Great guides, friendly and informative at very reasonable prices.

Chachapoyas, Main Square

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... For the adventurous, I advise taking a small bus (weekly departures) from Cajamarca to Celendin, then Celendin to Leymebamba and Leymebamba to Chachapoyas.

It's soooo worth it for the scenery. You travel in a small bus on unsurfaced single track roads, hugging close to impossibly steep mountainsides, passing over mountain peaks, through jungles and over rivers.

Not advisable in the wet season due to landslides.

Stay in Leymebamba for a few days and take in the museum with hundreds of mummies from the nearby Laguna del Condor.

For the even more adventurous take a horse trek up to the laguna. It's an Indiana Jones style adventure. Nearly impossible in rainy season.

There are many other fascinating archaeological remains in the area.

Most are easier to access on tours from Chachapoyas than directly from Leymebamba.

Hostal "Laguna de los Condores" in Leymebmba arranges day trips, tours and horse hire and the staff (family run) have excellent local knowledge.

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Kuelap is the remains of a fortified town built over the course of 600 years at an altitude of 3,000m. A lot of the original brickwork remains and it is fascinating to wander gently through these remains, especially after the massed hordes who visit Machu Picchu.

From Chiclayo, travel to Chacapoyas region and then you'll need to catch a tour going to the ruins. Well worth it.
www.kuelap.org/

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Fascinating tombs have been found, belonging to lords of important pre-Inca cultures. The royal tomb of the Lord of Sipan was only discovered in 1987. The lord was buried with his companions, dog and treasure. The finds of gold, turquoise and lapis lazuli from the Moche culture rival those of Tutankhamum in Egypt.

Two excellent museums have been built to house these beautiful artifacts. The best at Lambayeque - 10 minutes drive from Chiclayo - holds the Lord Sipan collection and the nearby town of Ferrenafe has a smaller museum with finds from the Sican Culture.

Internal flights from Lima to Chiclayo take about an hour.

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