... For the adventurous, I advise taking a small bus (weekly departures) from Cajamarca to Celendin, then Celendin to Leymebamba and Leymebamba to Chachapoyas.

It's soooo worth it for the scenery. You travel in a small bus on unsurfaced single track roads, hugging close to impossibly steep mountainsides, passing over mountain peaks, through jungles and over rivers.

Not advisable in the wet season due to landslides.

Stay in Leymebamba for a few days and take in the museum with hundreds of mummies from the nearby Laguna del Condor.

For the even more adventurous take a horse trek up to the laguna. It's an Indiana Jones style adventure. Nearly impossible in rainy season.

There are many other fascinating archaeological remains in the area.

Most are easier to access on tours from Chachapoyas than directly from Leymebamba.

Hostal "Laguna de los Condores" in Leymebmba arranges day trips, tours and horse hire and the staff (family run) have excellent local knowledge.

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