Great alternative trek to Machu Picchu and it takes in it all. Just book when you get there, you can usually go next day. Oh, and please don't take any notice of the Guardian's advertised £3.95 price (do they earn commision from this agent?). It costs around £120 pounds, all meals included with camping.

Any agent in Plaza de Armas

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The classic four-day trek, the Inca Trail, to Machu Picchu now has an adventurous alternative. From Cuzco, I went across the scary Abra Malaga pass by local transport to the attractive warm jungle village of Santa Teresa and visited hot warm springs (very few foreign visitors at the present moment) and stayed with a local family in a rustic adobe lodge where fresh coffee beans were roasted in front of my eyes and papaya picked off the trees for morning breakfast!

The journey from Cusco to the jungle on to Machu Picchu with the local Quechua speaking guide involves one night staying by the hot springs in tents, one night with his family (a great experience!), a horse trek, some trekking and the final descent to Aguas Calientes at the foot of Machu Picchu. In the morning, rise early before the other travellers and take in this famous lost Inca citadel.

A more varied experience overall, following a different route to the majority of people and great to get to stay with a local family, even for one night!

Santa Teresa is about a fivehour ride from Cuzco. I travelled with the volunteering and alternative adventure travel organisation, Inka Magik, which works with local schools as well as the Cuzco guide and rustic lodge.

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I recommend taking a pair of flip flops or sandals to wear after your day of trekking - it's far more pleasant than keeping your sweaty boots on! Additionally, take more money than you think you'll need, as there is water and beer to be bought en route, and you'll want to be generous with your tips for the porters and guides.

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One of many companies providing guided tours and equipment for the Inca trail to Machu Picchu. The guides were brilliant - helpful, friendly, knowledgable and introduced us to our porters.

The chef and the food were first class - better than in any resaurant in Peru.

enigmaperu.com

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The famous Inca trail to Machu Picchu is both expensive and difficult to book beforehand. Rather than taking the train to Aguas Calientes it's possible walk an alternative route. Take an eight-hour bus to Santa Maria and hire the services of local guides Lorenzo or Johan. They'll take you to Santa Teresa, stopping at beautiful hot springs on the way. On day two you can walk to Aguas Calientes. After visiting Machu Picchu it's possible to take a one-way train back to Cuzco or walk back to Santa Teresa and then catch a bus to Santa Maria before returning on the bus to Cuzco. This route requires more time, but is very friendly on the wallet.

lorenzocahuana@hotmail.com; johancc3@hotmail.com; Both are in Santa Maria

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