report, with photos, at www.travelmusings.net

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Stay at the Coffee Estate Inn: the owners are a little difficult, but they run a top-notch operation (fresh coffee, homemade breads, flower arrangements, amazing view, etc).

Eat at the Panamonte Inn in the fireplace room: nice ambience, the people watching is decent, and they serve great food for the money.

Drive to Cerro Punto and walk the trails in La Amistad National Park.

Coffee Estate Inn: www.coffeeestateinn.com
Panamonte Inn and Spa: www.panamonte.com
Full trip report, with photos, at www.travelmusings.net

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We enjoyed dining at Manolo Caracol (casual, locally owned) and Astrid y Gaston (more formal, originated in Peru).

As for places to see, I recommend the Baha'i temple, walking in Soberania National Park, and visiting Miraflores Locks.

Astrid y Gaston: www.astridygaston.com
Bahai Organization: www.bahai.org
Miraflores locks: www.pancanal.com
Full trip report, with photos at www.travelmusings.net

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La Estancia is a hotel in Panama City. It's not amazing, but it's a good value, located away from downtown (a good thing), close to the national airport, the service is good, and there's a travel agency onsite.

www.bedandbreakfastpanama.com
Panama trip report, with photos, at www.travelmusings.net

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Canopy Lodge is located in Soberania National Park, a 30-minute drive from Panama City. It's a former radar/observation tower turned into a hotel catering to birdwatchers. I recommend it because it's an opportunity to stay in a tower in the middle of the rainforest, and the views are amazing. I'm not into birdwatching, but I understand that this place is the ne plus ultra for those who are into it.

www.canopytower.com
Full Panama trip report, with photos, at www.travelmusings.net

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